RANCOURT & Co. Shoes - Made in Maine

[Michael Haines]

Nope not yet on the Espresso pinch. I will post some pictures. I will upload se higher quality pictures of the Caramel later to

 

[wdahab]

Ah, is Caramel natural? I'll double check before ordering, but I wouldn't have assumed that from what I've read, or from how it looks. It looks slightly dyed, and people have referred to it as a color. It looks more like a walnut color, rather than a natural leather that's darkened on its own.

And that's too bad about speedhooks. Well, I still will ask for more eyelets, if it's possible, I suppose.

 

[Michael Haines]

...

Ah, is Caramel natural? I'll double check before ordering, but I wouldn't have assumed that from what I've read, or from how it looks. It looks slightly dyed, and people have referred to it as a color. It looks more like a walnut color, rather than a natural leather that's darkened on its own.

And that's too bad about speedhooks. Well, I still will ask for more eyelets, if it's possible, I suppose.[/quote

Much more natural in person

I will say I put just the hint of Reno and massive amount of brushing and got the casual loafer for summer I wanted.

 

[FrankCowperwood]

I don't think caramel is the same as natural. But Rancourt does say that they custom dye shell, so perhaps they can offer natural on request.

 

[Bakes11771]

Okay, I think I've settled on what I want: Blake Boots in natural shell cordovan, a rubber tread half-sole (like Red Wing GTs), and eyelets and speedhooks (if possible) like Wolverine 1000 miles have (I don't know if that can be customized, but doesn't hurt to ask, right?). I've fallen in love with natural leather, and think that the natural shell is just going to look more and more amazing over the years. Might as well get it now and start the aging/patina process, right? I'm assuming they can make that, though I haven't actually seen anyone get natural shells from them. Seen it from a few other places on the web though. Looks amazing.

Anyway, still up in the air about sizing. 9 or 9.5. I wear 9D's in Wolverine 1Ks, 9EE in Rancourt's boat shoes and ranger mocs, 8.5EEE in Allen Edmonds lined boots. Which means I have not the slightest idea of how to size. If I had to say, the Rancourts are a bit on the snug side, but I've been bitten by comparing hand sewns to boots before, and ended up with boots that were much, much too big on me. Anyone have any guidance on how they compared their Blakes to their mocs? Or Blakes to Wolverine 1Ks? Too big can be just as bad as too small, I've found, if I never want to wear the boot.

First things first, Big Up to Long Island!

I got my Blake boots in my true size, (against Rancourt's suggestions) and they fit perfect. 9.5D Blake, 9.5D Rancourt Boat Shoes, 9C Barrie/Van 9D Aberdeen/Hampton 9.5D US Tod's and Gucci. Hope this helps.

I don't think caramel is the same as natural. But Rancourt does say that they custom dye shell, so perhaps they can offer natural on request.

They showed a pic on their instagram once of natural shell, before and after they buffed it to a finish.

 

[wdahab]

Yup, out in Bay Shore, right by the water. So these boots are going to not be dress boots. My 744s get dipped in the bay, salt, sand and snow pretty regularly. Why I want the naturals, because just think what the patina will do when I kick the **** out of them. That said, I have a business casual office, so they'll be going to work too. Cordovan is perfect for both worlds.

And it helps a bit. If you wear a 9 in Barrie, and 9.5 in Blake, I'd imagine 9.5 in blake is good for me, since 9 Barrie is roughly the same as 9 W1Ks.

The real question is (and perhaps you can help with this, Bakes): What's the actual length of the 9.5 moc and the 9.5 Blake, in comparison? Handsewn mocs should have less toe room than a boot. So the ambiguity (and Rancourt isn't really clear on this) is whether their shoe sizes correspond to the length of the shoe, or the length of the intended foot. That is, is the 9.5 Blake the same length as the 9.5 moc (i.e. the 9.5 corresponds to the actual length) or is the 9.5 Blake longer than the 9.5 moc (i.e. the 9.5 corresponds to the size of the foot that belongs in it.)

