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FlyingHorker

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I think it’s hard to make such a statement without seeing the garment in person, or minimally, seeing a photo of the garment on the client.
@comrade is allergic to anything that isn't a natural sleevecap.

this would send him into anaphylactic shock

tumblr_inline_p44n3kVtFV1qfex1b_500.jpg
 

C&A

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My guy is from Casalnuovo too - no surprise though since this is tailor territory 😁
Domenico Pirozzi And this is not to be confused with his namesake who is not as good as him. He tailoring in Via Chiaia 197 in Naples
 

jonathanS

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There are 2 Pirozzis?
Better yet. One is name domenico Pirozzi (I think of him as mimmo Pirozzi).

The other is lead by nunzio Pirozzi & his son (who is cutting & traveling now) is named “domenico Pirozzi”
 

Texasmade

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Better yet. One is name domenico Pirozzi (I think of him as mimmo Pirozzi).

The other is lead by nunzio Pirozzi & his son (who is cutting & traveling now) is named “domenico Pirozzi”
So the son is this one?

And this is their sartoria?

Does Mimmo have an IG? Which one Pirozzi is the better cutter?
 

reidd

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Very old school Napoli. Love it. I could be wrong but from the pics it looks like the shoulder itself is still very light and natural (no deliberate shaping or pagoda). But rather the sleevehead treatment gives it the illusion of a pagoda shape. Would be curious if he uses much wadding in that sleevehead to get the rollino or if its mostly ironing. Also is the shoulder extended at all? I bet these will be very comfy jackets.
 

jonathanS

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So the son is this one?

And this is their sartoria?

Does Mimmo have an IG? Which one Pirozzi is the better cutter?
Mimmo doesn’t travel.
Japanese napoletano?
 

clee1982

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Very old school Napoli. Love it. I could be wrong but from the pics it looks like the shoulder itself is still very light and natural (no deliberate shaping or pagoda). But rather the sleevehead treatment gives it the illusion of a pagoda shape. Would be curious if he uses much wadding in that sleevehead to get the rollino or if its mostly ironing. Also is the shoulder extended at all? I bet these will be very comfy jackets.

I thought you need concave to be pagoda vs just roped?
 

reidd

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I thought you need concave to be pagoda vs just roped?

Right. My understanding is that pagoda shoulders have significant tailoring/structure added into the shoulder itself to build that shape. Adding padding or shape to the sleevehead is not enough to create it. My point is that on this jacket, the sleeveheads are made such that it almost creates the optical illusion of a pagoda on what is likely a very unstructed jacket which I think is very cool.

Similar to how a dead straight lapel combined with some shape in the chest on some jackets almost makes the lapels look concave. Crompton has discussed this before; I believe on his Liverano jackets.
 
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