Suede Jacket - MTM jacket pics added

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by aj_del, Feb 23, 2010.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Thanks for the kind words guys, and most of all, thank you aj. I'm glad it got there and happy to hear you like it.


    Regarding this:

    I notice the collar of the jacket is not completely fabric but has suede tipping in the front.

    Was this your choice or something that just could not be done by TOJ?

    The suede makes the collar more "substantial" and stiff and therefore does not have that soft roll.


    Can you do some pictures of the inside, buttons...etc. (detail shots)?


    I considered both construction methods. The main factor was this:
    I think they changed the material to suede where the buttonholes are located due to the kind of buttonholes they made which might not be possible in the ribbing material.

    I knew the picture from Leon was an all-rib collar, but I took a little creative license there.
    I added the suede edges to the collar, after a lot of consideration, because I wanted a more solid base for the buttons to be anchored to, and to button into. I know that those buttons will be rarely, if ever fastened, but it was this and the buttonhole construction: I also opted to put flashed buttonholes on this jacket, not thread-bound ones. They button much smoother this way and look great. That's 2 little 2-piece suede flashings in each buttonhole, including the pocket flaps. All of the buttonholes match this way.
    The suede parts are really soft, and there's no interface in there or anything, so the collar is soft. The suede part is actually less stiff than the rib trim, so that won't be interfering with any possible roll.

    I prefer the leather at the throat of the coat too. It repeats the leather at the bottom of the jacket.

    This was also considered as a factor for the above.

    Very nice..........can we get shots of the lining?

    as aj said, it's thick burgundy pure silk. We normally use a Japanese cupro but our maker had some burgundy silk lying around this time, and aj requested burgundy lining (with a couple alternate picks) and this worked out well. It's very, very nice. Not a cheap fabric, by any means.

    My 2 cents: I think the fit is spot on. I could tell aj, by bringing me that picture, was wanting a soft suede A-1 style jacket to be worn buttoned at the midsection most of the time, and I think the length of the body and sleeves are both good for that. He's wearing the sleeves over his shirt cuffs there so there's a little bunching in the sleeves, but at the same time, it looks good that way too.
     
  2. trader

    trader Senior member

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    So it only took 2 weeks to make? I may just have to order one too. And because I'm lazy I'll probably just have them makes the same as yours [​IMG] Looks great on you btw. Quite impressed, especially for that price. Can you comment on the quality of the suede? You handled a BC one right before this, how does it compare to that? I've been looking for a similar style jacket for a while but I can't find one in my size at a sale price (48eu).
     
  3. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Is the color as orange as the pic shows or is it closer to brown IRL?
     
  4. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    So it only took 2 weeks to make? I may just have to order one too. And because I'm lazy I'll probably just have them makes the same as yours [​IMG]

    This one only took a couple weeks to make and send; we usually say we have a longer lead time nowadays because we get a lot of orders and our work schedule is inconsistent, but we like to try to get these leathers out after 2-3 weeks.

    I'm curious as to aj's opinion on the leather quality as well, knowing he had the Cuci jacket recently. This one was made from Italian lamb suede. Our leathers are sourced from a lot of places, but nappa and lamb suede come from Italy, thick lamb that we use in our leather jackets comes from New Zealand or France, and calf comes from various places, Australia, the US, Turkey, etc. Not sure where the bullhorn buttons come from, tbh. We have a lot of different materials.
     
  5. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    So it only took 2 weeks to make? I may just have to order one too. And because I'm lazy I'll probably just have them makes the same as yours [​IMG]

    Looks great on you btw. Quite impressed, especially for that price. Can you comment on the quality of the suede? You handled a BC one right before this, how does it compare to that?

    I've been looking for a similar style jacket for a while but I can't find one in my size at a sale price (48eu).


    This one only took a couple weeks to make and send; we usually say we have a longer lead time nowadays because we get a lot of orders and our work schedule is inconsistent, but we like to try to get these leathers out after 2-3 weeks.

    I'm curious as to aj's opinion on the leather quality as well, knowing he had the Cuci jacket recently. This one was made from Italian lamb suede. Our leathers are sourced from a lot of places, but nappa and lamb suede come from Italy, thick lamb that we use in our leather jackets comes from New Zealand or France, and calf comes from various places, Australia, the US, Turkey, etc. Not sure where the bullhorn buttons come from, tbh. We have a lot of different materials.


    I have the Cucinelli jacket from this season.

    The leather for the sleeve is not a whole piece like in the picture or the Loro Piana version. It's pieced together.
     
