The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[gambit50]

If I may though it might be a bit of SF heresy....

I have seen that pic of Slewfoot. One thing to note is that his arms are not hanging straight down. They are bent a bit at the elbow and possibly(though maybe they hang there naturally)
or thus pushed out a bit and cover the shape of the bottom of the jacket so you cannot quite be sure how it ends. If there is another pic showing it, fine.
But from this one you cannot tell if the skirt comes down straight(as we both prefer or anyone with any sense would) or is creating the bell shape.
I see the angle that you speak of near the waist and while it is fine for me besides not knowing about the skirt, the front of the jacket is not looking proper around the top bottom. Due to the arm position?Could be but I cannot say from this photo and default is that there is an issue.

As for your pic, while the skirt is to the bottom of your thumb, considered low or 'not short', I think you would benefit from more length and more closed quarters. Or because it is a relatively high button stance for 2B could be a factor. You mention DB and the whole thing with those is they are, generally, longer even when the same overall 'style' as SB.

Also, if the style of sketch A/slewfoot goes awry, projecting a small chest and large hips is not becoming of a man. Child bearing hips are for women. Well, I don't prefer those on women either but nevertheless.

Since you have artistic skills, just draw in a bit more to your jacket on your photo. A tad on the quarters and the length and you will see. Finding a color to match closely should be easy enough to get a good idea of it.

What is ironic is that the issue you seem to care about is the same that I mentioned about all those fancy suits that are wrong for the wearer except in yours, it does not give an awful impression of your physique. But there is 'something' off.

 

[RDiaz]

Just to be clear, the second pic is not me, it's Vox - but that's the silhouette that I think doesn't work on me. My jacket is a bit longer and has a lower button stance. I have wide hips and narrow shoulders, but a rather wide chest for my height. To disguise those hips, I asked my latest MTM jacket to be cut roomier at the waist so there's less shape, but I still think there's something strange about its silhouette. Need to post pics when it comes back from the tailor (he's remaking the shoulders).

The goal would be to have B but with a roomier chest and extended shoulders so the hips don't look wider than the chest. For some reason, with the same hip width, (A) looks like "womanly" hips to me, but (B) looks like "manly" hips. And when hips are actually a bit wider than the chest, I find (B) much more flattering than (A).

Or maybe I'm just overthinking this too much. But really, I'd rather have a flattering silhouette than perfect, body-contouring fit.

 

[nautikal]



At least you seem to know to have the skirt of the jacket not flaring and to be near perpendicular to the ground. This is what I find the most the egregious of sins in many of the fawned over SF glitterati.
Proportions of the body must dictate some of the shape of the jacket. Features that exaggerate the worst points of one's physique makes no sense to me.

Just out of curiosity, how does one adjust the skirt of the jacket to achieve what you describe? Back length? Back waist suppression? Vent style/cut? My jackets often flare in the back due to a large seat and hollow lower back.

 

[gambit50]

Obviously, I agree with your intuition against pear shaped and the like.
And this is the problem I see with fitting the SF, Napoletano style that is prevalent.
A short jacket has less chance to inflect back downward to perpendicular(to the ground) and thus if your hips
are forcing it outward(the more so from more waist suppression) it does not get back on the proper path to the floor.
Pics of yourself will help clarify. I understand what you are trying to avoid and agree but if you are recutting the jacket with a roomier waist, the angle that you alluded to in the sketches is less of a big deal. Have you thought of a very strong, even roped, shoulder rather than just pure extension? Smart not to get the narrow, soft shouldered jacket but wondering if there was more than just a wider shoulder to shoulder measurement in your process.

 

[RDiaz]

My tailor measures the shoulders from the collar felt to the sleeve seam. He's just extended that measure 1cm compared to previous jackets. I've asked him to deconstruct the shoulders a little (leaving just some thin padding to avoid droopiness) because I like the slope on my shoulders and don't want to build them up. The jacket came with some serious padding from the factory. When he attaches the sleeves back he will do so with a slight roping (I asked him to and the sleeves were made a bit longer with that in mind).

All of this silhouette thing comes from the resulting jacket being perhaps way too roomy, and I was wondering if it was possible to slim it down like (B) rather than (A).

 

[gambit50]

Was it a RTW jacket being tailored? You mentioned factory so not sure if that was the tailor's or not.
Anyway, if the jacket is just swimming on you, it is a waste.
If I were to wear OTR jacket that is 'sack' style or merely not 'slim', 'fitted', whatever buzz word, it is hopeless.
The same jacket will look better on someone less fit who has an even barrel/cylindrical shape. Contours are the enemy.
Similar reasoning against the short jacket, uber fitted for all these blokes that don't realize they have zero in common with the models or even those indigenous people from which the style originated(well, sort of).
I enjoy more than one style of suit but some are more of a failure OTR than others though I have tried on a couple that would be doable in terms of tailoring. Well, the jacket, trousers, forget it unless they are willing to recut them to make the waist and seat right. You cannot just move it in 4 inches or 3 or 6 or whatever large number and think that works well.
Having a tailor who knows how to cut a certain style to fit different bodies is key. I don't expect a top SR house to do a Rubinacci or similar but I do expect them to make their own fit the client as fully best as possible.

 

[gambit50]



Just out of curiosity, how does one adjust the skirt of the jacket to achieve what you describe? Back length? Back waist suppression? Vent style/cut? My jackets often flare in the back due to a large seat and hollow lower back.

