shirt shrinkage

[SartodiNapoli]

Maybe were not from the real best 3 or 4 mills, or if were, were 120/2 or lower fabrics?

Sure the real good never shrinks as already has been on the finishing

We are talking of fabrics over 35 euros meter.

. We add 0% tolerance for shrink when producing with those fabrics while a lot with poor fabrics as Canclini per example, that some people believes is a good mill while
is not.

 

[Shirtmaven]

all 100% cotton shrinks.
if you wash by hand and hang dry, shrinkage will be greatly reduced.

but if shirts go out to a commercial cleaner, no matter how good, there will be shrinkage

these days, I have seen sleeves stretch. this is on some twills.
this is due to the robotic pressing equipment used by commercial laundries.

1/4" is being a tiny bit OCD. just have them shorten the sleeves a 1/4" and leave the fabric inside the cuff

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I don't believe you. Cotton shrinks, even when sanforized, or whatever.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



all 100% cotton shrinks.
if you wash by hand and hang dry, shrinkage will be greatly reduced.

but if shirts go out to a commercial cleaner, no matter how good, there will be shrinkage

these days, I have seen sleeves stretch. this is on some twills.
this is due to the robotic pressing equipment used by commercial laundries.

1/4" is being a tiny bit OCD. just have them shorten the sleeves a 1/4" and leave the fabric inside the cuff

Yeah, I wash all of my own shirts in my washer and hang them to dry. I think I am just going to do as you suggested and leave some margin still in the cuff.

 

[Shirtmaven]



Maybe were not from the real best 3 or 4 mills, or if were, were 120/2 or lower fabrics?

Sure the real good never shrinks as already has been on the finishing

We are talking of fabrics over 35 euros meter.

. We add 0% tolerance for shrink when producing with those fabrics while a lot with poor fabrics as Canclini per example, that some people believes is a good mill while
is not. 

we add in shrinkage for Alumo fabrics as well as Grandi & rubenelli.

who knows where canclini fabric is being produced.

At least monti admits to having mills in the Czech republic and India

 

[SartodiNapoli]

we add in shrinkage for Alumo fabrics as well as Grandi & rubenelli.

who knows where canclini fabric is being produced.

At least monti admits to having mills in the Czech republic and India

What does the shrinkage is the mechanical movement on the drum of the washing machine that compacts the wave, even it comes mercericed. ( I have been teached, not that i got any degree in textiles) but never occured me on the real good ones, only on a test with hot water ( and was a poor fabric)

Canclini seems done in ex soviet republics as Romania ( maybe Czech Republic? as you said) or close and Monti does in Italy the good products( that i know, maybe even not ) and outside the average.

Cheers

 

[patrickBOOTH]

FWIW, I hate fabrics over 120/2 or whatever. They feel nice, but they don't hold up as well. I'll take 80/3 anyday over that luxe stuff.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

FWIW, I hate fabrics over 120/2 or whatever. They feel nice, but they don't hold up as well. I'll take 80/3 anyday over that luxe stuff.

What is 80/ three ply? Do you mean /2?

No offense, but normal it does shrinks, that is a poor cotton that no good Neapolitan shirt maker uses. It bytes as hell on the skin and cost a few euros.

120 is the minimun we use for bespoke, being mainly 170 and 200, incluiding Riva most of the time.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Just because it isn't super smooth doesn't mean it is "poor". What is your criteria for "poor"? It seems like to you it means soft. To me those superfine cloths are poor because they aren't durable in the least. Cheap cloth and shrinkage I don't think are necessarily correlated.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Anything over 120 is bullshit, imo. Sounds like you're just trying to upsell.

 

[Shirtmaven]

3 ply construction is quite rare.
Alumo makes triplo
years ago I had a pinpoint oxford from japan that was 3/120 x 2/80
odd construction , but it was durable yet softer.

i like 120/2 for a basic shirt.
I doubt Riva is finishing their fabrics with resins, to make the fabric slick feeling.
albini has a quality called Piuma it is a 70/1 compact yarn(very dense construction)
but it is finished with a lot of resin, I do not like it, but it is popular.
140/2-200/2 can be nice, but you lose longevity of the shirt with the finer yarns.

and the new compact yarn construction is prone to stretching in commercial laundries

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Anything over 120 is bullshit, imo. Sounds like you're just trying to upsell.

Without arguing, i do not know if your message is trolling or on the contrary puts on evidence your totally lack of knowledge of the industry but just an attempt to attack me.

The Neapolitan shirtmakers have been using 170/2 and over way since those were on the market and as Riva, are way before i was born, same about other shirtmakers based in NYC.

I could have gone London or other world city since I am not Neapolitan but choose( and got the luck of being accepted as if a was a family member) to be here with what i consider are the best alive in the world.

Waste of time and energy to have people as that bullshiting a forum and trying to offend others. Well, people do not like the truth, and the quality, here another example.