 

[rydenfan]

Rancourt does have a new made to fit policy where you pay $50 and they send you two different sizes to try on. You then return the two pairs and get a $50 credit towards your purchase. You may want to reach out to them and see if they do this for the Blake as well, probably the simplest and best way to feel confident in your sizing

 

[rydenfan]

I often wonder if natural shell does patina? It is not died in any way so you are likely not to get much colors variation through wear and creasing. I have considered boots in this finish as well but wonder if they would indeed patina or not

 

[Bakes11771]

Yup, out in Bay Shore, right by the water. So these boots are going to not be dress boots. My 744s get dipped in the bay, salt, sand and snow pretty regularly. Why I want the naturals, because just think what the patina will do when I kick the **** out of them. That said, I have a business casual office, so they'll be going to work too. Cordovan is perfect for both worlds.

And it helps a bit. If you wear a 9 in Barrie, and 9.5 in Blake, I'd imagine 9.5 in blake is good for me, since 9 Barrie is roughly the same as 9 W1Ks.

The real question is (and perhaps you can help with this, Bakes): What's the actual length of the 9.5 moc and the 9.5 Blake, in comparison? Handsewn mocs should have less toe room than a boot. So the ambiguity (and Rancourt isn't really clear on this) is whether their shoe sizes correspond to the length of the shoe, or the length of the intended foot. That is, is the 9.5 Blake the same length as the 9.5 moc (i.e. the 9.5 corresponds to the actual length) or is the 9.5 Blake longer than the 9.5 moc (i.e. the 9.5 corresponds to the size of the foot that belongs in it.)

I can measure some shoes for you later on. What do you want me to measure? The inside length of the Blake and the boat shoe? Any others that I mentioned? Sounds like you could have slightly wide feet, correct? I know they say the blake is a little narrow. I find it to be only slightly narrow if at all. My forefoot is "normal" if not just ever so slightly wide. My heel is slightly narrow if not "normal".

I'd love to see pics of your 744s.

Also, FWIW, I find the number and spacing of the eyelets that come standard on the blake to be perfect. I actually don't lace the top eyelet. They aren't loose or anything by any means.

I'm on the north shore, and not as far East as you are.

 

[Rene_Lahm]



Got my Brown CXL beef roll loafers. Very comfortable. A bit of slippage in the right foot, but the left fits perfectly. I don’t think it’s worth swapping for the smaller size.

Really nice! I'm probably going to order these mid-April. I love the look, and the colour. Most importantly though, they make them in a size 14, which is pretty hard to find in something you actually like.

 

[wdahab]

I gathered that the sizing service is only for handsewns but I'll check. Definitely know about that service. Fortunately I got my handsewns in the perfect size (well EEE would have been nice) on the first try.

Bakes: heel to toe would be nice. It's fairly obvious that my 744s are longer than my Rancourts, I'll take pictures later when I'm back home. They are gorgeous.

Also regarding natural shell, being undyed should mean an even better patina. Look at what natural cxl or veg tan does. It goes from pale pink white to a dark gold brown. And it gets color variation at the creases and the wear marks. It helps if you kick the **** out of them too.

 

[NNNN]

The Made-To-Fit shoes are all venetians are far as I know.

 

[rydenfan]

Too bad. They should add the Blake stitch in some way

 

[wdahab]

Yeah, I mean, I hate to be *that* guy who asks about sizing advice. If I could send the boots back for a different size, I would just go the "figure it out" route. But since I can't, and these are $675 boots, it's a bit difficult. I've combed every resource for sizing advice and just can't quite figure it out. Here is a photo of some of my shoes to sort of show why the question is pretty important:

Those are all size 9s, in various widths, in decreasing size order from left to right. A lined size 9EEE AE shelton (which is a little snug on me), an unlined AE Yuma 9EEE (which is a little bit big on me), a size 9D Wolverine 744s (perfect boot fit) and size 9EE Rancourts (perfect moc fit). See the dilemma? If size 9 Blakes are Wolverine 744 length, then they'd be perfect in unlined Blakes. If size 9 Blakes are Rancourt moc length, then they'll be way too small, and I'd want the 9.5.

Also, Bakes, the 744s are oiled and sno-sealed, making them a dark chocolate. More pics can be seen if you look at my profiles pictures. They are perfect, and made me really fall in love with unlined shell. I really never want a pair of lined shells again. I really hope that when Rancourt releases their Blake shoe, that they have unlined shell wingtips, like the AE Cambridge or Leeds, except unlined.

 

[grendel]

Well, they have this pair in ready-made:

http://www.rancourtandcompany.com/ready-made/men-s/blake-chukka-olive-mohave-suede.html

You could ask if you could order this pair in the size you think you should take and return them for a credit toward a MTO order