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Romantic Europe meets NYC: the ROBERT GELLER thread

pickpackpockpuck

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Inspired by the recent additions of some dedicated designer threads, I thought I'd make one for Robert Geller since he's a favorite of mine and I think his work can sustain a conversation. Please add to it. Geller is very open to discussing his work, so there's plenty of information out there. If you find something you like, post it here. And pics of clothes, especially detail shots, are always welcome.

Robert Geller introduced his first solo menswear collection in New York in A/W 2007. The German-born designer was then already known for his work with award-winning line Cloak, the cult-NYC label founded by Alexandre Plokhov that Geller helped to revitalize. Geller and Plokhov did four seasons together for Cloak, from spring 2003 to fall 2004, before Geller left to launch a short-lived womenswear line called Harald. Then, in 2006, Geller was approached with an offer to create a menswear line in his name. The debut collection was an immediate success, one that proved to be the first of many over the years. Since then, the designer has done noteworthy collaborations with Common Projects and Levi's, and Geller's line has continued to receive accolades. In 2009, GQ and the CFDA gave Geller the title of Best New Menswear Designer in America, and in 2011 Geller topped nominees Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim to win the CFDA's Swarovski award for menswear. Over the years, Geller's clothes have shown increasing sophistication—compare S/S2012 with the S/S2008 collection called "Beuys Don't Cry," for instance—and the label's aesthetic can be summed up as Romantic European elegance mixed with hard-edged New York toughness.

Additional bio information:
http://robertgeller-ny.com/rg_top_bk.html

ROBERT GELLER INTERVIEWS
In (roughly) chronological order.

Feb. 2006 (talking about his womenswear line, Harald) - http://www.refinery29.com/dark-knight
May 2007 - http://www.refinery29.com/the-specials-1
July 2008 - http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f6...erview-scoute-magazine-july-2008-a-70125.html
Dec. 2008 - http://frillr.com/?q=node/10917
Feb. 2009 - http://www.refinery29.com/robert-geller-contemplates-his
S/S 2009 - http://www.details.com/style-advice...esigners-who-will-change-mens-fashion#slide=5
July 2009 - http://www.themalcolm.com/robert-geller/
July 2009 - http://www.valetmag.com/style/profiles-features/2009/three-questions-for-robert-geller-072009.php/
July 2009 - http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/07/28/asked-and-answered-robert-geller/
Sep. 2009 - http://hypebeast.com/2009/08/robert-gellar-interview-by-mike-kobal/
Sep. 2009 - http://fabricmag.com/fabric-magazine-fashion/robert-geller-spring-summer-2010/
F/W 2009 - http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/fashion-week-questionnaire-robert-geller#_
Nov. 2009 - http://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/2009/11/lerario_geller?currentPage=1
Sep. 2010 - http://www.valetmag.com/style/fashion-shows/spring-summer-2011/impromptu-interview-robert-geller.php
S/S 2011 - http://video.mag4style.com/view/s9im46321/robert-geller-s-s-2011-videofashion/
April 2011 - http://theblock-mag.com/robert-geller/
June 2011 - http://www.details.com/blogs/daily-...is-favorite-look-from-his-new-collection.html
Aug. 2011 - http://blindbarber.tumblr.com/post/9087165750/the-perfect-cut-with-robert-geller
Sep. 2011 - http://www.grungygentleman.com/2011/10/robert-geller-spring-2012-new-york.html
Dec. 2011 - http://coolistheessence.tumblr.com/post/8047740108/filthavenue-robert-geller-manstyle-daily-in
Dec. 2011 - http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion...article/11344/1/robert-geller-womenswear-ss12
Feb. 2012 - http://blog.styleforum.net/?p=751
April 2012 - http://www.parkandbond.com/the-intersection/men-of-style/robert-geller-day-in-the-life-style-diary

ROBERT GELLER STOCKISTS
Acrimony
Aloha Rag
Always Never
Ambush
Assembly New York
Barney's
Basquiat
Behaviour New York
Bird
Blackbird
Black Parrot
Confederacy
The Corner
Forward Forward
Frances May
Fred Segal Man (shop via Farfetch)
Gravity Pope
Harvey Nichols Hong Kong
I Don't Like Mondays
Michel Brisson
Moda
Nomad
Owen NYC
Park & Bond
Reborn
Roden Gray
Sanahunt
Shine
Ssense
Stels
Stuart and Wright

Geller pieces can also frequently be found on:
Yahoo! Japan
Zozo

Rather than include here all the runway images, which are easy enough to find, I'm going to list the inspiration for each season. If someone would like to post up all the individual images, however, please feel free to do so.

