Newc's Bespoke Adventure.

[BlackYeti]

New account—not new to SF. Prefer real-life friends.

Don't mean to be rude. I know Despos is a demi-god up'n here. You know I'm right about the sleeves at least, though, esp. considering they're bespoke.

 

[sprout2]

What are you on about the sleeves? Who traffics in 1/8'' increments, much less on a grainy picture? You do realize that 1/8'' will move if you blow on it?
Try making your comment, verbatim, to your favorite tailor and prepare to be shown the door.

I think I might be falling into some kind of troll trap...

 

[rydenfan]

Don't feed the troll. Clearly been banned and now back under a new name

 

[Iyor]

Considering Chris made the shirt too the left sleeve could actually be a touch shorter, I can see the shirt cuff on the right, but not the left.

 

[BlackYeti]

Who traffics in 1/8'' increments...

I think I might be falling into some kind of troll trap...

If I wasn't trolling before, I certainly am now

Not trying to dereail here, just thinking aloud:

I am probably more slender than you but still prefer 8.5cm. Can't say why -- I suppose it comes down to how fitted/loose one wears one's clothes. I guess it relates to the same slim/loose dichotomy in terms of trousers or anything else -- narrow clothes on someone slender can emphasize the lack of physical width. A "skimpy" tie makes me feel skimpier. Maybe it's psychological?

The thing about 8cm in Drakes (or any maker for that matter) is that the finished, pressed tie can vary as much as .5 cm in either direction. I have some Drakes billed as 8cm that are 8.5, and some that are visibly under 3''. It depends on the material and how it was finished. I tend to order ties in 8.5cm and hope they fall close to that. When they do, it's great. When they are smaller, it starts to feel like a shoelace to me. A casual observer would not notice. When they are bigger, on the other hand, it starts to feel oppressive. Funny how 1/8 of an inch or so can seem to make a difference. There is no perfect tie, so I think most of us pick on one direction of the ruler (8<< >>9) and stick with whatever natural variation occurs.

I don't mind Drakes wool ties at all, though, because a too-wide wool tie tends to feel chunky. All things being equal, these distinctions disappear behind a buttoned coat, but I don't love a buttoned-up look all the time, so the question of how wide will look unassuming is constantly a moving target.

 

[soender]

 

[sprout2]

A world of difference between 1/8 on a tie and on a cuff!

 

[soender]

So when my tailor marked that up on my cuff at my last visit, I should have told him to stop and not go into such detail?

 

[sprout2]

You should have walked out

 

[BlackYeti]

A world of difference between 1/8 on a tie and on a cuff!

Honestly, I'd rather have a tie that's 1/8" too narrow than a shirt cuff that's 1/8" too short and, consequently, sometimes hides under the jacket. Shirts wrinkle more quickly than the jacket with wear and the sleeves ride up, so I tend to get mine tailored 1/8" longer than ideal. I don't think I was being out of line making the comment.

 

[dieworkwear]



Honestly, I'd rather have a tie that's 1/8" too narrow than a shirt cuff that's 1/8" too short and, consequently, sometimes hides under the jacket. Shirts wrinkle more quickly than the jacket with wear and the sleeves ride up, so I tend to get mine tailored 1/8" longer than ideal. I don't think I was being out of line making the comment. 

Here's the other way to make sure your shirt cuff always shows.

 

[Patrick R]

It's a stupid comment because it isn't a matter of the length of the short sleeve (or jacket sleeve), it is a matter of the lack of attention to a single detail when taking the photo. The shirtsleeve simply got hung up for whatever reason at the time of the photo.

 

[dieworkwear]



It's a stupid comment because it isn't a matter of the length of the short sleeve (or jacket sleeve), it is a matter of the lack of attention to a single detail when taking the photo. The shirtsleeve simply got hung up for whatever reason at the time of the photo.

Exactly.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[soender]

It did make me steaming mad! What nerve! Next time I will call him dilettante, pull down his fabric books on the floor, and THEN storm out into the street.

 

[BlackYeti]

First, there's no way to know for sure if it's hung up. The left shirt sleeve on the tux jacket is also hidden, suggesting that the tailoring could be the problem.

Second, I'd argue that the right sleeve is also too short given the tendency of shirt sleeves to ride up with wear or, as you say, to get hung up in the jacket.

You may not think peeking shirt sleeves are very important, Derek, but a lot of people do. Look at the stuff Tom Ford makes. His shirts sometimes hit the thumb knuckle.