  6. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I'm still trying to figure out if the piecing on the Cuci is due to them cutting the heart out of the hides for quality, or if they were putting them together as a 'design' thing... or if they're just using really small, cheaper hides.
    Suede in general, lamb or otherwise, is pretty clean because they get to wipe that top grain off and hide blemishes, and lamb suedes are really small as well, so I'm not sure. I don't know at this point if I can find lamb suede hides big enough to make a raglan sleeved jacket. The ones for aj were as big as we could get when we asked for it, and they were big enough, but I doubt they could've made a jacket a lot bigger.
     
  7. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    Are the sleeves too long? They look too bunchy.

    The body and pockets bunch up weirdly even with it undone at the bottom - maybe a combo of too tight and too long or just a weird construction.

    And, yes, the ribbing at the neck would be best left without the leather sides.

    But, if it works for you, good.



    I like maomao's OTR look from the 1st page. It's short enough and wide enough to give that same nice drape in the Cucc photo (actually better than the cucc photo), the sleeves are just right, and of course the all material ribbing at neck.


    Personally I prefer the fit of my jacket to maomao's. I feel that his jacket is too short for my taste. I definitely want my belt to be covered. Otherwise I dont feel comfortable and I feel that the belt showing is more of a SW & D aesthetic.

    Is the color as orange as the pic shows or is it closer to brown IRL?

    Much closer to brown. It's certainly not as rust in real life.

    So it only took 2 weeks to make? I may just have to order one too. And because I'm lazy I'll probably just have them makes the same as yours [​IMG]

    Looks great on you btw. Quite impressed, especially for that price. Can you comment on the quality of the suede? You handled a BC one right before this, how does it compare to that?

    I've been looking for a similar style jacket for a while but I can't find one in my size at a sale price (48eu).



    This one only took a couple weeks to make and send; we usually say we have a longer lead time nowadays because we get a lot of orders and our work schedule is inconsistent, but we like to try to get these leathers out after 2-3 weeks.

    I'm curious as to aj's opinion on the leather quality as well, knowing he had the Cuci jacket recently. This one was made from Italian lamb suede. Our leathers are sourced from a lot of places, but nappa and lamb suede come from Italy, thick lamb that we use in our leather jackets comes from New Zealand or France, and calf comes from various places, Australia, the US, Turkey, etc. Not sure where the bullhorn buttons come from, tbh. We have a lot of different materials.



    Well, the suede on the TOJ is as soft as the BC suede jacket I had. One difference I see is that the nap of the TOJ is more than the BC in the sense that hairs are longer and as such feels even more luxe. Whether this make is better or worse I don't know.

    Personally I am very satisfied with the quality of the suede. It's soft enough and luxe enough for me.

    One area in which I do feel BC has a slight edge is the number of pockets provided inside. TOJ has single inside breast pocket while the BC had 3 or 4. I dont use it much so it's not an issue with me but some people do like a lot of pockets. In that case you might want to mention it to them while ordering.
     
  8. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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  9. clausc

    clausc Senior member

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    I'm hijacking this old thread.

    I discovered I have two similar leather jackets that just sleep in my closet, both are new with tags. I'd like to sell at least one of them. I have 4 or 5 other leather jackets and that's already too much.
    Which one would you keep? I's prefer the Bally, more elegant and fits better (no pics, sorry)
    The first one is also pretty fitted, but the colour a bit old fashioned?


    Sorry for the crappy pictures.

    1) Marlboro Classics tan goat suede (retail around 650 USD, bought for 100 USD)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    2) Bally Navy buttersoft lambskin (retail almost 2000 USD, bought for about 900 USD)
    [​IMG]
     
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I'd keep the Bally
     
  11. clausc

    clausc Senior member

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    Thanks, I think I would not be able to sell it at the price I bought it anyway.

    I know Marlboro Classics is not known in US, but lately they made (mostly in Romania) some modern leather jackets which sell for 1000-1500 USD, that are not Belstaff, Cucinelli or Loro Piano, but nicely made, very soft, modern or vintage looking. Is this one pretty classic or cheap looking?
     
  12. Macallan9

    Macallan9 Senior member

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    Looks great. I'll put up some pics of my zip goat bomber soon in case people are interested in that style as well. ToJ makes amazing leather jackets. I'm surprised more MC guys haven't jumped and bought a jacket yet. Leather quality is top notch and the bombers especially are very well made. That's not to say that the other styles aren't.

    I think they need to get some more exposure out...I honest to god up until just now thought it was just another random SW&D approved brand, not MTM leather jackets from SF members. Definitely thinking about getting a similar jacket. Although a copy of that navy lambskin seems pretty appealing...
     
  13. Riley Dee

    Riley Dee Senior member

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    Resurrecting a dead thread here but...

    [​IMG]

    I just won this on Ebay.
     
  14. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    What would happen if I hot soaked the jacket and dried it in direct sun?

    Just wondering. ..
     
  15. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I realize you posted this like 9 months ago, but I really hope you didn't do this... about the worst thing you could ever do to a suede jacket.
     

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