Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[oldworldelegance]

Thank you! The fabric is escaping me, but I do remember it being from the usual suspects like Lovat or W Bill…

Must be Lovat then, afaik W. Bill doesn't make tweed suiting? Or is their Donegal suitable for suits?

 

[te0o]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

 

[DorianGreen]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

View attachment 2081025

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

View attachment 2081027
View attachment 2081029

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.
View attachment 2081031
View attachment 2081033

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

Frankly, I'd say that it looks (very) good. Of course, I understand you, if you go the bespoke way, you expect to get what you have in mind and for which you're paying. Can't judge from the pics whether all the issues were eliminated or reduced to a maximum extent, but the suit does look good. Certainly it has also to "feel" good, but you will be the only judge about that.

I would particularly remark the nice length and width on the trousers.

 

[te0o]

Frankly, I'd say that it looks (very) good. Of course, I understand you, if you go the bespoke way, you expect to get what you have in mind and for which you're paying. Can't judge from the pics whether all the issues were eliminated or reduced to a maximum extent, but the suit does look good. Certainly it has also to "feel" good, but you will be the only judge about that.

I would particularly remark the nice length and width on the trousers.

Thanks! They definitely needed a bit more length.

However, the width of the trousers hasn't changed since the beginning. I think what happened is that letting out the seat/crotch area allowed more of that existing 'volume' to drape better along the leg line. Funny things patterms..

 

[lordsuperb]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

View attachment 2081025

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

View attachment 2081027
View attachment 2081029

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.
View attachment 2081031
View attachment 2081033

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

Stay the course...

 

[Sreezy36]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

View attachment 2081025

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

View attachment 2081027
View attachment 2081029

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.
View attachment 2081031
View attachment 2081033

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

I would love to have those results for a jacket(based on the still photos). Especially for a first project. Pretty much my ideal silhouette for a one button 2 straight pocket coat. As @lordsuperb stated, it might be worth it for you to stay the course. Communication is everything!!! Always keep in mind that the grass ain't always greener on the other side.

 

[The_Schmidt]

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

It is ultimately your choice obviously and giving outside advice on this is a lot of guesstimation since we were not there during the process. But this is a forum so I will add my 2c:

In the end the result does not look bad at all to my eyes for a first commission. And unlike others I am of the opinion that absolutely nailing the very first commission 100% is very rare. So there is a good argument to be had that now that both you and the tailer learnt from each other, future commissions should go much smoother and net better results quicker.

However, I could also understand if you were to not give them a second chance. It is a lot of money and if the process and result are not satisfying, why bother with it. Having said that, I come back to what I previously said: I am not sure that starting over with someone else will actually result in something better from the get go.

For me personally it comes down to this: if working with the tailor is nice and (s)he seems trustworthy, I would continue with what you have and try to improve from there. I strongly believe that the personal relationship is pretty important. If there is no improvement, you still have the option to go a different route. But to me what you have now is not bad enough to justify moving on with someone else. Again, in my outside opinion from a few stills and not knowing how the process was.

 

[lordsuperb]

I think the most important thing to know going into it is that the client has to be engaged and willing to put in the time to work with the tailor to get things right. It's tempting to just get the suit or jacket and feel like it's all done…..

@te0o

But if you want bespoke to work, you have to be as diligent as the tailor to make it work.

 

[corpseposeur]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

View attachment 2081025

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

View attachment 2081027
View attachment 2081029

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.
View attachment 2081031
View attachment 2081033

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

From the photos, and keeping in mind photos never tell the whole story of clothing, it looks like a pretty nice British suit. Everything looks sharp.

Sometimes it does take some fittings to get it right on an initial commission. If you do get a second garment from them I think you'd have a better result. Another thing to keep in mind is if they treated you well and it seems like they took care of the issues you experienced.

I have a Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit as well and while I've moved on from their style of cut, I think they offer pretty decent value and worked out any issues I've had as well. I'm sure Hitchcock cuts a nice suit, but you will likely go through similar issues with him or any tailor in that you'd be starting that relationship over.

