Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Streamlined Shoe Wardrobe

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Mar 5, 2013.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Inspired by NOBD.

    So, in the taste thread we don't focus on shoes. The reason is part photographic laziness, but also owing to the fact that shoes are far from your face and far easier to get right--if you know the basics. Foo aside, you can get by with just six pairs if you choose the right pairs and wear them wisely.

    Some basic principles first:

    -Oxfords are for suits
    -Black is for suits
    -Brown is almost always better than black unless your color range that day is entirely "city"
    -Calf should never be burg; burg is for shell
    -No loafers with suits
    -Bulky shoes can be OK with worsteds and other lightweight clothes but dainty shoes look ridiculous with heavy clothes
    -It's easier to wear a dark shoe with a light suit than the reverse
    -Shell and suede are for fall/winter
    -Tan is for spring/summer


    Partial exceptions:

    -Full brogues are OK with tweed odd jackets
    -Black, if it is not an oxford, can be worn with a blazer and grays
    -Sleek, unlined suede loafers are OK with tweed
    -White and dirty bucks (i.e., suede) are for summer


    The list:

    1) Black stitch caps. For funerals, job interviews, Important Meetings, and whenever you must be the ne plus ultra of CBD
    2) Brown punch caps. The ultimate suit shoe, gorgeous and goes with virtually everything; could sub this one for a brown half or full brogue
    3) A thick-soled blucher or longwing in brown textured calf or burg shell. Think the foo shoe, ed's Dinelackers, JL Russell, or one of those Vass $hitkickers. Perfect for any fall/winter odd jacket and good with most fall/winter suits
    4) Tan monks. Good for summer suits or odd jackets, wearable the rest of the year
    5) #8 shell or mink suede loafers. Dark enough for a blazer, grays and a white shirt but also colorful enough for day; better than lace-ups for most no-tie outfits
    6) Tobacco suede oxford: goes with all suits from Labor Day to Memorial Day; wear it with odd jackets as long as I don't see you
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I realize this is light on summer shoes. So, of the above, buy the best quality you can afford. Then get a pair of dirty bucks, which are cheap. Done.
     


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I call and raise.

    Three pairs:
    Medium brown calf chelsea
    Dark brown suede chelsea
    Black chelsea

    Complete shoe wardrobe!
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    More seriously, I have become more flexible on your first basic principle. Now I'm thinking it's more about the slimness of the trou. Admittedly, maybe that's because I so rarely wear suits.

    Also, shell is coarse stuff. It has lost my favor except in rare application.

    Also also, I'm off monks completely.
     


  5. Thanks SF (a new me)

    Thanks SF (a new me) Senior member

    Messages:
    1,267
    Likes Received:
    109
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2011
    Location:
    Chicagoland area
    "6) Tobacco suede oxford: goes with all suits from Labor Day to Memorial Day; wear it with odd jackets as long as I don't see you"

    :crackup: I am curious as I am planning to obtain one, If you can please elaborate sir, the odd jacket pairing...Thanks....
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I don't like oxfords with OJs
     


  7. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,787
    Likes Received:
    3,023
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    1. Black plain cap toe Oxford
    2. Brown punched cap toe Oxford
    3. Medium brown suede punched cap toe Derby (with medallion a.k.a semi brogue over here in Europe)
    4. Dark brown Balmoral boot
    5. Medium brown grain Derby boot
    6. Burgundy penny loafers (in Shell of course)

    Could never be without at least 2 boots where I live (COOOOOOOOLD).
     


  8. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,625
    Likes Received:
    1,171
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    This is great.

    I might replace the tan monks with a pair of brown chukkas, probably calf, possibly suede. Great with odd jackets, especially during the fall and winter. If with a dainite sole, can also be good bad weather shoes.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  9. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,273
    Likes Received:
    2,264
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    1. Black punch cap balmoral (I just prefer these to stitch caps)
    2. Brown punch cap balmoral
    3. Chestnut brown monkstrap
    4. Black half brogue // Drummond-style austerity brogue
    5. Black loafer
    6. Brown loafer

    If I wore more heavy tweeds and flannels I would probably put a blucher somewhere in here, but as things are now, I have an inherent dislike of bluchers. I also do not have to wear a suit and tie everyday, so loafers have a bit more use for me.
     


  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Likes Received:
    1,106
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    1) Black cap toe Oxford.
    2) Brown semi brogue Oxford. More versatile than brown quarter brogue Oxford IMo.
    3) Wingtip blucher or boots. (Tricker's Stow).
    4) Mid Brown NST. (EG Dover or SC PC NST)
    5) Suede chukka.
    6) Austerity brogue Oxford. Not for everyone but I love them. (JL 2009).

    I personally much prefer drivers/slippers than loafers. And in the situations that I would wear loafers, chukka or NST works just as we'll.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  11. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Likes Received:
    1,826
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    How light could one go on #3? Would the classic chesnut grain LWB work, or would it be a shade too light?

    Would #2 work in burg shell, if you wear more tweed jackets than worsted suits?
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Likes Received:
    1,106
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    

    Why get a fairly formal shoes, a punch cap, with fairly rugged leather, cordovan?
     


  13. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

    Messages:
    4,035
    Likes Received:
    1,651
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    Surprised to see a boot absent from your list, Manton (either dress boot or a more casual chukka). Weather reasons aside, they can also add a good bit of character to more casual or semi-formal looks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2013


  14. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

    Messages:
    2,970
    Likes Received:
    279
    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2010
    don't agree with a lot of that. don't have the time to explain at this point.
     


  15. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,345
    Likes Received:
    1,826
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2012
    I'm sorry, I should have made that more clear -- he mentioned that a full brogue would be an acceptable substitute for the punch cap. A shell punch cap would be a little odd to me, though I've seen Aldens. Certainly not an essential.

    The question I should have asked:

    Would a burg shell full brogue be an acceptable substitute for the brown punch caps, if one wore tweed jackets much more often than suits?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by