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I had the same issue. I was brushing too much between steps. Light brushing (less heat) helped out.Thanks for the response. I checked this morning and it seems to be there still - does it take a day or two?
I appreciate your descriptions/explanations MWS, I am constantly learning from you.
Thanks for the link to the video benhour, it was fun, and informative, to watch.
I had the same issue. I was brushing too much between steps. Light brushing (less heat) helped out.
(And, with a horsehair brush)
David
yes for me too but this is the only reasonable explanation i can think for that!!(if the shoes are new and not resoled)
i would give them back for a refund or replace themYes, the shoes are new and worn not more than 10 times. What seems odd to me is that it looks like the uppers are just glued to the welt/sole. I cannot seem to see any thread or needle holes in the part of the uppers that have separated.
When going through the 3,, 4, or 5 step process - applying "less" product is better than more product. Light brushing and then a repeat should show a difference.Ah ok. Does it go away after a few days or do I need to clean and redo the coat?
Thanks!
I have heard and read many things (on SF and beyond) regarding care for shell cordo shoes. I have a very simple question: I have a vintage pair that are in great shape but seem to be headed toward dehydration. Is the collective wisdom here that I should: 1) simply brush and activate the oils; or 2) use cordovan cream; or 3) use or some other product; or 4) some combination of the above?
Thanks in advance.
any negatives about storing my ae's in plastic tupperware style shoe boxes?
Speaking from personal experience I highly recommend lexol . RonRider says neatsfoot oil is better . If you use lexol and it does not buff back up to expectations a lite coat of reno , saphir cordo cream or venetian will help .
These are 30 + yo shoes w/ 2 coats lexol and 1 lite coat reno