Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Newcomer, Jan 4, 2015.
You'll never know
I'm gonna hand this thread back to Newc now.
Didn't want to comment in this thread because it is about Newcomer but since you are discussing Moose, will add some details.
First I would ask Moose if the left shirt sleeve is caught up on his watch as most men wear a watch on the left wrist.
Back story is Moose had a shirt made from another shirtmaker. The sleeves were very long and the cuffs were 10 3/4". When I measured his wrists I wouldn't have made the cuffs any bigger than 9 1/2". The shirt cuffs were falling very far down onto his hand. Could have shortened the sleeves but the circumference would still be an issue.
Made the jacket sleeves as long as possible to the break in the wrist to minimize the difference between jacket and shirt but not extend the jacket sleeves to account for misfit shirt sleeves.
The shirtmaker he used said new cuffs would cost him $100.00 and required 6 weeks to make them. I told him I would make him 2 shirts and this was 10 days before his wedding date.
After receiving the shirt fabric we had about 3 days to make the shirts. Moose picked the shirts up on Tuesday or Wednesday before his Saturday wedding so he could launder them. We didn't ever try the shirt with either the tuxedo or the suit. Maybe one or the other needs an adjustment, I don't know.
Moose can add or correct any information here.
I agree of the impact of 1/8th inch. Also agree it is more noticeable on a tie than a sleeve as sleeve length has so many variables of posture and movement and a tie is static.
Sometimes I make lapel width 3 5/8" over 3 3/4" or 3 1/2" because it looks right. Have reduced lapels by 1/8" on two finished jackets in the last 5 years because I thought it would improve the balance. I like 1 5/8" for moderately sized trouser cuffs.
Delivery of Newcomer's suit will be next week. Had a delay as he lost weight between fittings and loss over 2" of mass in the waist and seat. The last jacket fitting was a forward fitting and adjusting the jacket wasn't so difficult but the trouser was finished and had to be recut. Opened the trouser and reduced the front parts and remake the front pockets.
The delay is all on me.
^ This guy is a true professional.
I am very excited to get a few snaps of the finished suit! Can't wait to share it here.
+1 to what Murl said. I could not be more pleased with everything.
Would love to lose 2" of ass mass. You need to share your secret with me, J.
Do you make bespoke shirts, or do you have a maker you work with?
Should probably ask in the despos thread. This is the newcomer thread.
Yes, I will ask there as well. I think its appropriate to ask here also given the comments. Can't hurt.
I am sure once I get pictures back from the professional photographer everything will look much clearer and cleaner. I think the sleeves fit perfect, but they were probably bunched up as I was in a hurry to get to my rehearsal dinner before we took those pictures on my (now)wife's iphone.
With regards to the waist I am sure it would look better if my weight didn't fluctuate, but I was probably at my thinnest that day.
Next time I wear the suit I will take more pictures for you guys.
Now I just need to think of a good reason (and find the cash) to buy more suits and shirts from Chris. If you guys want to send me wedding presents you can send it right to Chris and I'll buy more clothes.
I'm with you moose! I really look forward to the professional photos. I don't have the funds to keep this thread overly active so I appreciate the additional content. I also look forward to examining some of the stylistic differences between your suit and mine.
I have another trip to Chicago I was able to schedule for work so maybe another suit will be in my future .
With that in mind, here are a pair of pants and a jacket I picked up from Chris on Monday. The first shot is a decent representation of the fit and the second is a better representation of the colors and textures. These two pieces weren't intended to be a set, but the jacket is versatile enough that I decided to give them their maiden runs together.
I have another jacket and a suit in process, so I'll bring those to this thread when they are done.
Wow Patrick, that looks great. The fit on both of these is near perfect. What fabric is the jacket made of?? Looks really interesting.
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