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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. worth

    worth Well-Known Member

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    I went to Brooks Brothers to try on a Fitzgerald. I'm a small guy (5'7" 140lbs), I tried on a 36S. It's the smallest they had in the store and it looks like 36 is the smallest they have on their website as well. Only got one decent pic unfortunately, but are there any opinions?

    [​IMG]
     


  2. velvel87

    velvel87 Senior member

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    Maybe you should consider the Regent or the Milano fit. This jacket seems to be fairly big by the waist, but the shoulders look pretty good. The sleeve s are also a little short - which is a no biggy. You should find out if they have the slimmer models before having to take in the Fitzgerald - IMO
     


  3. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Hi everybody,

    I bought a new 3 piece suit but am unsure if it's a 3 button or 3 roll 2.5. Can you help me out on this?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  4. worth

    worth Well-Known Member

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    They didn't have the Milano in a 36 unfortunatley, I asked about it when I was there. I didn't ask about the Regent, but I just checked on their website and the smallest they have is 38. So it looks I may be stuck with the Fitzgerald.

    Thanks for the feedback.
     


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I've grown to dislike the Fitzgerald a lot. It's not nearly as slim as many Italian suits. And relatively low armholes and a lot of material under the armpits. The single vent also sucks.

    I'd recommend looking at 36R's in Isaia, etc. on sites like eHaberdasher. I guess the Milano might be better too.
     


  6. taz20075

    taz20075 Member

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    I ordered a couple Indochino "Essential" suits and got the first one in a few days ago.
    [​IMG][​IMG]



    I'm not sure how to describe what's wrong with the jacket, but it doesn't sit well. Its like it has wings hidden in the armpits.
    [​IMG]

    Is it the supression of the waist that ruins the flow of the back and causes the weird areas in the front by my armpits? Are these fixable through a tailor? I can still send it back for a remake. What do I ask for?

    Here is the full album (trying to keep the post from hogging all the screen real estate): http://imgur.com/a/W3iLk/all#0

    The pants are slightly baggy and a touch long but those are easy tailoring fixes (though I could send it back for that as well).


    My measurements (per the Indochino site): Ht: 5'8", Wt: 185 (I did have my measurements taken by a local tailor)
    Jacket (in): Length: 29.25 Chest: 41.75 Stomach: 38 Hips: 44 Shoulder: 19.25 Sleeve: 23.75 Bicep: 14 Wrist: 8.75
    Pants (in): Length: 39.25 Waist: 36.5 Crotch: 27.75 Hips: 43.5 Thigh: 26 Knee: 17.75

    Thanks for the help!
     


  7. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Looks like it has a hard roll to the top button, or even above the top button, I don't see how that could possibly be confused for roll-2.5.
     


  8. JG000

    JG000 Senior member

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    From what I can see, that suit fits you beautifully.

    I'm no expert, and I'm sure others will pick it apart - but overall it looks exponentially better than what I typically see here. And I'm awfully critical most of the time.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2012


  9. JG000

    JG000 Senior member

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    Scratch that, I was referring to the Purple Label suit. I misread & jumbled up your thread a little bit. You could narrow the pants slightly, and everything else seems to be spot-on.

    To your point, the first suit in question could be tweaked a little more. Still though, not an offensively poor fit by any stretch.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2012


  10. velvel87

    velvel87 Senior member

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  11. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    What are your (the tailors) thoughts on pleats on shirts to add comfort/movement? If yes, which kind?
     


  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    its a great looking plaid and i love it,but but....
    front ,look at the horizontal lines of the plaid. see how they rise from the sides to peak at the center.
    that tells you that the front is too short at the top, for you. sorry no way to lengthen that.
    also note the shortness is also making the lower fronts overlap instead of a curved opening.
    see how the vertical plaid lines close in on the lower fronts.
    there is more but i think this would be a killer.

    for more info go to tutorials and click on "balance explained".
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2012


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    suit 1
    the sleeves dont look too full ti me.
    in narrowing sleeves be careful. do too much and the elbows get tight.
    also since the narrowing stops at the armhole. too much makes the sleeves very slim
    and the upper part remains large. its like a ladies old fashion leg of mutton sleeve.

    suit 2
    have the trousers been altered previously? it looks like the creases swing outward.
     


  14. matt1985

    matt1985 Senior member

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    Thank you for your reply, I just got back from camping so haven't had a chance to check back! When you say the sleeves need to be reduced, do you mean to make them more narrower? Or get them shortened? Sorry for the lack of understanding. Thanks for your suggestion so far!
     


  15. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the two front views show a nice shaping at the waist , the right sleeve to be shortened to match the left.
    the body length is good. the shoulder width, is it comfortable or does it feel too wide.
    the side view shows the waist and seat need to come in a bit.
    the back view is distorted, like a different garment entirely. every thing is reversed. is it the camera angle?
     


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