UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.
Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.
This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here
Good luck!.
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I have no experience of both your conditioners but I'm not sure I would use either of them on expensive dress shoes.So I'm running out of Saphir Renovateur, and I have these giant tubs of waxy leather conditioner laying around, so it seems wasteful not to use these instead. The red one is RM Williams leather conditioner with lanolin and beeswax, primarily meant for my RMW Comfort Craftsmen. The Fiebing's is more generic and contains vaseline, "etheric oils" and beeswax. Can I use these on my calf Carmina and C&J dress shoes for conditioning? I've read vaseline is not recommended. Thanks! View attachment 1373565
I think it's a quite risky project and I never tried anything like.Ive bought a pair of used Loake Buckingham in light tan colour as a project.
I want to colour/dye these to be a cognac colour. Can anyone recommend which dye i should buy for cognac thats available in UK ?
As I spoke about working on heels and sole edges, I'd like to show what I did on a pair of Cheaney 'Alfred'.
Out of the box the heels and sole edges were quite rough (sanding marks quite evident) and quickly the back of the left heel lost its colour (it rubbed on my car's rug as I drove), so I did as follow:
- removed all the finish with acetone;
- sanded the raw leather with three grades of sandpaper (180, 240 and 360 grit) until the leather was nice and smooth, almost glossy;
- dampened the sanded areas and burnished them until dry with some specific smooth metal tools (the same used by shoemakers, three different for heel, sole edges and sole waist), applying quite a lot of pressure;
- dyed the leather with Saphir 'Teinture Francaise' applied with a brush in long smooth strokes (protecting the uppers of the shoe with tape is higly recommended!);
- dampened and burnished again the leather until smooth;
- applied wax (I used 'Saphir mirror shine' in mahogany as I had this at hand): cut a bit of wax and generously rub it on the leather; let the solvent in it dry for a couple days;
- melt and burnish the wax into the leather with the same tools as above, heated to 'sizzling hot', vigorously rubbed on the leather in short quick strokes back and forth;
- final shine with a soft cloth, again with a vigorous motion an quite a lot of pression.
Here is the outcome:
Before ...
View attachment 1374600
... and after
View attachment 1374601
The shoes on my feet: before
View attachment 1374602
and after
View attachment 1374603
I like to work on my shoes, but everyone has to be judge for himself and decide if the results are worth the chore!
P.S. (to @DWFII) ... yes, I remember what you told me and every time I do such a work I try to see: 1) three ponts worth being happy with and 2) three needing to be improved.
Sadly, for me is easier to fulfil the second rule than the first ...
Where can i get a job lot of shoe trees ?
I have 10 shoes that i have been stuffing with scrunched up newspaper as shoe trees. I can't spend £100's on a load of shoe trees at once so am looking for deals. Any ideas
i’ve bought 6 pairs of cedar shoe trees from seller ‘caterpillare’ at £13/pair delivered. I have his e-mail address if you would like it - I’m sure he wouldn’t be averse to agreeing a bit of a deal.
Could you describe them?
I buy mine from AliExpress
With one or two spring tubes?