Streamlined Shoe Wardrobe

[jrd617]



Of necessity, I have a pair of burgundy calf shoes. I polish them with black meltoninian shoe cream, occasionally black wax and less occasionally cordovan (burgundy) wax. I think this has given them a nice depth of color, but I admit that without this effort, they would look like crap.

Interesting, I'll have to try this. My burgundy calf shoes look like they're infused with polystyrene. Do you find that this helps them to look less shiny?

 

[dopey]

Shininess was never the problem with mine. It was that the burgundy calf looked flat, dull and lifeless.

 

[mymil]



What Vass last is that? Looks comfy.

Could work with a suit too

Vass Old English F Last

I agree, it could work with a suit—I just don't wear them! I think for those who don't need to do conservative business dress, it's very versatile.

 

[archibaldleach]



I agree. He went a bit off the rails there for a while.

Just to make myself clear: I'm not that huge a fan of black shoes, but I do think they're preferable to brown shoes in:

1. Formal and semi-formal ensembles (duh)
2. Monochromatic ensembles in tints and shades of grey (think Cary Grant in North by Northwest)
3. Ensembles featuring black neckwear.
4. Many SW&D ensembles

In pretty much all other instances, however, I would go brown.

The North by Northwest look is truly a classic.

 

[chogall]

Absolutely dreadful.

Thank you.

 

[glenjay]



...
2) Brown punch caps. The ultimate suit shoe, gorgeous and goes with virtually everything; could sub this one for a brown half or full brogue
...

I am familiar with a quarter brogue, half brogue, and full brogue, and I know the difference. But, I'm not sure what a punch cap is. Is this a cap toe with a medallion and no broguing on the cap seam?

 

[Leaves]



I am familiar with a quarter brogue, half brogue, and full brogue, and I know the difference. But, I'm not sure what a punch cap is. Is this a cap toe with a medallion and no broguing on the cap seam?

I've never used the term quarter brogue personally, only semi brogue and full brogue (or just brogue).

Punch(ed) cap toe:

 

[Patrick R]

From a similar thread a couple of weeks ago where we were limited to 5 shoes:

1. Casual beaters - get worn everyday: calf skin chukka with Dainite sole



2 and 3. Punched caps in black and brown





4. Suede




5. Cordovan

Since I get to add a sixth for this thread, I'd throw in my black stitch caps:

 

[glenjay]



I've never used the term quarter brogue personally, only semi brogue and full brogue (or just brogue).

Punch(ed) cap toe:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thanks Leaves, I thought I was missing something. So it would seem that a punch cap toe is the same as a quarter brogue. I think the delineation of quarter brogue is more accurate than punch cap, so I will continue to use that.

 

[Fred G. Unn]



From a similar thread a couple of weeks ago where we were limited to 5 shoes:

Nice Patrick, this thread needs more pics. I'd include my RL Marlows too. If limited to 6 from my actual current closet (instead of a hypothetical), these are what I'd probably grab:

RL Marlow, C&J Hallam, C&J Westbourne (chestnut, although a true burgundy shoe might be better here), AE Malverns, Peal (Sargent) suede caps, C&J Lowndes. I'm not expecting much love around here for that last one, but I actually wear it a lot and can dress it up or down. I rarely wear loafers so I could do without 'em. A pair of beater boots with a Dainte sole would be nice to add though, like my Loake Litchfields below.

 

[globetrotter]

black cord ankle boots
wholecut with medalian
full brogue
austerity brogue
split toe nowegian


for summer
black calf perferated ankle boot
black woven leather with solid cap toe ankle boot

for winter
black shearning lined side zip calf ankle boot

casual
black redwings cord boot
gray dessert boot
black kangaroo rm williams

black shearling boot

black canvas doc marten ankle boot
black canvas paladium boot

 

[RogerP]

Patrick - love the shell shortwings.

 

[AldenPyle]



Of necessity, I have a pair of burgundy calf shoes. I polish them with black meltoninian shoe cream, occasionally black wax and less occasionally cordovan (burgundy) wax. I think this has given them a nice depth of color, but I admit that without this effort, they would look like crap.

Necessity?

In any case, this is a good idea. I will try it on some calf pennies which have grown too purple (which I think might be the real danger of burgundy calf).

 

[NORE]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Inspired by NOBD.

Having only read the OP I say:

1) Had them, they saw very little wear so they had to go.
2) My go-to shoe (EG Midford dark oak antique)
3) No thick soles for me. I don't walk enough to warrant them
4) No monks for me, buckles are for pilgrims and the amish
5) Polo tan tassels (C&J/RL Redway)
6) No suede oxfords for me, they just didn't pair well with anything I own

As to the basic principles:

-Oxfords are for suits - Agreed
-Black is for suits - Agreed
-Brown is almost always better than black unless your color range that day is entirely "city" - Agreed
-Calf should never be burg; burg is for shell - Disagree (see my crust calf Inverness )
-No loafers with suits - Disagree. Loafers can be worn with summer suits, think cotton/linen
-Bulky shoes can be OK with worsteds and other lightweight clothes but dainty shoes look ridiculous with heavy clothes - Strongly disagree. Bulky shoes should not be worn with a suit unless medically prescribed.
-It's easier to wear a dark shoe with a light suit than the reverse - Agree, but I break this rule often
-Shell and suede are for fall/winter - Disagree. Suede can be worn year-round. Not into shell but since they wear warm, OK.
-Tan is for spring/summer - Agree/disagree.


Partial exceptions:

-Full brogues are OK with tweed odd jackets - Agreed, but I also wear them with flannel suits (browns)
-Black, if it is not an oxford, can be worn with a blazer and grays - Black, if it is not an oxford or a slipper should not be worn period
-Sleek, unlined suede loafers are OK with tweed - I guess
-White and dirty bucks (i.e., suede) are for summer - My pair are the milkshake saddle shoes, would never wear bucks, dirty or otherwise.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

My list, based on a more casual lifestyle. I could live with only the following shoes:

JL City II in black calf
EG Galway in dark oak grain & walnut country calf
EG Dover in brown grain calf
GG St. James in vintage cherry calf
GG Wigmore in burgundy grain & vintage burgundy calf

This also substitutes as my personal grail list.