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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
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    Mar 16, 2006
    Waist is overworked. Release the waist suppression to make the back part over the hips lay more natural. Shape the front parts only to look tapered at the waist.

    You have collar roll issue because of your prominent shoulder blades. Left blade more prominent than right and right low shoulder
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  2. electrichink

    electrichink Member

    Messages:
    5
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    Oct 23, 2013
    Thanks Despos. I had the tailor pinch in the sides a bit, I guess they overdid it. I'll bring it back to them and have them release it to correct the problem.
     
  3. gummybear00

    gummybear00 New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2013
    Hi,

    I ordered a few made-to-measure shirts from offshore. I like the fit, but all of the shirts have a similar issue: the fabric bunches up in the back near the shoulder arm holes.

    I've worn other shirts, some of them much larger/looser and none of them seem to bunch up like this. I'm not sure if it's the company's shirt construction or maybe I'm giving them wrong measurements. I ordered the shirt relaxed in the chest so I can easily move my arms. I also told them to reduce the size of the arm bicep by an inch.

    What will get rid of the back shoulder bunching? Reduce the yolk by an inch? Reduce chest measurement? Add back side pleats?

    Link to gallery with all pictures. Please advise. Thank you!

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. jediknighttt

    jediknighttt Member

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    Aug 4, 2013
    sorry double post
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  5. jediknighttt

    jediknighttt Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 4, 2013
    Hi guys. Can someone tell me if my jacket is too short? If it is, is it still "acceptable"? (This is the best OTR I could find)


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  6. lukejackson

    lukejackson Senior member

    Messages:
    713
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    Jun 25, 2013
    [​IMG]

    Hey guys, not a great foto but how do the shoulders look on this? Only siZe left, deep discount. Try sat maybe less than half an inch off my shoulder.
     
  7. lukejackson

    lukejackson Senior member

    Messages:
    713
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    Jun 25, 2013
  8. lukejackson

    lukejackson Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jun 25, 2013
    Cheers mate. I felt the same. Sleeves were actually too long though -- i rolled them up a bit to see what they would look like. Not working button holes so was just going to get the sleeves taken up. I like them at the length pictured.

    Agree on the shoulders though.
     
  9. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2013
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    The half back is way too small which means the coat is too small. You can ask your tailor to let it out but I doubt there is enough fabric left to let it out as much as you need. I can't tell if you truly have a collar roll or if it's puling across your back from being too tight. If you do have a collar roll your tailor can lower the collar and that will take care of that. You may have forward pitch shoulders which can also cause the problems you're having with this coat. If you feel a lot of pressure in the front of your shoulders points it's a good indication of forward pitch. You may be swayback which is causing the coat to hug the small of your back. I know I've said a lot but wanted to give you as much info as possible and it's hard to determine exactly whats wrong from pics. Good Luck
     
  10. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Sep 3, 2013
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    That's a pretty casual jacket...I think the shoulders are fine. There is not indentation below the point to point which would indicate it being too short. I also think the sleeves are fine where you have them...does the jacket feel snug in the overarm area? If is feels comfortable than the pt to pt is good
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2013
  11. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Sep 3, 2013
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    I'd say it's a little short but acceptable. If you're going for the skinny suit young mans suit look it might be even too long but if your going for a traditional look I'd say a little short but again I think it's ok to wear.
     
  12. shendo

    shendo Member

    Messages:
    17
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    Sep 9, 2013
    Hey all,

    This is a MTM suit I just got and wanted an opinion on the upper back area. There are horizontal wrinkles between the shoulder blades.They said that the wrinkles are caused by collar roll but I thought it was because the shoulders of the jacket are too small for me so the fabric is stretching.

    Would a collar tuck fix this? Or do the shoulders have to be let out?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 3, 2013
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    There is no collar roll. Looks like you have a low left shoulder which is causing the extra fabric under your left arm. Also needs more room in the half back. I think the shoulders or Point to Point is too short,,nothing you can do about that.
     
  14. blulegend

    blulegend New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Oct 26, 2013
    Hey. Noob here. Just got a "tailored" fit suit from black lapel. I feel like it's a bit too fashion forward for my taste. I usually prefer a slightly conservative look. What is the forum's opinion on fit? Is it too fitted?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. shendo

    shendo Member

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    Sep 9, 2013
    Thanks for confirming what I suspected, that it's not collar roll.

    Could you explain what you mean by "half back"?
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    These wrinkles are caused by your prominent shoulder blades. You do not need a wider shoulder or back. It is hard to be exact from one static photo and seeing only one back view. What I see is your left blade is a bit more prominent and you need more length at the neck point on the back on the left that the right. The blade area can be reduced on the left side. You need the shoulders opened and more fullness on the back shoulder basted in and some iron work over your shoulder blades. This puts more cloth over your shoulder blades without making the back actually bigger so the jacket doesn't become sloppy. Requires an excellent tailor. Half back is the width at the point where the back seam of the sleeve attaches to the jacket , across to the center back seam.
     
  17. lukejackson

    lukejackson Senior member

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    Cheers mate, ended up buying. What is point to point referring to if I may ask? Also, jacket did not feel too snug, felt good.
     
  18. Alexander

    Alexander Senior member

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    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Chile
    I hope this user doesn't get offended by using his picture but I have the same issue with the fit of my trousers

    Any solution?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2013
  19. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Feb 8, 2010
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    Home
    New jacket, pleas excuse the pants (I lost a bit of weight and considering getting the waist taken in as they currently droop down throughout the day). Any suggestions before going in this week for alterations?

    Front:
    [​IMG]

    Alt shot:
    [​IMG]

    Back:
    [​IMG]

    Alt. shot:
    [​IMG]

    Right side:
    [​IMG]

    Alt. shot:
    [​IMG]

    Left side:
    [​IMG]

    Alt. shot:
    [​IMG]
     
  20. shendo

    shendo Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 9, 2013
    Thanks for explaining half back, Despos.

    Other jackets don't have those wrinkles; the back is smooth. Would that mean it's the fabric or quality or cut of this particular jacket that's causing the wrinkles?
     

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