St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

[sforum1]

What he said ??. I would go so far as to say requires much more maintenance.

The crust leather is dyed in house so the color is not steadfast. Consequently, the shoes will look more "antiqued" or used without continuous maintenance.

If you are like myself, you are too lazy for that sort of upkeep. Hence, I stay on the Aniline train ?.

Very true.

For me, EG requires the most maintenance. It's actually really bad.

Vass and JL, nothing at all to worry about there. Just some cream (does not even have to be every time you wear them but whenever you feel like it) buff it out and you are ready to go. But it is true that they don't have the same depth in color you get with EG. Even though that's not to say that EG is better, it's just a matter of preference I guess.

I find G&G to be somewhere in the middle. What is G&G is using? Definitely does not feel like aniline the way Vass and JL do, but it's not as bad as EG either.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Indeed, regarding maintenance. EG, for example, a lot more difficult to maintain than say Vass. But with aniline, can the shoemaker still do additional work on top of that and how often is that done? For example, antiquing. Or is the answer automatically no and that's why we don't see any antiquing on Vass shoes?

The work is done but it takes time to get it done properly (like 90 minutes or so). May not have the time for it, or enough skilled guys to do it. If they just finger polish it, that will wear off rather quickly.

Very true.

For me, EG requires the most maintenance. It's actually really bad.

Vass and JL, nothing at all to worry about there. Just some cream (does not even have to be every time you wear them but whenever you feel like it) buff it out and you are ready to go. But it is true that they don't have the same depth in color you get with EG.

I find G&G to be somewhere in the middle. What is G&G using. Definitely does not feel like aniline the way Vass and JL do, but it's not as bad as EG either.

That's a good question. GG probably has people do subtle burnishing.

 

[Patrick1053]

What’s the difference between crust and aniline leather, and how do differences practically impact wear? I really wish STC’s online customization tool told users a bit about the uppers.

I had that same question on my first pair. I went with crust calf and I regret it. (Especially cause the shoes are black)

 

[Neville Southall]

I had that same question on my first pair. I went with crust calf and I regret it. (Especially cause the shoes are black)

See, THIS is the type of honest feedback that we all need. Please elaborate on your regret. Thank you, good sir.

 

[Patrick1053]

See, THIS is the type of honest feedback that we all need. Please elaborate on your regret. Thank you, good sir.

The StC crust calf creasing is much more than anyone else at this price point. Also, I was not pleased with some of the imperfections in the crust calf. The grain was not uniform, and there were severe very minor nicks and scratches right out of the box. Here is the worst defect.

Please take this with a grain of salt. The leather is very nice. It is thicker than other crust calves I have worn, but the imperfections seemed sub-par for the price point. A positive aspect is that I like the way the polish is taking to the shoes, and it has helped a lot with those minor defects.

 

[sforum1]

I think we can all agree that there are some practical benefits to going with aniline and crust you only go for it because you like the look and the particular differences in the finish and how it ages. But this is all largely theoretical until you see it in real life or examples of it. What I would really be interested in is to see pics of St. Crispin's side by side, one aniline and one crust. Ideally, they would both have to be St. Csrispin's pairs in order to fit away any other differences between shoemakers that would cause the comparison to be distorted.

I only have one pair of StC in crust leather and that broken glass effect that is created as the shoes age, I have to say I hate it but I'm also in love with it since it's something unique.

 

[Neville Southall]

The StC crust calf creasing is much more than anyone else at this price point. Also, I was not pleased with some of the imperfections in the crust calf. The grain was not uniform, and there were severe very minor nicks and scratches right out of the box. Here is the worst defect.
View attachment 1505992

Please take this with a grain of salt. The leather is very nice. It is thicker than other crust calves I have worn, but the imperfections seemed sub-par for the price point. A positive aspect is that I like the way the polish is taking to the shoes, and it has helped a lot with those minor defects.

And with that, I have made up my mind. Thank you.

 

[Patrick1053]

I think we can all agree that there are some practical benefits to going with aniline and crust you only go for it because you like the look and the particular differences in the finish and how it ages. But this is all largely theoretical until you see it in real life or examples of it. What I would really be interested in is to see pics of St. Crispin's side by side, one aniline and one crust. Ideally, they would both have to be St. Csrispin's pairs in order to fit away any other factors between shoemakers that would cause the comparison to be distorted.

I only have one pair of StC in crust leather and that broken glass effect that is created as the shoes age, I have to say I hate it but I'm also in love with it since it's something unique.

The "breaking glass effect" is a good way of saying it. I don't like it and I don't understand it.

 

[Patrick1053]

And with that, I have made up my mind. Thank you.

