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Saphir tin is what I use too. Nice stuff.
It took me a decent amount of practice but once you've mastered the spitshine it generally won't take that long to 'glaze' a toecap; say 30 min for both. In my experience higher quality leathers are more difficult to glaze though and need a little more time. Best time to do it is whilst watching a film that doesn't demand too much attention : )
Winter shoe care.
I had thought that most of the experts recommended against any treatment of soles, saying that the leather is optimally treated for its use, and applications of other substance would be either useless or harmful. Now no less authority than Allen Edmonds says to
"apply a generous amount of saddle soap to the sole edges of all leather sole shoes to moisturize the sole edge and help seal it from the harsh salt and water during the winter months"
Granted, they are selling saddle soap, but what do people think of this advice?
Do you find that to be the case? For me, it's the exact opposite - higher-grade leathers are a pleasure to shine because they're so much more responsive than your more bog standard hides.
I tend not to mirror shine most of my shoes and boots though, as I'm not convinced that highly-shined shoes pair well with anything other than formal suits. Didn't stop me from bulling everything in sight though when I first learnt how to do it!
I agree with your overall statements. I don't mean to nit-pick, but just thought I would clarify some of the phrasing in bold as it relates to a proper understanding of shoe construction. Also, I apologize if you were referring to shoes as a whole rather than shoes that are typically discussed in this thread (bespoke, hand-welted, or quality goodyear welted). Moccosin construction, Blake stitched, and others do pose some different scenarios, and I am not including those. That said, I think that unlined shoes are generally an exception to the rule, and they aren't very common. Generally unlined shoes are suede, or sometimes shell cordovan, and the manufacterer is going after a more flexible supple shoe right off the shelf. Most shoes are fully lined. The sock liner is not synonymous with the shoe liner. The sock liner is simply the piece of leather that is resting under your foot (between your foot and the insole) and often has a cushioned heel pad. Allen Edmonds does not use sock liners in most of their shoes, so your foot is directly resting on the natural leather insole. Alden, and most others uses a 3/4 length sock liner, and some use full length sock liners. Typically, bespoke and hand-welted shoes are likely to have a full length sock liner to cover up the ugly nail holes that result in the leather insole during shoemaking. The insole of quality goodyear welted shoes is leather. Cheaper goodyear welted shoes may use leatherboard or fiberboard insoles. Cork is filling the void created by the gemming rib under the insole, between the insole and the outsole. Allen Edmonds and every company that is "better" than them, uses cork as a void filler underneath a natural leather insole. Obviously if we start talking cheap shoes (cemented, or other) then there are many variations on how shoes are made, but I think it is safe to assume that most in this forum are concerned with one of the types of shoes mentioned above. Again, sorry to nit-pick, but shoe construction is a big interest of mine.First, the sole edge and the surface of the sole are two different things. The sole edge will expose more of the leather fiber because that is where the leather has been cut. I would suggest edge dressing for the sole edge. Edge dressing is basically a diluted liquid shellac with a high concentration of dye. This will seal the edge better than saddle soap (although edge dressing tends to wear off). For boots I would suggest a coat of Obenauf's leather oil, or if you like you could use mink oil or dubbin.
As far as conditioning leather soles in general, there are various opinions, mainly because there are pros and cons to doing so:
Sole leather is cow hide that is considerably thicker that leather used for shoe uppers, and is tanned using a different process. The tanning process for sole leather is much longer than for upper leather (oak bark tanning of sole leather can take months). The fat liquoring process is somewhat different as well, as the density and purpose of the leather is different. It is still leather however, but because it serves a different purpose it needs to be cared for a little differently.
The leather in the shoe upper is more sensitive and reactive to the moisture in your feet as it has to allow the moisture to pass through the leather (evaporate) to some degree (this is what is referred to as the leather being able to breath). There is no real barrier between your sweaty sock and the leather upper (other than perhaps a sock liner, if your shoes are fully lined). However, your shoes will always have an insole that acts as a padding and a barrier between your foot and the outsole. Most insoles are made of cork (typical in AE shoes), paperboard, or rubber (high end shoes tend to use leather insoles). The leather upper should be conditioned periodically to replace the oils lost (pushed to the surface and removed) due to perspiration (or other exposure to water).
The leather sole really doesn't deal much (if any) with perspiration, but it does deal with weather conditions. If your shoes are frequently exposed to water then it would make sense to replenish some of the lost oils (so the sole doesn't dry up and crack), and perhaps add a little water protection as well. But if you only step in the occasional puddle, there is no good reason to condition your soles (in my opinion). A leather sole does not need to be as soft and flexible as a leather upper (an effect of conditioning), and softer leather will wear and damage more easily than hard leather.
EG is easier to shine because they came out of the factory already with layers of cream and wax.
Personally I bull all black cap toes calfs and for non black shoes I do a gradual bull at toe tip.
The depth and roll of the creases is what it is and there is pretty much nothing you can do about it. As to the darkness in the creases this can be buffed out - brush each shoe vigorously for 10-20 minutes EACH. This should brighten them up considerably. You may also do well to apply something to moisturize/loosen the existing buildup on the shoes - leather lotion, saphir renovateur, etc. etc. should be fine.Hello, Comments on these, or any suggestions on how to spruce them up? They are some old shell Florsheims I stumbled across. Sorry about the flash, although perhaps it clarifies the issues that concern me. Note the creasing that looks a bit excessive to me, and also the dark patches in the creases. I haven't done a thing to them yet, though am unsure of the care (or lack) they had before. Thanks for your insight and wisdom.
I agree with your overall statements. I don't mean to nit-pick, but just thought I would clarify some of the phrasing in bold as it relates to a proper understanding of shoe construction. Also, I apologize if you were referring to shoes as a whole rather than shoes that are typically discussed in this thread (bespoke, hand-welted, or quality goodyear welted). Moccosin construction, Blake stitched, and others do pose some different scenarios, and I am not including those. That said, I think that unlined shoes are generally an exception to the rule, and they aren't very common. Generally unlined shoes are suede, or sometimes shell cordovan, and the manufacterer is going after a more flexible supple shoe right off the shelf. Most shoes are fully lined. The sock liner is not synonymous with the shoe liner. The sock liner is simply the piece of leather that is resting under your foot (between your foot and the insole) and often has a cushioned heel pad. Allen Edmonds does not use sock liners in most of their shoes, so your foot is directly resting on the natural leather insole. Alden, and most others uses a 3/4 length sock liner, and some use full length sock liners. Typically, bespoke and hand-welted shoes are likely to have a full length sock liner to cover up the ugly nail holes that result in the leather insole during shoemaking. The insole of quality goodyear welted shoes is leather. Cheaper goodyear welted shoes may use leatherboard or fiberboard insoles. Cork is filling the void created by the gemming rib under the insole, between the insole and the outsole. Allen Edmonds and every company that is "better" than them, uses cork as a void filler underneath a natural leather insole. Obviously if we start talking cheap shoes (cemented, or other) then there are many variations on how shoes are made, but I think it is safe to assume that most in this forum are concerned with one of the types of shoes mentioned above. Again, sorry to nit-pick, but shoe construction is a big interest of mine.