Again, I am no tailor or technical expert but at some point, if the jacket follows the back line of the body and this line is curved and the jacket is too short, it will flare. The 'style' then might dictate this because the skirt just has to be up to your wrists or whatever. Some people should not wear certain styles. Though nobody should wear some of these extremes in any style.
I do not know the hollowness of your back.If you dropped a string straight down from your upper back, how much distance separates it from your lower back at the largest differential? I have a big measurement there, myself, though ****** is not so large coming back out.Not a pancake job at all but not nearly back out to the line from the upper back. Perhaps yours is shaped differently. If I have suppression or tapering, here and there, it fits the style/body type combo. If you are shaped like a barrel or a pear or whatever, you cannot force that into a slim/suppressed/Neopolitan/short hole.

I hope the tailors chime in to give you technical advice or maybe there is some in this thread. But that is probably too much to look through. I am thinking of that task, myself.

 

[RDiaz]

 

 

[RDiaz]

 

 

[RDiaz]

It is a MTM jacket. I asked the tailor to make it roomier at the waist and hips but maybe we went overboard. will post pics next monday.
Actually, when I said "way too roomy", I should have said "a bit too roomy". It isn't too far off from what I wanted, but it could stand a slight reduction, specially at the hips.

 

[Ketawa]

I'm experiencing this pictured below in a pair of Brooks Brothers Regent fit trousers I purchased recently (ignore baggy shirt).






They're actually a bit full in the waist; they would fall down without a belt. The next size down is too tight and this size feels good through the thighs. Regardless, as mentioned in this thread it sounds like a tough fix. Should I just return the trousers and try another brand, or am I doomed to experience it for RTW cuts? My calves, while not huge, I think are much further back from my thighs, i.e. my legs aren't very straight up and down. Is it possible a tailor could fix this?

 

[mazdamx594]

Gentlemen,

I have been a long time lurker of this forum, but only now has it been worth while to post and get your professional advice as to some issues I have with a recent suit purchase. After reading many of your posts, I have come to value and respect the opinions of many of the members here and I have tried to avail myself of that experience when selecting a suit for my wedding. That being said, I have some concerns with the results of my handiwork, which I will leave toward the bottom of the post so as not to bias anyone (not that the issues aren't obvious). In any case, I would greatly appreciate any criticisms, no matter how harsh, with regard to fit of the suit. As I mentioned, the intended use is for my upcoming wedding, although it will continue to see use thereafter on a weekly basis for business. Thank you to everyone in advance, and I look forward to your thoughts!

Regards,
Chris










So! Now that you have had a chance to see the results, here are my complaints:

1. Pants are absurdly long... this will be promptly addressed.
2. Sleeves are too long, perhaps an 1/8 inch needs to come off.
3. Sleeve pitch seems ok from the top/front, but underneath there is some creasing.
4. Since my right shoulder is low, it is causing puckering on the back right side that seems to carry over into the front of the suit.
5. Needs to be taken in a hair in the chest, although I think the shoulder issue might remedy some of it.
6. Collar seems to sit fairly far back, such that it is not resting on my neck... not sure of the technical term for that one.

 

[Tony Stark]

Dear Tailors:

Just ordered my first shirt from Proper Cloth. Seems to fit okay - I am about to order additional shirts, so I am trying to fine-tune the sizing. There seems to be excess material in the back - how should I ask them to address that going forward? Any feedback/comments would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Shirt Dimensions:

* Presidential Spread Collar
* Collar Around: 16.00
* Sleeve Length: 33.00
* Yoke Width: 17.75
* Chest Width: 21.50
* Midsection Width: 18.50
* Shirt Length: 30.50
* Sleeve Width: 8.00
* Cuff Around: 8.75
* Bottom Width: 20.00
* Watch Allowance: None
* Shoulder Slope: Sloping Shoulders
* Forearm: Slim
* Shoulder/Armpit Fit: Full
* Rear Pleats: None
* Posture: Normal

I have the same issue with Proper Cloth. I've ordered two shirts now, and while the second one fits better, it's got excess fabric in the back. I sent pictures and explained the issue, and they said to remove some from the waist measurement. I did that, but any more and it will be tight in the front. I asked if they'd do darts and they said that they don't offer them.

 

[OTCtailor]

Gentlemen,

I have been a long time lurker of this forum, but only now has it been worth while to post and get your professional advice as to some issues I have with a recent suit purchase. After reading many of your posts, I have come to value and respect the opinions of many of the members here and I have tried to avail myself of that experience when selecting a suit for my wedding. That being said, I have some concerns with the results of my handiwork, which I will leave toward the bottom of the post so as not to bias anyone (not that the issues aren't obvious). In any case, I would greatly appreciate any criticisms, no matter how harsh, with regard to fit of the suit. As I mentioned, the intended use is for my upcoming wedding, although it will continue to see use thereafter on a weekly basis for business. Thank you to everyone in advance, and I look forward to your thoughts!

Regards,
Chris










So! Now that you have had a chance to see the results, here are my complaints:

1. Pants are absurdly long... this will be promptly addressed.
2. Sleeves are too long, perhaps an 1/8 inch needs to come off.
3. Sleeve pitch seems ok from the top/front, but underneath there is some creasing.
4. Since my right shoulder is low, it is causing puckering on the back right side that seems to carry over into the front of the suit.
5. Needs to be taken in a hair in the chest, although I think the shoulder issue might remedy some of it.
6. Collar seems to sit fairly far back, such that it is not resting on my neck... not sure of the technical term for that one.

WIth the jacket, the biggest problem and most expensive thing to fix will be shortening the back balance and possibly/probably recutting the collar to get it against your neck. It may not really need to be suppressed anywhere. It's borderline tight in the chest or so it look. Sleeve pitch isn't worth fixing it's not that bad. Sleeves need to be shortened more than 1/8". Probably 1-1.5" each sleeve. I would've avoided the hacking pockets in favor of straight pockets, but that's kindof minor. Pants definitely too long. May need other fixes.

 

[nautikal]



I will message you later with a little more specific help.

If you still have time, could you please take a look? I have to order the remakes soon.

Thank you!