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SimplyStylin

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Question: My President Spread collar usually looks a bit unkept after s few hours. The material below the collar spreads and gets wavy. I'm not sure if it's due to the size of the collar (too small?), top button location, or a result of the fabric. I have 18" shoulders, but a shorter neck and head. Should I look into a larger or different collar? If I unbutton the top button (second one) it looks even worse.

Pics: http://imgur.com/a/e3ej5

What kind of fabric is this?

Is it a fused front placket?

Have you ironed this part before wearing for the day?

Ever try magnetic collar stays? It might help, but either way will look much better when not wearing a tie, etc.
 

bigsink

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Quote:
What kind of fabric is this?

Is it a fused front placket?

Have you ironed this part before wearing for the day?

Ever try magnetic collar stays? It might help, but either way will look much better when not wearing a tie, etc.
AC85168a Canclini Purple Fine Stripe PCF378, President Spread Collar, One Button Barrel Cuff, Front Placket Front Placket, Split Yoke It was ironed but the fabric seemed floppy. In this photo I am using collar metal stays. Some think I should go with a collar with 3" ends to help balance he 18" shoulders.
 

venividivicibj

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Received the Light blue Albini Chambray last weekend. Absolutely amazing fabric. Might even buy the same fabric in another collar.
 

bigsink

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Quote:
What kind of fabric is this?

Is it a fused front placket?

Have you ironed this part before wearing for the day?

Ever try magnetic collar stays? It might help, but either way will look much better when not wearing a tie, etc.
AC85168a Canclini Purple Fine Stripe PCF378, President Spread Collar, One Button Barrel Cuff, Front Placket Front Placket, Split Yoke It was ironed but the fabric seemed floppy. In this photo I am using collar metal stays. Some think I should go with a collar with 3" ends to help balance he 18" shoulders.
 

SimplyStylin

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AC85168a
Canclini Purple Fine Stripe PCF378, President Spread Collar, One Button Barrel Cuff, Front Placket Front Placket, Split Yoke

It was ironed but the fabric seemed floppy.
In this photo I am using collar metal stays. Some think I should go with a collar with 3" ends to help balance he 18" shoulders.

I'll have to leave this to the experts... sorry.

I'd still look in to magnetic stays though, much better then just normal metal one's IMO and tend to keep my placket straighter since the collars aren't flapping around.
 

ericgereghty

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Just placed my order for 4 shirts. Overhauling my shirt collection slowly.
If by chance, you're getting Milano and/or Roma Cutaways, can you post a side by side comparison? I initially thought the Milano would be way over the top, but I just don't see how I'd want to go with any other collar now haha.
 

AriG

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The president has 3 inch points. A larger collar with no jacket will always look floppier compared to a smaller one. Your shirt/collar is simply not properly pressed/creased. Forget the magnets.
 

venividivicibj

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If by chance, you're getting Milano and/or Roma Cutaways, can you post a side by side comparison? I initially thought the Milano would be way over the top, but I just don't see how I'd want to go with any other collar now haha.
I have already/will receive

Ivy BD
Roma Spread
Stiff Roma Cutaway
Soft Roma Cutaway (the old milano 2 AFAIK)
Roma Cutaway
 

CaptainTohm

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I have already/will receive

Ivy BD
Roma Spread
Stiff Roma Cutaway
Soft Roma Cutaway (the old milano 2 AFAIK)
Roma Cutaway


How do you style the soft Roma cutaway? I'm thinking about getting a gingham shirt that I'd like to be versitlle, but lean a little casual.

I've never owned a non BD soft collared shirt, but the lookbooks on PC show some intriguing examples.
 

venividivicibj

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How do you style the soft Roma cutaway? I'm thinking about getting a gingham shirt that I'd like to be versitlle, but lean a little casual.

I've never owned a non BD soft collared shirt, but the lookbooks on PC show some intriguing examples.
I used the soft roma on my seersucker shirt, did it with soft placket/soft cuffs (I only use it on my more casual shirts).

Ivy BD is really nice too, also a casual shirt collar.
 

beyondmars2020

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@beyondmars2020 It'll depend a bit on how slim of a fit you're going for, but I'd suggest the following:

Shoulders/Yoke: -.75"
Chest: -.75"
Arm Width: -.5"
Cuff: consider -.25"
Mid--Draping nicely now, could bring in .25" or .5" no problem if you'd like a slimmer fit but up to you.

Sleeve/Body Length--It looks like this shirt is fresh out of the box, so it's probably best to launder it to see how you feel a bit about the fit. It looks like you may want to bring sleeve length up slightly (.5") and lengthen the shirt out (if you're wearing it tucked in) by 1". Collar side will also shrink down, so always good to see after a wash.


Chris @ccallis,

I finally got around to washing my first Proper Cloth shirt and was hoping you can suggest adjustments for my measurements.

I like my shirts to fit cleanly (eg. smooth polished fit, not loose, not tight, tailored enough to wear dressed up or casually, tucked in or out, fully buttoned or top button undone).

From what I can see/feel, the collar is a tiny bit snug, the shirt overall is mildly loose/sloppy (especially around the sides of the chest and underarms), and the length is a little short. I have a good drop from my shoulders to my waist, so I know getting a clean drape is challenging.

Here were the ordered dimensions:

Collar: 15.75
Sleeve: 34.00
Yoke: 18.00
Chest: 22.25
MIdsection: 18.00
Shirt Length: 29.50
Sleeve Width: 8.00
Cuff Around: 8.25
Bottom Width: 19.50
Shoulder Slope: None
Forearm : One pleat
Shoulder/Armpit Fit: Tailored
Rear Pleats: None
Posture: Neck forward 1/2"
Top Button Placement: Lowered 1/2"
Buttons: 7

Your help is greatly appreciated so I can this shirt dialed in then proceed with the rest of my order.

700

700

700


ps. My apologies for the poor quality photos.
 
Last edited:

yoshiwaan

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I've received a remake of my first shirt with a few modifications to help with fit. Overall the fit is leagues ahead of the first iteration and is wearable. I still think there is room for improvement for my second shirt, so I put it to the forum for more advice.
The main point of concern for me are the wrinkles behind on the shoulders on the back, I'm not sure how to improve those. I'm thinking of trying the non-tailored arm holes.




 

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