INSPIRATION

A/W 2007 - Jean-Paul Belmondo in the 1960s

S/S 2008 - 1970s skate culture in Venice, California, and the Z-boys in particular; the work of German artist Joseph Beuys; James Dean and other rebels

A/W 2008 - The work of an early 19th-century Prussian naturalist (hence the well-known Prussian coat)

S/S 2009 - Gypsies and Eastern European tough-guy ideals of masculinity

F/W 2009 - Menswear in Vienna at the turn of the 20th century, a place and period Geller calls one of the most elegant in menswear

S/S 2010 - Germans in the late 1950s vacationing in the North Sea. Geller wanted to "lift moods." German artist Michael Sowa was one inspiration, as was "the power of color to influence emotion."

F/W 2010 - Geller wanted to "to marry upscale, uptown luxury with an indie rocker vibe," and called it "a nice mix of the downtown guy playing with the elements of old school suiting." He said it was "a tribute to the beauty of mixing wardrobe elements that don’t always seem to fit."

S/S 2011 - Germany's rebellious youth culture in the late 60s (the "wide awake youth"), in particular the German Student Movement of 1968. Regarding the colors in the collection, he wanted to "take them apart." He doesn't like primary colors, but within red he loves the "bordeauxs and pinks, and mixing them together is sort of beautiful."

F/W 2011 - Italian filmmaker Luchino Visconti's "German Trilogy"—The Damned (1969), Death in Venice (1971), and Ludwig (1973)

S/S 2012 - Geller said his inspiration was "a new direction of silhouettes for men." You can hear him talk about his ideas here— http://blindbarber.tumblr.com/post/9087165750/the-perfect-cut-with-robert-geller—and find some great detail pics of this collection (beyond the typical runway shots) here—http://models.com/oftheminute/?p=34846

F/W 2012 - Classic English menswear with youthful and energetic influences from the early '80s post-punk scene.

GELLER MINI-COLLABS

Robert Geller x Ann Taylor. "As part of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, the nominees were challenged to create a look for Ann Taylor, blending their aesthetics with the Ann Taylor history to create a look for the modern working woman."



Geller was one of several designers to create a tote for the CFDA's "You Can't Fake Fashion" campaign.



Robert Geller x Fred Segal. In early 2012, Geller teamed with Fred Segal for a one-off collab where he designed an outfit that embodies the California spirit.



 
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bows1

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Nice work on the first post/thread. That models.com link about S/S 2012 just made a must purchase for me. Pretty excited.

I have a ton of geller, and am a huge fan. He gets a lot of hate on this forum, but I quite like his work; except for last season when I was in between sizes and couldn't buy any of his button ups that I wanted :(

One of my favorite purchases of 2011 was a random short sleeved henley that I bought cause it was on sale, and now I have to keep myself from wearing it every day!
 

jwjp

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Geller is one of my favourite designers, and seeing those detail pics for ss12 has got me craving quite a few pieces, so it's a shame he's pretty difficult to get hold of over here. These are my favourites atm:
Especially the sweatshirt, bomber and flight pants. I really want to try a mesh t shirt as well because it looks cool layered. I've only got a t shirt and flight pants from ss11 at the moment so hopefully i can at least double that this season.
 

Desi

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[video]
ROBERT GELLER FITTINGS AW 2010 from JASON LAST on Vimeo.
[/video] I want to kiss this shearling vest. Fell in love when I tried it on in Barney's. That shawl was a wonderful accessory too and I felt bad when I saw some guy wearing it sloppy in the middle of the summer. This may be a good place to ask. Anyone know a way I can get very HQ pics of the F/W09 lookbook? I want to frame a few shots along with the old Patrik Ervell campaign shot against the stripe background.
 
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cowsareforeating

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needs stronger vision and not be wishy washy about what he wants to do with each collection. imo older seasons were better executed. do love mij ethics though.

bows u ever think about mixing geller and ann? would make for pretty awesome streetwear
 

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