**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[stephenaf2003]

I'm not a special snow flake.

[/quote]

You may not be a snow flake, but you're definitely special. The way old boy went in on you, and your replies demonstrate you are a true gentleman. I'll have to try to implement your perspective in the future; Awesome!

 

[starro]

I have a particular affinity towards softly flowing organic curves and drapery often exemplified in brands such as Yohji Yamamoto, Isabella Stefanelli, Maurizio Altieri, Jan Jan Van Essche, Uma Wang etc.


I realise the sole is problematic on the slip on. I'm actually more drawn to a pair like these from the most recent Yohji collaboration:

http://www.souterrain.jp/blog/?p=11855

http://hues.co.jp/yohji-yamamoto-x-cherevichkiotvichki-derby-shoes/

These so-called fashion brands are all the same once you peel back the veneer of flowery artsy language that quite frankly doesn't mean a heckuvalot. If you are able to get beyond the superficial vagaries (and I think calling them an aesthetic really cheapens the value of that word), you'll see they are all the same: cheap. Corrected grain or bonded leather, in such small pieces that stitches are everywhere; everything glued together in some 3rd world factory that spits out millions of these clones a year; nothing built to last more than 1-2 seasons.

Or you could consider classic shoe forms that have been around for centuries.

 

[Mojo1990]



These so-called fashion brands are all the same once you peel back the veneer of flowery artsy language that quite frankly doesn't mean a heckuvalot. If you are able to get beyond the superficial vagaries (and I think calling them an aesthetic really cheapens the value of that word), you'll see they are all the same: cheap. Corrected grain or bonded leather, in such small pieces that stitches are everywhere; everything glued together in some 3rd world factory that spits out millions of these clones a year; nothing built to last more than 1-2 seasons.

Or you could consider classic shoe forms that have been around for centuries.

Ah! Now I'm beginning to understand your perspective much better. It seems you've developed quite a large brush. I do envy your commitment to ethical standards. That would go a long way in explaining your attitude.

Are you perhaps familiar with Geoffrey B Small? A true artisan if their ever was one! I have the deepest of admiration and respect for his work. Ideally I too would like to invest in footwear that is sourced and manufactured ethically, but I'm suspecting it would be rather difficult to locate an "artisan" that not only produces well, but that also designs a pair "aesthetically" pleasing to my particular sensibilities. I would like to think most of the brands I've mentioned above are actually producing quality pieces (*within* Europe and Japan) but not quite to your high standards of production practise. In my estimation the better the practice and the more ornate the design becomes the more I would need to spend. Geoffrey has recently spoken at length on the woes of mass shoe production. I'm new to all of this. I would certainly like to think brands like M_moria and Guidi are exceedingly better options than any generic retail outlet in Town.

 

[starro]

Ah! Now I'm beginning to understand your perspective much better. It seems you've developed quite a large brush. I do envy your commitment to ethical standards. That would go a long way in explaining your attitude.

Are you perhaps familiar with Geoffrey B Small? A true artisan if their ever was one! I have the deepest of admiration and respect for his work. Ideally I too would like to invest in footwear that is sourced and manufactured ethically, but I'm suspecting it would be rather difficult to locate an "artisan" that not only produces well, but that also designs a pair "aesthetically" pleasing to my particular sensibilities. I would like to think most of the brands I've mentioned above are actually producing quality pieces (*within* Europe and Japan) but not quite to your high standards of production practise. In my estimation the better the practice and the more ornate the design becomes the more I would need to spend. Geoffrey has recently spoken at length on the woes of mass shoe production. I'm new to all of this. I would certainly like to think brands like M_moria and Guidi are exceedingly better options than any generic retail outlet in Town.

Thank you for the compliments. One fact I think the designers ignore is that it's a major achievement in and of itself to do the old stuff well. We do not need to throw out the baby with the bathwater for every single outfit or every single occasion. Over-innovation for its own sake is nothing more than ego stroking and self promotion, imo.

For example, in the context of shoes, I think it's a great accomplishment by itslef to execute a black calfskin captoe oxford, with balanced lines, clean stitches, and solid construction. The shoes you originally posted are very ugly to me. So that gives you a little taste why I think "designers" are totally unnecessary for clothing. Fashion changes that are the result of craftsmen adapting their skills to new needs tend to last and to preserve tradition. Inorganic changes from daydreamers who seek to create a new need and grab the center of attention are just that, the papparazzi of "artisans."

 

[Mojo1990]

What particular brands or craftsmen do you have in mind that make good shoes? I don't have a budget. I've recently been very interested in Japanese craftsmanship, but I'm eager to support more local businesses as a matter of principle.

 

[starro]

The Loake 1880s would probably be your entry point to quality leather footwear, locally based in UK. If money is tight, wait for sales, or buy second-hand from people who bought but shoes don't fit. What about "Japanese crafsmanship" that catches your eye?

 

[Munky]

The Loake 1880s would probably be your entry point to quality leather footwear, locally based in UK. If money is tight, wait for sales, or buy second-hand from people who bought but shoes don't fit. What about "Japanese crafsmanship" that catches your eye?

Loake 1880s are a good place to start. I have quite a few pairs of them, alongside Tricker's, Sander's and so on. All are available in the UK and all offer good service.

However, for what it's worth, I think that only we, as individuals, can decide what we do and don't like. If you like it and can afford it, buy it and don't listen to too many dissenting voices. There is room for everyone, both here and in the real world too!

 

[Mojo1990]

I was reading the Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW super thread.

 

[Nick V.]



Applying a thin layer of topical epoxy is less crazy than drilling through the soles.

Unconventional but less crazy.

?

 

[mreams99]

From a distance, my shell cordovan looks fine.

Up close, I can see these small spots. They are slightly lighter in color, and a little bit raised from the surrounding surface.

Do I just ignore this?
Is there something that I should do?

 

[starro]

From a distance, my shell cordovan looks fine.

Up close, I can see these small spots. They are slightly lighter in color, and a little bit raised from the surrounding surface.



Do I just ignore this?
Is there something that I should do?

I see this on calfskin too, fwiw. Freudenberg boxcalf to be exact.

I don't do anything special besides regular polish and condition.

 

[M2511]

From a distance, my shell cordovan looks fine.

Up close, I can see these small spots. They are slightly lighter in color, and a little bit raised from the surrounding surface.





Do I just ignore this?
Is there something that I should do?

I've worked these out with back of a spoon and some saphir renovateur and similar results with a deer bone. Takes a little bit of work but they go away. Brushing afterwards of course. Others have said itll go away with time and brushing.

 

[stephenaf2003]

I see this on calfskin too, fwiw. Freudenberg boxcalf to be exact.

I don't do anything special besides regular polish and condition.

I've worked these out of my shells with nothing other than a deer bone.

It took me a few tries to get the hang of it, but now, I just go to town on all my shell boots with my deer bone it works really well on them.

 

[TtownMD]

So gents what do you guys recommend for storing shoes & boot I have been using original shoe box. But picked up shoe container & boot container from container store. It's plastic & see through easy way to organize. If I take my shoes & boot put shoe trees on them, put them inside shoe bag & then store them in plastic containers. Will this create any kind of problem long term wise. From my understand no, but buddy says shoes & boot need to breath etc. So figured to ask you gents & get your input also, they will be kept stacked in closet.

 

[Biggquis]

Any way to lessen wrinkling that has occurred near the toebox? You know what... nevermind. It's fine. I think. Right? fa;lksdjf;lakdjs;flajds;lkfaj;ed