**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.

  1. dusttruffle

    dusttruffle Senior member

    Messages:
    445
    Likes Received:
    27
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2012
    thanks for all the replies.
     
  2. flaticius

    flaticius New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2012
    Oh great masters of shoe care, If you could help me...

    Any ideas how can I clear out the creasings and make the finish even somehow on these shoes? I have these for quite a long time and those black creasings drive me crazy.

    http://i.imgur.com/7hQaZ.jpg
     
  3. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

    Messages:
    2,145
    Likes Received:
    833
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2007
    Location:
    NBPT, MA
    RE: Brushes, I like the big 8" brushes. I bought an 8" brush at a Florsheim shop somewhere around 1995 and love it. It's big and broken in so nicely, meaning the wood handle is worn smooth and the bristles are so soft that it just works well.

    I recently found two vintage 8" Florsheim brushes on ebay that are also about 20 yrs old. I found the new ones from Florsheim and companies like AE don't seem to work as well. I'm not sure if they just need to break in and soften up but it sure seems like a well worn brush works better. I took patrick Booth's advice and cleaned them with dawn dish detergent

    I use one for dark colors and one for light colors. For instance, the brush I use for #8 and dark brown has also been used for black. Lighter browns have a separate brush. I've never seen much transfer of color from the brush but I don't use a lot of paste wax and I don't use it all that frequently. A little goes a long way.

    In the following image, the three large brushes are used for dark colors, light colors and one for cleaning. The smaller AE brush is for Obenauf on work boots (which is never used on dress shoes). The other small AE brush is for salt removal.

    [​IMG]

    I'm sure this is overkill and I think all you really need is one for polishing dress shoes and another for use with conditioners like HDLP.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2012
  4. bik2101

    bik2101 Senior member

    Messages:
    761
    Likes Received:
    16
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    How easy would it be to remove heel guards? Or should I bring the shoes to a cobbler?

    Sent from my Rezound using Tapatalk 2
     
  5. mcbrown

    mcbrown Senior member

    Messages:
    727
    Likes Received:
    143
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2010
    A question on treating NOS shoes...

    I recently acquired a pair of vintage Florsheims in true NOS condition (see picture). These are on the 5 nail, V-cleat sole, so I'd guess they are at least 30 years old, possibly 40+.

    How should I prep them for "normal" usage after 30-40 years of sitting around doing nothing? I have applied renovateur to the uppers, but should I worry about the linings and soles as well? If so, what in particular can/should I do for the soles, considering that they still have the factory finish on them and will not easily absorb conditioner?

    Or should I not worry about it and just wear them?

    [​IMG]
     
  6. mymil

    mymil Senior member

    Messages:
    1,039
    Likes Received:
    125
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2011
    Location:
    Morgantown, WV
    I've used Lexol on the lining of shoes to make sure they're conditioned, too---I know others do, too. I think pB might use Obenauf's? It can only help to condition all of the leather components of your NOS before wearing them, which includes both the lining and the sole. Dried out soles can crack! I really like Obenauf's for soles. If you warm it up a little as you apply it (I just use the friction of the rag on the leather for this), it will absorb better. Just be sure you allow all the conditioner on the lining to completely soak in, otherwise it'll rub off on your socks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2012
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,398
    Likes Received:
    8,780
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Yeah, I use obaneufs on the soles and the inside. I find their heavy duty LP to be a little too much for dress shoes. I love their leather oil, which is the same ingredients just with less beeswax to be great for the soles and lining. When I do the insides I take out the shoe trees and apply it, the next day I put the trees back in.
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,398
    Likes Received:
    8,780
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    I would try to use a conditioner to clear them out. I would put trees in them and try rubbing a bit hard with a rag and either some renovateur, or lexol conditioner. After that, maybe a little bit of pigmented shoe cream in a close shade to the shoes.
     
  9. Gilmour

    Gilmour Senior member

    Messages:
    159
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney AU
    Ok at risk of being hung drawn and quartered here but here goes

    I have Hugo Boss leather jacket made of really soft quite thin Italian Nappa leather do you think it would be ok to use Saphir Renovator on this or is it the wrong type of Reno to use ??
     
  10. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

    Messages:
    2,035
    Likes Received:
    448
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    I would personally not waste so much reno on a jacket. I would advise you to try out Lexol Conditioner.
     
  11. bitesize

    bitesize Member

    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2012
    I've read through much of this, but it's all quite a lot to take in. This is my first time here, so thanks in advance for being gentle.

    I'm getting my first pair of shoes worth caring for, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot in Brown. I'm curious what is important for my shoe care "starter kit" to best care for these boots (and provide the foundation for more purchases as I get more adventurous). Based on what I've read, I'm thinking a good place to start might be:

    AE Horsehair Dauber
    AE Horsehair Shine Brush
    AE Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth x2
    AE Conditioner/Cleaner
    AE Combination Cedar Shoe Trees
    Kiwi Brown Paste Polish
    Atsko Sno-Seal Wax
    Lexol Leather Cleaner

    Given that I'm in NYC and don't have a wide variety in my collection, the boots would get heavy use. My understanding is that I should wipe them down with a barely moist cloth and give a quick dry brush whenever I get home, and maybe once every couple of weeks, condition, shine, and use the sno-seal to protect the sole and sole stitching. Then every 2-3 months, use the Lexol to remove all of the wax buildup and rejuvenate the leather. Did I get that right?

    What's your take on this "starter kit"? Is any kind of waterproofing spray useful or necessary?
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2012
  12. benhour

    benhour Senior member

    Messages:
    647
    Likes Received:
    217
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2012
    Location:
    Athens
    totally agree! there would be no problem to use it but i think with lexol u ll be ok!!

    bitesize: it doesnt have to be from AE(they are rebranded collonil) any horse hair brush-dauber ll be ok!! personaly i dont recommend kiwi cause they are silicon based!!
    use some more beeswax based products!!(saphir-collonil etc ll be great)
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2012
  13. Gilmour

    Gilmour Senior member

    Messages:
    159
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney AU
    Ok thanks for tips on the Leather Jacket Gents
     
  14. cbfn

    cbfn Senior member

    Messages:
    2,035
    Likes Received:
    448
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2010
    Location:
    Norway
    

    The Wolverine 1k boots are beautiful, but they are made of the lovely chromexcel leather which is a pull-up leather. Hence, the leather will scuff easily but it will be able to buff out. However, it will be difficult to polish these to a good shine, but I think the ruggedness of the boot is not pairable with high shine. After using Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP on some of my boots and seeing Crane's (check out his excellent threads over on Streetwear & Denim) method for applying Sno-Seal it, I would say that's all you need. The Lexol cleaner should be used very sparingly, and only when you have serious stain issues.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2012
  15. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,398
    Likes Received:
    8,780
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    Also, check out Obenauf's Leather Oil. I use it on my leather sofa. Check out their stuff here: https://www.obenaufs.com/index.php?route=common/home
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by