Bespoke tailoring is like going to a new barber both in expereince and economics. Sometimes they get it right the first time sometimes it takes them a few tries to accomplish what you're going for but in theory once they get it right, I think it's probably best to go back to them.

 

[te0o]

@te0o

Thanks to everyone, I'm glad the suit looks good not just in my eyes but also in the eyes of others.

I hear what @lordsuperb et al are saying and I do agree in principle. But there are a few important things I need to say in the context of this suit:

- This is my first suit commission, but I'd had four pairs of trousers made with them prior
- The jacket looks great in pictures but in my (very humble) opinion still suffers from a short back balance, the sleeves are too narrow, and despite the noticeable improvement on the armhole, this remains too low for a bespoke suit. All things that don't come through in the pictures.
- The trousers are good, albeit not perfect - given they are my 5th pair, I was expecting a better result
- The process of getting them to fix the initial issues has been very painful and frustrating for me - I've had to chase, insist, and point out obvious fit errors in order to get some understanding and get them fixed through several iterations
- I frankly don't like hearing - "it will stretch as you wear it and will get better"

That said, it's been handled cordially (from both sides) which I like. And in the end, we have a fairly good result that I can live with.

I know that a second commission should in theory go better. I just don't know if I have the strength to go through all that frustration again in case it doesn't.

 

[jonathanS]

An update on this Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit. It had some issues initially, mostly around the sleeves and armholes of the jacket and the pleats of the trousers.

View attachment 2081025

I took it in for adjustment after a couple of months of wear. They re-set and re-pitched the sleeves, also reshaped the armhole with a couple of tricks to bring it higher for more comfort. The left sleeve is still not great but it's better than before and I'm okay with this. Overall good result, the jacket is definitely more comfortable and stays more planted on my neck during arm movement.

View attachment 2081027
View attachment 2081029

The trousers had some work done too in order to close up the pleats. They let out the crotch area as well for more comfort which also helped with the look of the front panels. Reduced the size of the turn-ups to the usual 2 inches and also made the inseam half an inch longer. More classic look now, I like it better.
View attachment 2081031
View attachment 2081033

It looks quite decent in my mind right now but I am not sure I'd return for a second suit. They seem to be going for a drape+shape Kilgour house style but there are clearly issues with the execution and their patternwork needs improvement IMO. Sleeves are also too slim still.

If I were getting a second suit with this cut/style, I'd go to Hitchcock, a couple of thousand pounds more expensive but you get what you pay for.

Still, gotta give credit where it's due - they took the suit in and did a fair bit of work, it's certainly more wearable now.

It’s wearable. But I’d find a more reliable bespoke house. IMO. (I was writing this but saw your update so I’ll stop there.)

This is my first suit commission, but I'd had four pairs of trousers made with them prior

Wow. The trousers are wearable but not good. But that happens when the actual maker isn’t a trousermaker.

- The process of getting them to fix the initial issues has been very painful and frustrating for me - I've had to chase, insist, and point out obvious fit errors in order to get some understanding and get them fixed through several iterations
- I frankly don't like hearing - "it will stretch as you wear it and will get better"

That’s wild. I’d find a new maker. It’s not worth the hassle. What’s the fabric? It doesn’t look like the type of fabric that will stretch. Not everyone is okay going back and forth with a tailor for 5 years to get something wearable. I certainly am not.

 

[corpseposeur]

Thanks to everyone, I'm glad the suit looks good not just in my eyes but also in the eyes of others.

I hear what @lordsuperb et al are saying and I do agree in principle. But there are a few important things I need to say in the context of this suit:

- This is my first suit commission, but I'd had four pairs of trousers made with them prior
- The jacket looks great in pictures but in my (very humble) opinion still suffers from a short back balance, the sleeves are too narrow, and despite the noticeable improvement on the armhole, this remains too low for a bespoke suit. All things that don't come through in the pictures.
- The trousers are good, albeit not perfect - given they are my 5th pair, I was expecting a better result
- The process of getting them to fix the initial issues has been very painful and frustrating for me - I've had to chase, insist, and point out obvious fit errors in order to get some understanding and get them fixed through several iterations
- I frankly don't like hearing - "it will stretch as you wear it and will get better"

That said, it's been handled cordially (from both sides) which I like. And in the end, we have a fairly good result that I can live with.

