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Thanks for the kind words guys, and most of all, thank you aj. I'm glad it got there and happy to hear you like it.
Regarding this:
Was this your choice or something that just could not be done by TOJ?
The suede makes the collar more "substantial" and stiff and therefore does not have that soft roll.
Can you do some pictures of the inside, buttons...etc. (detail shots)?
I considered both construction methods. The main factor was this:
I knew the picture from Leon was an all-rib collar, but I took a little creative license there.
I added the suede edges to the collar, after a lot of consideration, because I wanted a more solid base for the buttons to be anchored to, and to button into. I know that those buttons will be rarely, if ever fastened, but it was this and the buttonhole construction: I also opted to put flashed buttonholes on this jacket, not thread-bound ones. They button much smoother this way and look great. That's 2 little 2-piece suede flashings in each buttonhole, including the pocket flaps. All of the buttonholes match this way.
The suede parts are really soft, and there's no interface in there or anything, so the collar is soft. The suede part is actually less stiff than the rib trim, so that won't be interfering with any possible roll.
This was also considered as a factor for the above.
as aj said, it's thick burgundy pure silk. We normally use a Japanese cupro but our maker had some burgundy silk lying around this time, and aj requested burgundy lining (with a couple alternate picks) and this worked out well. It's very, very nice. Not a cheap fabric, by any means.
My 2 cents: I think the fit is spot on. I could tell aj, by bringing me that picture, was wanting a soft suede A-1 style jacket to be worn buttoned at the midsection most of the time, and I think the length of the body and sleeves are both good for that. He's wearing the sleeves over his shirt cuffs there so there's a little bunching in the sleeves, but at the same time, it looks good that way too.
Regarding this:
I notice the collar of the jacket is not completely fabric but has suede tipping in the front.
Was this your choice or something that just could not be done by TOJ?
The suede makes the collar more "substantial" and stiff and therefore does not have that soft roll.
Can you do some pictures of the inside, buttons...etc. (detail shots)?
I considered both construction methods. The main factor was this:
I think they changed the material to suede where the buttonholes are located due to the kind of buttonholes they made which might not be possible in the ribbing material.
I knew the picture from Leon was an all-rib collar, but I took a little creative license there.
I added the suede edges to the collar, after a lot of consideration, because I wanted a more solid base for the buttons to be anchored to, and to button into. I know that those buttons will be rarely, if ever fastened, but it was this and the buttonhole construction: I also opted to put flashed buttonholes on this jacket, not thread-bound ones. They button much smoother this way and look great. That's 2 little 2-piece suede flashings in each buttonhole, including the pocket flaps. All of the buttonholes match this way.
The suede parts are really soft, and there's no interface in there or anything, so the collar is soft. The suede part is actually less stiff than the rib trim, so that won't be interfering with any possible roll.
I prefer the leather at the throat of the coat too. It repeats the leather at the bottom of the jacket.
This was also considered as a factor for the above.
Very nice..........can we get shots of the lining?
as aj said, it's thick burgundy pure silk. We normally use a Japanese cupro but our maker had some burgundy silk lying around this time, and aj requested burgundy lining (with a couple alternate picks) and this worked out well. It's very, very nice. Not a cheap fabric, by any means.
My 2 cents: I think the fit is spot on. I could tell aj, by bringing me that picture, was wanting a soft suede A-1 style jacket to be worn buttoned at the midsection most of the time, and I think the length of the body and sleeves are both good for that. He's wearing the sleeves over his shirt cuffs there so there's a little bunching in the sleeves, but at the same time, it looks good that way too.