Rule for Amount of Cloth?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Classic Car, Jul 23, 2012.

  1. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    My size is 40 short, 5' 7" height, 40" chest, 34" waist, pants with 29 " inseam. My tailor's information about amount of cloth is always inconsistence. If I need 2 yards for a SB jacket and 1.5 yards for trousers, why 3.25 yards is enough a 2 pc SB suit and why 3.6 yards is enough for a 3pc SB suit, 4.25 yards for a SB jacket with 2 pants? I would highly appreciated if somebody can show me about a tailor put patterns configuration on cloth for a SB/ DB jacket, jacket with trousers, jacket with trousers & vest, jacket with 2 pairs of trousers, jacket with vest & 2 pairs of trousers.

    Have a nice day.

    Classic Car
     


  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    It is because the 'unused' cloth left could be adjoined to make another item.
     


  3. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Or play it safe in case of errors
     


  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Might also be pattern matching issues. That adds to required lengths.
     


  5. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    I am talking about solid colors only.
     


  6. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Best to listen to your tailor regarding amount of cloth needed.
     


  7. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Without understanding the cloth calculation method, I have no choice but only listen to my tailor. Unfortunately, he is very inconsistent.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He is not inconsistent, he is using exact amounts and saving you money by not buying extra and wasting cloth.

    The more pieces you cut from one length of cloth requires less cloth than if you cut them separately. When you cut a pair of trousers from 1 1/2 yards you have wasted cloth form the way the pattern pieces fit. You need 2 yards to cut a jacket. When you cut a suit you can overlap pattern pieces and fill in empty spaces with smaller pattern pieces and trimmings and use less cloth. That's why he needs 3 1/4 to cut a suit and 2 and 1 1/2 to cut a jacket and a trouser separately. Why don't you ask him to explain or show you what he does?

    I think I answered this once before for you
     


  9. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Dear Despos,

    Thank you so much.
    The reason why I ask because my tailor also receive orders from retail tailor shops which my friend use. Initally, I found out he always require me 20% more cloth than he requires from retail tailor shop. For me, such as 2.5 yd for a jacket, 3.75 yd for a 2pc suit and 5 yds with extra trousers for solid colours only. As you may remember, he rejected me to make a jacket with a vest (front ) with 2.4 yds. My tailor always requires me to buy more cloth because my total price will be closer to the retail shop which my friend use. Even he requires me more cloth, totally, I am still cheaper than going to the retail shop directly. But to me, it is no meaning to waste more cloth and spend more money.

    Many thanks
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you provide him cloth I understand why he would want extra cloth. It is hard for me to understand your last post or what you want to know.
     


  11. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Dear Depos,

    I regret to explain my situation insufficiently.

    In orderfor me to prevent wasting money for buying unnecessary extra cloth, I want to know how much cloth I need for some combinations such as SB jacket + 2 trousers; SB + vest + 2 trousers; DB jacket + 2 trousers etc (all in solid color).

    Have a nice weekend.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ask your tailor, but it is normal for him to ask you to bring extra because you are sourcing the cloth and if he has a problem he cannot be guaranteed that more is available. It is common to find flaws in the cloth especially when it is being resold over the internet.
     


  13. Lord Mulberry

    Lord Mulberry Senior member

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    You'd be looking at 3 metres for a two-piece suit, but if the cloth is patterned it could be more.
     


  14. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Thank you Depos, from my experience, it is not a good idea to buy cloth from individual through internet. Best way is to go to fabric house, I can see and feel the cloth. If there is any problem, just return it back.
     


  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes. It also depends on the pile or grain as well. For example velvets and corduroy requires more because it all has to be cut in the same direction.
     


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