I know that a second commission should in theory go better. I just don't know if I have the strength to go through all that frustration again in case it doesn't.

With this in mind, perhaps it is best to explore different options.

 

[The_Schmidt]

- This is my first suit commission, but I'd had four pairs of trousers made with them prior
- The jacket looks great in pictures but in my (very humble) opinion still suffers from a short back balance, the sleeves are too narrow, and despite the noticeable improvement on the armhole, this remains too low for a bespoke suit. All things that don't come through in the pictures.
- The trousers are good, albeit not perfect - given they are my 5th pair, I was expecting a better result
- The process of getting them to fix the initial issues has been very painful and frustrating for me - I've had to chase, insist, and point out obvious fit errors in order to get some understanding and get them fixed through several iterations
- I frankly don't like hearing - "it will stretch as you wear it and will get better"

That said, it's been handled cordially (from both sides) which I like. And in the end, we have a fairly good result that I can live with.

I know that a second commission should in theory go better. I just don't know if I have the strength to go through all that frustration again in case it doesn't.

I personally find the trouser fit inferior to the coat fit and reading now that this is the fifth trouser they make for you puts the whole thing in a very different perspective.

Not really in contrast with my previous post but rather expanding on the "if its nice to work with them and they seem trustworthy, go for it" point, I does feel a bit that they have used up their credit with you. It should really not be such a hassle.

Again, ultimately your choice, but this does sound like it is a chore working with them and the chances of improvement seem rather slim given that they still struggle so hard with the trousers.

 

[JHWilliams]

It's been a while since I last posted, but I wanted to share two recent commissions from Redmayne's. Both Dugdale's cloths in a soft drape cut.

The lighter blue is from Tropicalaire which is a wonderful bunch for lighterweight fabrics. It's a high twist but doesn't have the sandpaper like quality of Fresco. Finmeresco was a close competitor but didn't have this blue. The idea for this suit was to wear on any occasion that wasn't too formal. These would be more fun weddings, nice dinners and the like. I can probably wear the jacket as a seperate as well.

The midnight blue, is in Dugdale's Town and Country bunch and great stuff. It's a worsted but has a very nice flannel-like feel to it with just a hint of a particularly elegant shine. This would be for the more formal occasions like funerals, formal weddings.The jacket is back with Redmayne's for some minor alterations.

Interestingly this photo made me realize that a semi-spread collar shirt doesn't work as well on me as the spread collar shirt.

Dugdale's cloths seems to have a very distinct character that I really like. They tend to be full bodied, not shiny, they have some interesting colors and patterns while not being excessive.

I'm considering a third suit from Redmayne's in a flannel Glen Check. I'm going to try doing a ventless jacket this time. I'm considering Fox Flannels and Dugdale's and any other cloth that they send over.

Not pictured here, but I've been wearing the Kent & Haste 16oz. blue house tweed around in the colder weather. It serves a very specific need in modern tailoring where you wouldn't wear it to an office, but you can wear it wherever without it feeling too dressed up. It's much more in the military style suit but this one came out very well.

I'm going to try an American bespoke tailor that's reasonably close to me; Joseph Genuardi. I have been wary given my horrible expereinces with tailors in the New York area, but perhaps Hoboken, NJ will be more promising. I've been following his Instagram for a while and I'm optimistic.


View attachment 2078329 View attachment 2078331 View attachment 2078331

Tom Mahon has nailed your fit. The drape cut looks great on you. I wouldn’t venture any further. Spot on

 

[knightdrape]

Few months ago I posted my first fitting from Kay-Jen (Singapore), after which I came back for a second fitting, and finally I have collected my suit.
The first thing I notice is how unpadded & light the jacket was and the high armhole. Movement was easy without constriction. With this suit commission I have learnt that my shoulders were pretty straight and I tend to lean to the left which I have not notice until this point.
Overall it was a great experience and I'm satisfied with the fit of the suit!