Suggestions and comments for a London Lounge Gun Club jacket

[texas_jack]

"fishmouth" notches.

 

[dopey]

I am monitoring this thread carefully as I have a length of this sitting in a drawer. So far, I am thinking three patch and flap, 3 button front, half belt and a box pleat rather than vent in the back. It will be a light jacket as much as a sportcoat. But that is only today's plan. In any event, there are at least one if not two tweed lengths ahead of this in the queue.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you for explaining that.

When there is a large scale pattern, either windowpane or plaid, I that imagine the larger aspects of the pattern can be used more easily to fool the eye into thinking that pattern matching and symmetry are achieved with precision.

In something like this check, I presume that is a bit harder because the pattern is large enough to require attention, but not so large as to train the eye quickly.

What do you think about a quarter lining for a tweed in this weight? Superfluous or useful?

- B

Lined as the M&M shown is fine. Sometimes the canvass is covered over by the facing cloth in a partially lined jacket. That would not work well on cloth this weight. Partial lined will be more work on your jacket as I assume you will get side vents. The M&M is a center vent. With a partial lining they will need to tape the edges like the M&M. You do not want to turn the raw edges over and sew them like Oxxford does. The edges will be too thick and heavy. If you go full lined, the lining weight is insignificant to the weight of the cloth.

I prefer the 3 patch look of the M&M over the pocket styling of the Steed. More sporty for a sport coat.

 

[John Ellis]

Sorry to rain on anyones parade but why would anyone want to wear this when there are such fantastic tweeds by people like Breanish out there. They are trad but much better suited to a 2008 world it seems to me. This cloth strikes me as almost a parody and I speak as someone who owns a fairly loudish Cheviot sportcoat which is probably my least worn individual jacket because of climatic and social considerations. Imagine a jacket made up in this cloth and one made up in one of the Breanish tweeds and imagine which would look the more cool and sophisticated in an urban environment. The link to the picture of it made up looks ok but imagining this on the streets of London, Paris or NY evokes rolled eyes. I can just about see it in on the North Yorkshire moors but then how much time is the wearer going to spend in that locale.

 

[Mildly Consumptive]

I'm pretty sure I've said this before, but I deeply regret my failure to order this cloth.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by John Ellis

Sorry to rain on anyones parade but why would anyone want to wear this when there are such fantastic tweeds by people like Breanish out there. They are trad but much better suited to a 2008 world it seems to me. This cloth strikes me as almost a parody and I speak as someone who owns a fairly loudish Cheviot sportcoat which is probably my least worn individual jacket because of climatic and social considerations. Imagine a jacket made up in this cloth and one made up in one of the Breanish tweeds and imagine which would look the more cool and sophisticated in an urban environment. The link to the picture of it made up looks ok but imagining this on the streets of London, Paris or NY evokes rolled eyes. I can just about see it in on the North Yorkshire moors but then how much time is the wearer going to spend in that locale.

My two experiences making Breanish tweed are not good ones. The cloth has no guts and shifts in the making. The seams have to be taped to prevent them shredding and splitting. I think it is really awful stuff IMO.

But I would be interested to know why you like this cloth.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by John Ellis

The link to the picture of it made up looks ok but imagining this on the streets of London, Paris or NY evokes rolled eyes. I can just about see it in on the North Yorkshire moors but then how much time is the wearer going to spend in that locale.

It is quite alright not to like it. And I do like Breanish tweeds as well, but one cannot make everything at once, as Dopey's production line summary indicates.

As for seeing it on the streets of London and Paris, the link in my original post shows Alden in his in what looks to me like Paris.

In fact, I would imagine Parisians to dote on a jacket like this worn in the city, since it is one of the few types of Anglophilia that appeals to many of them.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Despos

The cloth has no guts and shifts in the making.

I've heard this as well, and it is not surprising that it is most used by A&S since their soft tailoring can lose a bit of structure and still look fine (if you like the look, which I do).

- B

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Despos

My two experiences making Breanish tweed are not good ones. The cloth has no guts and shifts in the making. The seams have to be taped to prevent them shredding and splitting. I think it is really awful stuff IMO.

I have some sports caps made of Breanish tweed. I thought I would try it out as a cap then order more cloth for a matching coat, but I agree it is gutless, fluffy crap.

 

[John Ellis]

Originally Posted by Despos

My two experiences making Breanish tweed are not good ones. The cloth has no guts and shifts in the making. The seams have to be taped to prevent them shredding and splitting. I think it is really awful stuff IMO.

But I would be interested to know why you like this cloth.

Firstly, I just quoted Breanish as an example of the many fine and I think more viable tweeds around. As to Breanish I just think it looks a knockout. I know someone who has a jacket made up in it, I think he got it from A&S but I don't usually ask people where they get their stuff out of the anonymity of a place like this. I've just ordered some to get a jacket made up. So I'll have to see if your strictures turn out to be accurate.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by John Ellis

Firstly, I just quoted Breanish as an example of the many fine and I think more viable tweeds around. As to Breanish I just think it looks a knockout. I know someone who has a jacket made up in it, I think he got it from A&S but I don't usually ask people where they get their stuff out of the anonymity of a place like this. I've just ordered some to get a jacket made up. So I'll have to see if your strictures turn out to be accurate.

Fair enough. Awaiting your follow up and with pics.

 

[John Ellis]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

It is quite alright not to like it. And I do like Breanish tweeds as well, but one cannot make everything at once, as Dopey's production line summary indicates.

As for seeing it on the streets of London and Paris, the link in my original post shows Alden in his in what looks to me like Paris.

In fact, I would imagine Parisians to dote on a jacket like this worn in the city, since it is one of the few types of Anglophilia that appeals to many of them.

- B

Each to his own I suppose. I've spent a lot of time in Paris over the years and am well aware of the streak of Anglomania present in the French but in my experience they tend to take English concepts and make them MORE not less sophisticated. With due respect to the Alden pic on the streets this does not conform to my idea of what constitutes casual elegance.

 

[John Ellis]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I've heard this as well, and it is not surprising that it is most used by A&S since their soft tailoring can lose a bit of structure and still look fine (if you like the look, which I do).

- B

I love it when an aged sportcoat takes on a slightly baggy appearance.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by John Ellis

I love it when an aged sportcoat takes on a slightly baggy appearance.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by John Ellis

I love it when an aged sportcoat takes on a slightly baggy appearance.
+a million.