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The (un)official Rosen thread

FlyingMonkey

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It's about time we had a thread for Rosen, https://rosen-store.com/ - a project from the very talented, Gracia Ventus, better known on Styleforum (and elsewhere) as @Rosenrot. Her own blog is here: http://the-rosenrot.com/

As with all of these types of threads, it's for discussing existing pieces we have, current lines and future developments. Maybe we can even persuade Gracia to contribute occasionally...

What's the ethos of Rosen? You'll excuse me where for putting my own interpretation on things, but it seems to me that Rosen is founded in a fusion of past and future. It draws on late C20th Japanese avant-garde fashion, particularly the 'big three' of Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo (Comme de Garçons) and Issey Miyake, and also on other designers who followed them - but the clothes these designers produced always seemed to have been transported from the future - and they still do. Rosen also draws on traditional Chinese and Japanese styles and has a strong sense of materials, along with high quality manufacture which is provided by Shanghai tailors and makers. Finally, I detect a certain sensibility, a willingness to fuse different traditions together but with knowledge and sensitivity, that you can also see in Singaporean designers like Peir Wu.

The other aspect that's really important is the genderless, or more accurately pan-gender style of the clothing. Everything is designed to be worn by anyone, and while there's still a clear spectrum visible from things that seem somewhat more traditionally masculine and others that draw more on feminine norms, nothing is overtly gendered to the point of being unavailable to anyone who would want to wear them.

Rosen is still very young. Prototypes were only created in 2017, followed later in that same year by the first collection. It's perhaps surprising then that there is already such a diversity of pieces available in three main lines. The label also operates in two fundamentally different ways from most, firstly, although it does have 'collections', annual or biannual, many older pieces are still very much available and do not disappear immediately the season is over - their availability is much more dependent on fabrics, many of which are deadstock; and secondly, everything is made-to-order, and any piece can be made-to-measure and customized on request: you can pay just a little extra for Gracia's team to find you particular kinds of fabrics, buttons, whatever.

Here are the current lines:

Rosen: https://rosen-store.com/collections/rosen
dsc06957_02901456-e99d-4767-a201-07cd696d52d9_960x.jpg

The original line, is the most strongly connected to that YY / CdG / IM tradition of avant-garde high fashion. There are lots of dark and rich colours, black, burgundy and teal greens, cut-away jackets and collarless or double-collared shirts, long coats and cloaks, hakamas and noragis. It's all in natural fabrics: wool gabardine, linen, hemp etc. often of a very interesting character. Many pieces are available in both heavy and lightweight variations.


Rosen-X: https://rosen-store.com/collections/rosen-x
orionandvestduo-2_960x.jpg

This is the technical line, with everything in nylon or ripstop cotton etc. There is still plenty of black, but also more military olive greens, grey-blues, and greys. Some of the same styles reappear from the Rosen line, but there are also square-cut vests with multiple pockets, cargo pants and sharply-cut jackets.

Rosen-S: https://rosen-store.com/collections/rosen-s
sittingstaticalt2000_960x.jpg

Described as "modern and fuss-free", this is the most ordinary of Rosen's lines. It's designed for everyday use, and while it's still genderless and there are still some really innovative elements and details (the digitally-printed shirts are like very little else I've seen), most of it will not frighten the horses.

Sample Sale:
There's currently also still a pop-up sample sale of early prototypes and one-offs. I don't know how long this will be there. There are still some excellent pieces available.

Archive Shop: https://rosen-store.com/collections/archive

This is a really well-curated of second-hand clothing from the labels and designers that either have inspired Rosen, or which might also work really well with Rosen pieces (or just stuff Gracia likes - but she has impeccable taste!). Most of this is womenswear, but there are some menswear and genderless pieces in there too.
 
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FlyingMonkey

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And to kick things of, I'll put my money where my mouth is - here's a x-post from the WAYWT thread:
DSC00328_v2.jpg


The jacket is a Rosen 'Kantian' in patchwork linens of various kinds. It was a sample rather than a regular piece, but I'm guessing you could commission something similar (if you wanted to).

The shirt is a Rosen 'Hume' in an ecru cotton - my favourite kind of shirt right now.

