Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[S K M]

Is that the raf blue agnelli tweed? Imo, that fabric looks so much better in person

No, it's one of the old tweeds (reckon it's probably like 10 years old) in skye blue. Super rick colour.

 

[brax]

Looking forward to my first fitting of this one in just a week's time in Naples. An old LL cloth that has been sitting in my closet for quite a while, but now I have finally taken the plunge. Will also have a fitting of the well-known Agnelli-flannel from the LL - together they're my first bespoke commissions in checked fabric!

View attachment 1838385

I love this fabric. If is in my top five of all-time. If I could find a second length, I’d gladly throw it in my Unfunded Liability pile.

I, too, had it made in Naples. I pair it with brown flannel. A few years ago a friend spilled half a glass of red wine on a sleeve. I quickly blotted it with paper towels and not a drop penetrated the fabric.

 

[brax]

Is that the raf blue agnelli tweed? Imo, that fabric looks so much better in person

Coincidentally, my length of RAF tweed (looks like a flannel) sits at my tailor’s atelier awaiting my instructions.

 

[jonathanS]

Coincidentally, my length of RAF tweed (looks like a flannel) sits at my tailor’s atelier awaiting my instructions.

out of curiousity, what are you thinking re sb/db? My initial thought was a db with the raf agnelli tweed.

 

[S K M]

I love this fabric. If is in my top five of all-time. If I could find a second length, I’d gladly throw it in my Unfunded Liability pile.

I, too, had it made in Naples. I pair it with brown flannel. A few years ago a friend spilled half a glass of red wine on a sleeve. I quickly blotted it with paper towels and not a drop penetrated the fabric.

Great to hear! I’ve been a bit worried about how versatile it actually is, but I guess it will work well denim and navy corduroy as well. But let‘s see, hope it will be one of those garments that look so great that it is even more versatile than one should initially think…

 

[clothingfun]

Both the jacket the tailor and the one you’re wearing are very long, who is the tailor?

Hello sir and I hope you are well. My wife and I are still out traveling and I don’t check in as regularly lately. However, I saw today you asked a question about my tailor. Thanks for your thoughts and inquiry. I was going to message privately but thought others here may find this helpful and informative.

I regularly use Dege and Skinner. If you search my posts in this thread I’ve shared a couple other garments. I very much like their work. I have found they do an excellent job.

Their house style tends towards cutting a longer jacket to various degrees, depending on the client. Particularly compared to the Italian tailors I’ve seen here on SF it seems.

I very much like a longer cut sport coat (particularly given my height, build, proportions, etc.) which is one of several reasons I decided to try them initially. Just my personal preference however.

That said, besides being very talented, I have found my cutter to be accommodating and receptive to requests and variations. Personally though, I don’t like to stray from the house style of a tailor that I’ve chosen. I mean, that’s why I chose them!

I’ve mentioned this before here, but for the most part, I ask a few questions, offer a couple suggestions, and then just stay out of the way and let my cutter work. That’s what I’m paying him for and I’ve yet to be disappointed.

In regards to my body type I referenced above, I don’t have the perfect physique of @Texasmade but hey who does?! Besides, I’m a senior so cut an old man a break!



On another note, this trunk show was a brief stop on what has been an incredibly fun and extended trip. “The Boss” and I have been having a load of fun seeing some new places. Always nice to get away for awhile but looking forward to getting home soon as well.

Everyone have a great day.

 

[brax]

out of curiousity, what are you thinking re sb/db? My initial thought was a db with the raf agnelli tweed.

My grey Agnelli is DB. Gonna stick with DB for the RAF one.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Received two pairs of trousers by Dawid Kuklinski today. Very happy with the fit. As my phone takes crappy pictures in the bad lighting, can’t see real colours on the full body photos. I added photos of cloth bunches where colours are closer to the reality.
First pair, emerald green:

Second pair, brown:

 

[PSNY]

beautiful trousers, what is the size of the leg opening? 19cm or 20cm?

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

beautiful trousers, what is the size of the leg opening? 19cm or 20cm?

Frankly I did not know. Never asked for any specific number. I just measured my last 4 pairs of trousers from Dawid and all od them have exactly 20.2 cm opening. I guess that’s the beauty of bespoke. In RTW you are limited to integer numbers, for bespoke everyone can have their individual pattern. For me it’s 20.2cm for someone else it will be 19.75 or 22.4…

 

[PSNY]

Interesting tailors have a good eye

 

[DavidLane]

My grey Agnelli is DB. Gonna stick with DB for the RAF one. View attachment 1840775

That gunclub is one of my all time favorites.

-DL

 

[sensuki]

Update on my first bespoke jacket (OP): https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-11048249

Had my first fitting at the TFC showroom in Sydney last week

TFC apparently don't usually do the first fitting in the actual cloth when you pick an open weave jacket fabric, apparently the ends need to be treated (probably not a usual thing for bespoke) so fitting was done in a regular worsted instead of the actual cloth which will be used in second fitting (Anglo-Italian AIT-001).

I requested the buttoning point to be lowered for the next fitting, because I want a deeper V. Joe said the armhole will be raised slightly, as it's currently a bit too low. The sleeve is being lengthened a touch. The waist is being let out (and that will close the skirt a bit more). I think the chalk marks to mark my shoulder bones are to be smoothed out via some padding.

My gf took this photo from behind, I can see there's some pulling across the top of the back and in the instagram photo the sleeves look like they need a tweak.

Looking forward to the second fitting in the actual cloth..

 

[Marshak]

Update on my first bespoke jacket (OP): https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-11048249

Had my first fitting at the TFC showroom in Sydney last week

TFC apparently don't usually do the first fitting in the actual cloth when you pick an open weave jacket fabric, apparently the ends need to be treated (probably not a usual thing for bespoke) so fitting was done in a regular worsted instead of the actual cloth which will be used in second fitting (Anglo-Italian AIT-001).

I requested the buttoning point to be lowered for the next fitting, because I want a deeper V. Joe said the armhole will be raised slightly, as it's currently a bit too low. The sleeve is being lengthened a touch. The waist is being let out (and that will close the skirt a bit more). I think the chalk marks to mark my shoulder bones are to be smoothed out via some padding.

My gf took this photo from behind, I can see there's some pulling across the top of the back and in the instagram photo the sleeves look like they need a tweak.

Looking forward to the second fitting in the actual cloth..

It's Assisi bespoke, isn't it? Their work seems top notch!

 

[sensuki]

It's Assisi bespoke, isn't it? Their work seems top notch!

I ordered "TFC Bespoke". Sarto K, the head cutter from Assisi measured me, because I placed the order during their trunk show, so I think that it might be them making it - based on the shoulder style as well. It may end up being "Sarto K for TFC". It's possible there is/was another maker that makes for the "TFC Bespoke" line, but I'm not sure.

I ordered some MTM trousers from Assisi and I picked up a pair of those when I had that fitting - possibly the best MTM trouser cut I've had, I've had worse bespoke outcomes.