Last, i do not get any cent charged to the fabrics. So i earn the same, only for doing a shirt, even i do a 100/2 that a 330 ( that sure exist but is not the ultimate) ( so again you are wrong on ; "Sounds like you're just trying to upsell"

3 ply construction is quite rare.
Alumo makes triplo
years ago I had a pinpoint oxford from japan that was 3/120 x 2/80
odd construction , but it was durable yet softer.

i like 120/2 for a basic shirt.
I doubt Riva is finishing their fabrics with resins, to make the fabric slick feeling.
albini has a quality called Piuma it is a 70/1 compact yarn(very dense construction)
but it is finished with a lot of resin, I do not like it, but it is popular.
140/2-200/2 can be nice, but you lose longevity of the shirt with the finer yarns.

and the new compact yarn construction is prone to stretching in commercial laundries

So, as i knew the offender poster who i answered before got any idea about.

The only 3 ply fabric i have seen was that Alumo, never used it but a client of mine told me was poor to perspirate. Too dense.

I have also heard about 4 ply for wool, but never seen it. I have low knowledge about wool anyway.

The other came the Grandi & Rubinelli comercial visited us to bring us the new coffin ( 7 kilos, so bad for a trunk show taking it on a plane), it was different than the book i got personally on their factory a few years ago that is a document folder like. 2 or 3 kilos.

We curiously talked about Albini, as he worked there for years and agreed on what you and also me say, Albini ( Thomas Mason) fabrics feels as a plastic bag and are too compacted.

He told me " gum" ( used that word) was added on the finishing among tons of ammoniacal. I never thought " plastic" was used for real, only thought was a coincidence on the feeling, but i was wrong.

I never liked Albini/ Mason, jus like a few top line DJ Anderson that also are overpriced compared to similar( and better) products as Monti 170-200 etc.. There is another called Albini called Piumino 100 or 120 that imitates Alumo 120 but feels plasticon the contrary. Cost 10 euros less, so has a lot of commercial success around.

A customer who asks 200/2 fabrics do wash them by machine and with agressive detergent, and maybe even on driers, OMG? Then as you say, the shirt is not going to last. Is like washing a Maserati or similar on an automatic gas station wash, the paint is gonna be destroyed inmediately.


Albini agent ( not this, but an agent, as bad as most country agents are, those who got any idea but want an % added for doing nothing as resending an email order to the factory) asked for my private client list. Can you believe it? I said the spirit of Ronald Reagan and tomorrow comes the Sultan of Brunei, then denunced her to Albini headquarters for being against the basic ethic and law ( European Data Protection law) so i do not work with Albini. Anyway, only wanted the DJ Anderson book, but told me i should pay 750 for the full awful Mason books instead with 60 to 100 fabrics mainly, so told them i do not use them, no way.

Just because it isn't super smooth doesn't mean it is "poor". What is your criteria for "poor"? It seems like to you it means soft. To me those superfine cloths are poor because they aren't durable in the least. Cheap cloth and shrinkage I don't think are necessarily correlated.

Poor not on the price cost, but poor on quality. Not soft related, is simply low to average quality, and not the fabric that should be used to do a tons of hours of work by hand. A 3 cilinder engine. Takes you back home, low gas consume, but is not anything that people desires to have ( or at least me) sure better than walking on a rainy day but i won't call them " bullshit" as you said about top fabrics.

Cheap cloth and shirkage are not necessariley correlated, sure, but sadly most of the cases are. Same as the most expensive shirting, DJ Anderson on this case, is not the best, as their agressive marketing says.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Without arguing, i do not know if your message is trolling or on the contrary puts on evidence your totally lack of knowledge of the industry but just an attempt to attack me.

Ironic considering much all of your blather on Style Forum is pompous and didactic.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Acorn Cambridge is 80/3. I have many shirts made with it. There are threads (pun intended) about how Riva cotton shirts have fallen apart. They aren't durable, so by my criteria, they are garbage. Also by your, and other's criteria of "poor" being that poor quality shirting shrinks my initial post was stating how my new shirts haven't shrunk. So are they still poor in your eyes? Guess what? They are 100/2 and will withstand more wearings than your silky smooth Riva nonsense.

 

[Shirtmaven]

The rubinelli coffin is a fine in the shop. not to travel with.

gum=resins. same thing
most mills(not riva which is cottage industry, nor alumo) use Resins/gums to a certain extent.
the thomas mason fabric used by J. Crew does not have resins. , it also seems to have a lighter construction then normal. the enzyme wash, post shirt production,
is the reason the shirt feels like you have had it for years.


I like the triplo. i made myself one shirt in white
I don't wear white shirts all that often, so I do not have much of an opinion. i think i wore it once.

80/3 is an odd construction for an oxford cloth.
I won't go near Acorn fabrics, for a variety of reasons that i have expressed elsewhere on this forum.

I have an older shirt made from Ferno 100/2 that feels better with age. very natural finish.

I prefer a slightly denser lower yarn count myself.
Rubenilli produces an 80/2 pinpoint weave that feels great.
they start with high quality yarns.

FYI, My low priced fabric importing friend had brought in fabric from china.
the customers loved it because it did not wrinkle.
we found out later, it had been coated with a thin layer of plastic pellets.