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St. Crispin's Appreciation Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jul 22, 2011.

  1. patliean1

    patliean1 Senior member

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    I can not scientifically prove this, but I believe all my hand-welted shoes are more "drafty" or "airy" than my Goodyear welted counterparts. Single leather soles that is.

    What I mean is that especially in cooler weather my feet seem to get colder faster and stay colder longer in hand welted than Goodyear. Has anyone else experienced this?
     
  2. tdes81

    tdes81 Senior member

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    Have not noticed this myself, but maybe if your handwelted shoes fit better/tighter (I know my St. Crispins are quite snug) there's less air acting as insulation inside the shoe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    I've noticed no difference here - or in any other way, really - as between my GYW and HW shoes and boots. I do have naturally warm feet though - could never wear shearling lined boots, for example - so this particular issue is not one I'm likely to perceive in any event.
     
  4. Handcuffed

    Handcuffed Senior member

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    Does anyone have the contact information for StC directly? I had a MTO boot through Leatherfoot with a slightly customized last and I'd like to reach out to St. Crispin's directly to see if I can work with them to continue having it made.
     
  5. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    Last edited: Dec 5, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  6. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think there is some science to this. Hand welted shoes have a thicker leather insole and only a thin later of cork between the insole and outsole (if anything at all in some cases). Goodyear welted shoes have a thinner leather insole and a ton of cork between the insole and outsole. My guess is that the glue that is mixed together with the cork is somewhat more occlusive than pure leather, which is breathable. The occlusive nature of the cork and glue filler could make the shoe that has more of it wear warmer. Just my thoughts.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2016
    2 people like this.
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    You'd need some super sensitive feet, I imagine, to feel that difference.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd think so too, but it doesn't discount the explanation. There have been posters that have said dianite soles make their feet get hot. Who knows...
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2016
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Anyone have experience with JAN 076, by chance?

    The StC Americas online store shows it to be a mid-brown color. Maybe with a slight greyish cast.

    [​IMG]

    These photos from The Armoury, however, show it to be much more grey than brown (in the second photo, JAN 076 is the second swatch from the left)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Same with this Skoak photo.

    [​IMG]

    Is it indeed more grey than brown?
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2016
  10. Sactogeoff

    Sactogeoff Well-Known Member

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    I can't answer this question, but I can say there appears to have been a change with their retailers and strategy since the introduction of The Americas. I was in a soon to be former STC retailer this weekend and then a competitor and both of them implied changes coming. For what it's worth, if anyone is interested in buying out a retailer's "sizing pairs" aka floor models ( very limited selection), shoot me a PM and I'll send you the details. They are blowing them out CHEAP. Sadly, the ones I tried did not fit. I seriously considered buying them and doing the dunk in water, stretch like crazy method. But ended up passing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  11. Itsuo

    Itsuo Senior member

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    I was just at the new StC Americas showroom recently and was told that the new online photos are the most accurate color corrected images that they have ever put out there. So while other images may show some nuance or subtle hues that differentiate from the new images on its site, I believe the retailer's own advice would be to go with the new photo.

    I have personal experience with KUD 076 and while it is a warmer lighter color than that image of the JAN, it is my favorite of the suedes.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Armoury photos are the most accurate ones. It's a kinda cold, grayish brown. Lovely colour, that would be easy to wear.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    Depending on the lighting my pair of 076 can show something that resembles a dark loden / brown mix

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  14. patliean1

    patliean1 Senior member

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    Is janus (JAN) more robust than nubuck (presumably BCK)?

    My pair of adelaides in BCK 078 scuff like crazy, down to the black.
     
  15. Anm1984

    Anm1984 Senior member

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    My 3 pairs of suede are all Jan, I wear them hard and have zero issues. I can't comment about bck directly though.
     
  16. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    Info send to you messenger
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    I too have a pair in Janus, and it wears really good. Can recommend it.
     
  18. Jazzmenco

    Jazzmenco Senior member

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    Early Christmas present.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  19. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

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    Good Lord they are beautiful.
     
  20. Jazzmenco

    Jazzmenco Senior member

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    Thanks @tifosi, you can see why I couldn't resist them
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2016

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