The pants aren't Rosen, they're hemp 'Hatten' pants from Sou Sou, but they definitely have a similar aesthetic.
 

Chaconne

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Correct me if I’m wrong but their prices are generally quite a bit lower than the labels that influenced them, aren’t they?
 

FlyingMonkey

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Correct me if I’m wrong but their prices are generally quite a bit lower than the labels that influenced them, aren’t they?

Indeed they are - considerably lower, and the good value is definitely one of the attractions. But Rosen haven't achieved this by compromising on workmanship.
 

FlyingMonkey

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I think it's worth highlighting a few of the best pieces still available in Rosen's pop-up sample sale. These are amazing value! Here's my Top 3:

1. Rosen-X Atlas Coat in 2-tone Nylon w/ TPU laminate. This coat looks like it would make you feel at home in any near-future dystopia, in other words, now - and if this is a bit too bright for you, there's also the much darker and more ominous Orwellian coat available in the same size. (Size 1 - 24" P2P, recommended for 32 - 38" chests) $289
DSC02539_720x.jpg


2. Rosen Tenzing coat in dark blue textured linen - very reminiscent of expensive avant-garde runway pieces (Size 1, an oversized 30" P2P, but would fit from XS to M depending on how you like your fit). $299
Tenzing-Long-3_720x.jpg


3. Rosen-X Raijin Noragi in olive green nylon - Rosen's noragi is a straight-up better modern take on this style than some better known labels, who will also charge you at least three or four times as much (22.5" P2P suitable for 34 - 40" chest depending on how you like your fit, but its asymmetrical cut means it will start to look more cropped, the taller you are) $199
DSC04837_720x.jpg
 

happyriverz

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Low key one of the best values out there if you into the aesthetic. The only downside is that given its MTO nature, it usually takes about two ~ three months between ordering and receiving, depending on demand.

I have currently the Plato shirt/pants "suit" in technical nylon for the 90+ fahrenheit days, and a the Plank shirt-coat in a striped linen.

I used to have the Hanzo hakama, which is so intricate in its pattern and construction, but ended up being too cumbersome for my day to day needs.

I plan to get the Aozora coat in the fall.

Again, just amazing bang for your buck: the pattern cutting on some of the more avant-garde garments are just so intricate. You cannot get that at this price level.
 

zenosparadox

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Thanks for starting this thread @FlyingMonkey - I've noticed your posts about Rosen previously. A lot of it is a bit outside my comfort zone, but almost always in a way that I find intriguing.

Most of the remaining sample stuff is too small for me, but does anyone have any experience with the Tenjin Hanten? They have one sample available in a size 4:


There's a navy version of this that I could get MTO, and I've noticed someone on Reddit ordered a custom version in all black, but I like this version as well. Even if someone could simply comment on the likely feel of the fabrics based on their experience of similar garments. Would this be something you'd mostly want to wear outside, or would the fabrics also suit casual indoor wear?
 
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FlyingMonkey

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Given that it's a ripstop nylon, it will probably be quite light and sleek, and wear pretty cool. It will also be water resistant and wind proof, but it's not something you'd wear on an expedition!
 

FlyingMonkey

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I just picked up a couple more things from Rosen, one of which was from their archive shop (a Lumen et Umbra grey linen coat, at a price that was insanely good compared to the prices you see for this kind of thing on Grailed and suchlike), and this 'Oliver' double-collared oversized shirt in burgundy crosshatched linen:

dsc04421_960x.jpg
 

happyriverz

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How did it?

great job based on me just telling them measurements. The only thing that need to be fixed is a small collar roll, which is something that a competent tailor can fix. The cut is otherwise very clean and sharp. Has a slightly 70s vibe due to the slight leg flare and the double breasted peak lapels, but all go well with my growing fondness for taller-than-normal heeled boots.
 

happyriverz

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Another update: because I enjoyed the DB tuxedo, I ordered the DB Cellier suit (ROSEN-STORE.COM | The Celliers Suit | Wool Twill (rosen-store.com)

I was able to further tweak the pattern just a bit after my experience with the tuxedo order, and really nailed the fit this time -- obviously not on the same level as bespoke or MTO in terms of precision of fit, but on par with most RTW suits that you can see in store, which is pretty incredible to me as everything is communicated via email.
 

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