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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The sleeves are short in proportion to the total jacket length. Doesn't mean it's too long on you but this is the problem with OTR suits when it comes to managing the length proportions from the body of the jacket to the length of the sleeves.
    A similar thing happens with the pants where the rise is too high for a guy who has more torso than legs.
    All in all it looks alright but if you did decide to shorten it up to an inch, it would still look ok but then you risk messing with the over proportions fixed into the length of the jacket.
     
  2. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    The answer to this question could have to do with your posture or the way the trousers are cut or both. No one in this thread answering questions can do so without pictures.
     
  3. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    If you plan on actually wearing the coat over your suit, I'd size up. Custom overcoats are built with additional ease to accomodate wear over a suit IF that's the way the wearer chooses to wear it.
    If you get it the bigger version you can also have a tailor nip the sides/sleeves etc if it's a little too blousy. It's the safer bet.
     
  4. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    They look a little tight over the seat. Possibly need the back fork let out a bit, as well.
     
  5. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    [/QUOTE]
    Could be a pitch issue. Could be a not great sleeve pattern issue. Could be that they need to be hand pressed.
     
  6. Katt

    Katt Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, sounds reasonable, in the future i'll probably buy a shorter suit jacket and see how that fits me, and but the next full suit i'll probably try an MTM. Overall i'm happy with the napoli though, and i am fully aware that i don't have the body they make the sizes for :)
     
  7. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Thanks OTC, much appreciated!
     
  8. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    All materials/fabrics stretch a bit (some more than others) after several hours of wear, therefore your pants might drop. Consider getting your waist tightened by half and inch, if this is a concern.
     
  9. books and tweed

    books and tweed Senior member

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    Bay Area
    Hullo! This might be outside the purview of this thread, but I'm hoping to try out so MTM shirting companies soon and was wondering how you would describe my shoulders/body type in the additional information box to get the best fit. To add some context, I am 6'4'', 140 pounds, and have an absurd 7' wingspan. Excuse the backdrop - shared living with 2 other students has its drawbacks, but I wanted to give a full body shot in some tighter clothing for the clearest idea.
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    Last edited: Oct 18, 2013
  10. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Columbus, Ohio
    A few points you may want to pass on to the manufacturer

    1. Ask for a high collar in the front and the back as you have a long neck and you want to cover as much of it as you can.
    2. Looks like you have a normal slope to your shoulders. Usually someone you height has square shoulders so this might be of use to them.
    3. I'd go with a tapered shirt so ask them to add 5" to your chest, 4" to your shirt waist and 5" to your hips.
     
  11. jimanchower

    jimanchower Senior member

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    Sep 27, 2013
    Gents,

    I recently bought a sport coat from Suit Supply because the OTR fit is better than anything else I've tried so far from the likes of Banana Republic, J Crew, and Brooks Brothers. I'm fairly new to dressing well better and I don't exactly live in a part of the country known for its fashion sense, so I'd like to get some feedback on what I should ask of a tailor to enhance the fit of this jacket and really make it mine.

    The shoulders look good to my untrained eye, and the jacket collar sits well against my shirt collar. I like to show a little shirt cuff, so I think taking the sleeves up 1/4" - 1/2" is in order. These shirt sleeves are as short as I go and as-is they're basically even with the jacket sleeves. I feel like I could have it taken in a bit around the midsection, about in line with the top button, but I don't want to create an hourglass effect. Thoughts?

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (click for full size)

    Thanks for any feedback.
     
  12. Sean McKee

    Sean McKee Well-Known Member

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    Suggestions,

    I wouldn't take it in through the girth, it's pulling a little. If anything I would let the half girth out 1/2" or so.

    shorten sleeves 1/4" although it look like the right sleeve is a little longer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2013
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The pull on the front button is from your low right shoulder. It would work to take in the waist a bit but just to create a bit of suppression, not much. Sleeves are probably OK, try with other shirts before doing anything since you said this shirt has the shortest sleeves.
     
  14. jimanchower

    jimanchower Senior member

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    Thanks for the advice, fellas!
     
  15. renji

    renji Member

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    Thanks for the good advice, Despos! [​IMG]

    Here's the third fitting photo. Can anything be done to improve it?

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  16. hoodog

    hoodog Senior member

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    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Thanks for your kind help as always, OTC!

    So those are the only things that make the pants look a bit tight? This should be an easy alteration that most tailors could manage?
     
  17. electrichink

    electrichink Member

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    Oct 23, 2013
    Quick question from a new member (long time lurker) here. I have a single vent jacket that I was planning to wear to a wedding. This is the only single vent jacket I've ever owned so I'm not sure if this is normal. To me, the back seems to stick out a little too much, kind of looking like a bell shape. I dont have a huge ass so I thought that was kind of weird. Is this normal? If not, what can a tailor do to fix this? Sorry for the crappy pics and mess in the background, we just moved into a new place. Thanks for any and all help!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hard to say from your picture but from what can be seen it looks like the waist was suppressed too much and makes the seat kick out. A back view may reveal a different answer.
     
  19. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Apologies for the crappy cellphone pic

    So I just got a jacket from an online MTM operation that fits relatively well and would like feedback on the buttoning point. I feel it should be lower by an inch, but would like other opinions before I commit to my next order.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. electrichink

    electrichink Member

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    Oct 23, 2013
    Thanks for the replies, here is a shot of just the back. First picture the jacket is buttoned, second picture the jacket is not buttoned.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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