 

[sforum1]

First one is aniline, second crust. Both StC. Though not good pics to see that, you can detect how the aniline is lacking that depth of the crust. Not sure how to better explain it but the aniline feels more "plasticky" and a lot more uniform in color (actually perfectly uniform).

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I don't own StC in crust. From when I was at their trunk shows, I saw plenty of people using the crust leather in their shoes.

I appreciate the beauty and age that a pair of crusted shoes exhibit. The shoes take on the characteristics that their owners put into them. Essentially, they become an extension of the wearer. A few of the guys I met at the shows mentioned that is the kind of character you can't put a price on.

Saying that, I have enough character within me to keep most entertained. Boring old aniline, suede, or grained leathers for me thank you very much. ?

 

[jischwar]

I don't own StC in crust. From when I was at their trunk shows, I saw plenty of people using the crust leather in their shoes.

I appreciate the beauty and age that a pair of crusted shoes exhibit. The shoes take on the characteristics that their owners put into them. Essentially, they become an extension of the wearer. A few of the guys I met at the shows mentioned that is the kind of character you can't put a price on.

Saying that, I have enough character within me to keep most entertained. Boring old aniline, suede, or grained leathers for me thank you very much. ?

As an aside, picked up some Zonkey Boot crust and the creasing was instant. It's obviously a characteristic of the leather itself

 

[nishant]

My 0.02

Construction aside, the quality of calf or crust leather used by StC at their price point leaves a ton to be desired. It is personal preference maybe but I have sampled my fair share and would rather go with grained leather, suede or Shell when presented with an option.

The leather quality employed by EG or JL is superior and most retailers I know who carry all these brands unanimously agree.

I think of AM and GG as a beautiful middle ground .. with a well made shoe and not so conservative a presentation.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

My 0.02

Construction aside, the quality of calf or crust leather used by StC at their price point leaves a ton to be desired. It is personal preference maybe but I have sampled my fair share and would rather go with grained leather, suede or Shell when presented with an option.

The leather quality employed by EG or JL is superior and most retailers I know who carry all these brands unanimously agree.

I think of AM and GG as a beautiful middle ground .. with a well made shoe and not so conservative a presentation.

I begrudgingly would concur with that comment. Mostly because I find AMs vintage and aniline leathers easily on par with EG or JL.

I would agree that StC's leather handfeel and used appearance falls below EG, JL, AM, and GG. Nishant mentioned the construction differences which none of those makers (apart from AM) has that sort of solid sturdy feel.

I can also say, if I were being honest, if you don't particularly like that sturdy locked-in feeling or you don't get the proper fit (to me they are not mutually exclusive) I would urge those to purchase ZB, Passus, or even Vass instead.

You may or may not sacrifice finishing details. You would also know the leather used for your shoes (at least with Passus). Most importantly you would save substantial money if you decided to pursue a commission with the other three companies I mentioned.

Having said, I am partial towards StC because I get a superior fit. I select aniline, suede, or a grain (sorry @nishant I fought too hard against Cordovan and I surrender) and I've been pleased.

Speaking of fit, that is why I advise against guys picking up a pair when a good deal comes around (e.g. BLK FRI.) if the sizing is off. 75% of the pleasure of owning a pair of StC is the fit.

 

[Mallaig]

I begrudgingly would concur with that comment. Mostly because I find AMs vintage and aniline leathers easily on par with EG or JL.

I would agree that StC's leather handfeel and used appearance falls below EG, JL, AM, and GG. Nishant mentioned the construction differences which none of those makers (apart from AM) has that sort of solid sturdy feel.

I can also say, if I were being honest, if you don't particularly like that sturdy locked-in feeling or you don't get the proper fit (to me they are not mutually exclusive) I would urge those to purchase ZB, Passus, or even Vass.

You may or may not sacrifice finishing details. You would also know the leather used for your shoes (at least with Passus). Most importantly you would save substantial money if you decided to pursue a commission with the other three companies I mentioned.

Having said, I am partial towards StC because I get a superior fit. I select aniline, suede, or a grain (sorry @nishant I fought too hard against Cordovan and I surrender) and I've been pleased.

Which is also why I advise against guys picking up a pair when a good deal comes around (e.g. BLK FRI.) if the sizing is off. 75% of the pleasure of owning a pair of StC is the fit.

Agree with the point on fit and the quality of construction. I also like the styling of StC which I find quite different to that of EG. In this years BLK FRI sale I went for a fur lined boot which I expect is less sensitive to fit.

My plan is to continue to add more shoes and boots with StC on a customized last. Next up is either a suede galway-esq boot, or a chukkah in distressed calf.