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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Robstrongo

    Robstrongo Senior member

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    Yeah, I was thinking it was too short, but at the same time was trying to somehow rationalize it in my head instead of facing the obvious, hence the post. Probably going to just chalk this one up as a loss and throw it up on the B/S forum.
     
  2. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Hello,

    I've posted pics of this jacket before. I believe it's a pretty good fit on the chest and shoulders, but there's something that doesn't look right with the balance of the jacket as a whole. I firmly believe the waist is too high; not just the button stance, but also the (slight, I know) suppression. The result is that the jacket is giving me a pear shape, when I'm really more of an hourglass shape. I've lost a few more pounds and there's just a little bit of room for taking in - so what should I ask my tailor to do? Is it possible to reshape the jacket and move the waist to a lower position without making it look bad with the current button stance?

    The jacket is fused and has a soft construction - do you believe the bottom button is high enough to be able to turn this into a 3-roll-2?

    Note that the pants are being worn as high as they will go - that's navel level. I believe the picture angle is making them look like they're sitting at my hips, but they are actually at my waist.

    Thanks in advance!

    [​IMG]

    EDIT: I have photoshopped the picture above and added wider lapels, the amount of waist suppression I think I can afford, and lowered the button stance. Does this look better? Anything you would add, so I know what to look for when I start getting MTM/bespoke?

    Modified pic in the spoiler below...


    [​IMG]




    Thank you!
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2012
  4. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Cross posted from WAYWRN
    Here is the new Isaia base S navy suit I just got. Nothing has been altered, and I still need to have it cleaned and pressed. The inseam is a 35, so I know I the pants are too long. Thoughts?

    I am wearing a white BB ESF shirt and a chocolate brown grenadine, along with peal suede shoes.

    Please note that i have a large chest (44ish) and a 36 inch waist, and that I have a very large ass.

    Also, does anyone know why the bottom of the suit coat billows out like I have a large stomach? Is that just because I have a large chest?

    Thank you guys for the thoughts/criticism.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    I'd have the pants made slightly thinner.
     
  6. ZombieFlynn

    ZombieFlynn Active Member

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    Just a quick question for the tailors. I have a slightly low right shoulder (roughly 1" discrepancy), which throws off the fit of jackets made for symmetrical torsos. Most people wouldn't notice, but I do.
    Is it possible to alter or tailor OTR jackets to compensate for this? Possibly by adding padding on the right shoulder, or reducing the padding on the left?
     
  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1" low is more than a slightly low shoulder. Basic fix is to add a pad to the low side. Adjust the sleeve length after the pad is added, not before. Another alternative is to find a tailor that would remove the sleeve and recut the shoulder for your low side. Remove padding from the left side only if it is necessary. If you r right shoulder is low by 1" it is likely your right hip is higher than your left.
     
  8. theom-

    theom- Senior member

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    What's a reasonable amount to pay for these alterations?

    shorten jacket sleeve, non working buttons, lined
    shorten jacket length .5"
    bring in the waist
     
  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    according to their website, they will re cut new garments free. if you send the suit back include your photos.
    draw arrows on the photos to point out the areas of your concerns as to where it is too tight and too loose.
    the jacket is about an inch short.
    tell them you have a right low shoulder and by how much.
    there is a stylefourm tutorial as to how you can do this.
    the vest is about 2' too short.
     
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes the jacket is too short, and no remedy for that.
    and very little if any to let out in the seat and the thigh.
     
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i have a problem it looks like there is about 8 inches difference between the coats waist and the trouser waist.
    we are told that the trousers are set at your waist, that you cant change.
    the waist is just above your hip bones, regardless where your navel is at.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2012
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Maybe they are a bit below the waist, but not by much, perhaps an inch or less; they can't go any higher because of the rise. But even if I wear higher rise pants, the jacket looks off. I believe the jacket is indeed very high waisted. Is that fixable or would it look bad with the current button stance? (since that can't be changed obviously...)

    Thank you!
     
  13. wannabe

    wannabe Senior member

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    I have used two tailors, so from experience:

    -shorten jacket sleeve: $20 for both sleeves/$30 for both sleeves.
    -shorten jacket length: $30/$50
    -bring in the waist: $15/$25.

    It honestly varies.
     
  14. neo84

    neo84 New Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  15. BigCheese

    BigCheese Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] I was given this jacket and thought it fit okay. What would you guys suggest I do for alterations?
     

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