Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[reidd]

These two jackets and the plaids shown before are cut the same. None of these are cut to have "open quarters". This what English tailors call cutting a crooked coat. It is not how the Italian tailors mentioned make "open quarters"

Interesting. Is the "crooked coat" meant to achieve a particular effect?

 

[dieworkwear]

Interesting. Is the "crooked coat" meant to achieve a particular effect?

One of my tailors explained it to me here, although Chris has said he disagrees with this explanation of the crookening and straightening of the coat. I've read a third theory on Tom's old English Cut blog.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

 

[Toninno]

One of my tailors explained it to me here, although Chris has said he disagrees with this explanation of the crookening and straightening of the coat. I've read a third theory on Tom's old English Cut blog.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

This adjustment makes absolutely zero sense to me. It just doesn’t add up. No matter how I twist it. A “crooked coat “? And I’ve been studying cutting relentlessly going on 40 years. But I’m sure it works for him.

 

[Despos]

This adjustment makes absolutely zero sense to me. It just doesn’t add up. No matter how I twist it. A “crooked coat “? And I’ve been studying cutting relentlessly going on 40 years. But I’m sure it works for him.

Agree with you Frank. Watched the video twice to be sure I didn't misunderstand the explanation.

 

[brax]

2B just feels weird for me these days. I would not mind wearing one but I would never intentionally order one bespoke...it looks weird for me proportion wise. 1 or 3r2 for me...would not mind a sbpl in a 3r2

If I were to deviate from a 1 button model, I would not pick a SBPL. I think that is one of the few configurations that demands 1 button.

 

[dresden]

Summer blazer and trousers. Caccioppoli hopsack. Half lined, 3 r 2, patch pockets and controversial silver metal buttons with extra saucy buttonholes. Cerruti lightweight summer trousers. Trouser fabric might be too lightweight. They might look like crumpled linen the first time I sit down and only last two summers. I have high hopes though.

Spoiler: More blazer pics

 

[dresden]

Edit

 

[dresden]

Some more Standeven Explorer suit photos

 

[Toninno]

Summer blazer and trousers. Caccioppoli hopsack. Half lined, 3 r 2, patch pockets and controversial silver metal buttons with extra saucy buttonholes. Cerruti lightweight summer trousers. Trouser fabric might be too lightweight. They might look like crumpled linen the first time I sit down and only last two summers. I have high hopes though. View attachment 1396019 View attachment 1396020 View attachment 1396021 View attachment 1396022

Spoiler: More blazer pics

View attachment 1396023 View attachment 1396024 View attachment 1396025 View attachment 1396026 View attachment 1396027 View attachment 1396029

Gorgeous

 

[Toninno]

Looks like a halfway between a feminine cut coat and a masculine cut...

An “A shaped coat” ???Crooked coat” ?? This is all a bunch of nonsense. The above coats are just ill cut. The one on the mannequin is way off balance and the other two are sucked in at the waist and seat - and that is why the fronts are pulling open. You can tell by the plaid on the middle coat that it’s a normal cut front.

 

[Toninno]

One of my tailors explained it to me here, although Chris has said he disagrees with this explanation of the crookening and straightening of the coat. I've read a third theory on Tom's old English Cut blog.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

on

One of my tailors explained it to me here, although Chris has said he disagrees with this explanation of the crookening and straightening of the coat. I've read a third theory on Tom's old English Cut blog.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

Igents guide to asking an English tailor for open quarters.

what is the mystery to opening the quarters ? I can think of nothing more simple. My customer just asked for his next coat to have more open quarters. It’s as simple as it gets. When cutting I just pivot the pattern from just below the top button to 1/2” ( or whatever) at the bottom. Why can Naples tailors do this simple adjustment and not an English tailor ? If there’s more to it I’m more than willing to learn.

 

[Toninno]

One of my tailors explained it to me here, although Chris has said he disagrees with this explanation of the crookening and straightening of the coat. I've read a third theory on Tom's old English Cut blog.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

If you do what he says you must add the amount that he has shifted forward to the front of the pattern - and take it off the side seam. And also move the lapel line.

 

[IJReilly]

Summer blazer and trousers. Caccioppoli hopsack. Half lined, 3 r 2, patch pockets and controversial silver metal buttons with extra saucy buttonholes. Cerruti lightweight summer trousers. Trouser fabric might be too lightweight. They might look like crumpled linen the first time I sit down and only last two summers. I have high hopes though. View attachment 1396019 View attachment 1396020 View attachment 1396021 View attachment 1396022

Spoiler: More blazer pics

View attachment 1396023 View attachment 1396024 View attachment 1396025 View attachment 1396026 View attachment 1396027 View attachment 1396029

Lovely buttons.

 

[Despos]

If you do what he says you must add the amount that he has shifted forward to the front of the pattern - and take it off the side seam. And also move the lapel line.

Crooking for erect/full chest shortens the strap, makes the chest smaller and puts more cloth overlapping on the front edge. If you lengthen the strap after the change, you change the shoulder slope. Four effects that are opposite of what is needed. Crooking is done to move the collar closer to the neck but not an effective adjustment for a full chest. It takes away cloth needed to cover the chest.
Straightening the shoulder puts more cloth over the chest, lengthens the strap, takes away from the overlap, does not change shoulder slope. One change to the pattern that adjusts all of this for full chest and erect posture.
Moving the neck point is a big deal because it effects almost every aspect of a jacket. Have to do this judiciously.

 

[Toninno]

Crooking for erect/full chest shortens the strap, makes the chest smaller and puts more cloth overlapping on the front edge. If you lengthen the strap after the change, you change the shoulder slope. Four effects that are opposite of what is needed. Crooking is done to move the collar closer to the neck but not an effective adjustment for a full chest. It takes away cloth needed to cover the chest.
Straightening the shoulder puts more cloth over the chest, lengthens the strap, takes away from the overlap, does not change shoulder slope. One change to the pattern that adjusts all of this for full chest and erect posture.
Moving the neck point is a big deal because it effects almost every aspect of a jacket. Have to do this judiciously.

I shift the neck point often. It’s right there in the Mitchell System. I just did it for a new customer. I do it often. But not for the reason this gent explains. He may just be under-explaining for the customer.