MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

[Ketawa]

The only problem is that Sterlingwear has been the only place I could find something in extra long. I had a 40XL first, but it was too snug. It could be that I just got unlucky with the variance and my 42XL is bigger than usual. So I was going to look at vintage for something cheaper or wait until I could try their MTM program.

 

[Peacoat]



Looking for some advice on finding a vintage peacoat. I currently have a size Sterlingwear Authentic in size 42XL. It's kind of boxy-looking. The body is big and the sleeves are huge. I'm 6' 5" and 200 lbs, fairly athletic, hence the vintage route.

My actual measured chest is 43" and the p2p on the Sterlingwear is 23.5". I may have ended up with a large model and I could fit something smaller. Just to accentuate how boxy this thing is, the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement is 20". Vintage coats with this shoulder measurement seem to be around 22-22.5" pit to pit. If I remember correctly I couldn't fit in a 40 because the shoulders were too small.
The sleeves measure 28" from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff, and they hit about halfway between my wrist and the web of my thumb and index finger. I could go about 0.5" shorter here.
The back length is 35" from the top of the collar when it is folded down to the bottom of the hem. There didn't seem to be a standard convention for taking this measurement. The hem hits around the tip of my thumb. This probably shouldn't be any shorter. I had this hem taken up a couple of inches when I bought it since it was too long.

Is it going to be possible to find a vintage coat with sleeves/body long enough to fit me? I haven't been able to find anything close on eBay or VintageTrends, but I haven't been looking long. If I can't find one, I may just bide my time for a good chance to stop at Sterlingwear in Boston and use the MTM option.

That is a huge size 42. It is sized like a 44. No wonder it is large on you. The size you need for a relatively trim fit is a 42, but with the p2p of 22.5, as you said. This is why I recommend getting the p2p measurement and relying on it. The Authentic should fit much smaller than the one you have, and the p2p should be 22.5, just like the issue models.

To measure length of the coat, it should cover your butt and not much more. Using the tip of the thumb isn't a good test, because that length will be a little different for everyone.

You might find a long size in a 42, but I'm not sure it will accommodate your height. The longs are generally about 2" longer in the torso and about an inch longer in the arms. Your best bet may be to stop in at Boston, once Sandy has moved out and all is calm. That way you can see what sizes will actually fit you. While there you might ask about the Spec coat, which is the actual Navy issue peacoat. See the picture Clarinet Player posted of his. It is a nice coat.

BTW, what is Sterlingwear's MTM program?

 

[7_rocket]

Any thoughts on my fit? I can take better pics later

 

[Ketawa]

That is a huge size 42. It is sized like a 44. No wonder it is large on you. The size you need for a relatively trim fit is a 42, but with the p2p of 22.5, as you said. This is why I recommend getting the p2p measurement and relying on it. The Authentic should fit much smaller than the one you have, and the p2p should be 22.5, just like the issue models.

To measure length of the coat, it should cover your butt and not much more. Using the tip of the thumb isn't a good test, because that length will be a little different for everyone.

You might find a long size in a 42, but I'm not sure it will accommodate your height. The longs are generally about 2" longer in the torso and about an inch longer in the arms. Your best bet may be to stop in at Boston, once Sandy has moved out and all is calm. That way you can see what sizes will actually fit you. While there you might ask about the Spec coat, which is the actual Navy issue peacoat. See the picture Clarinet Player posted of his. It is a nice coat.

BTW, what is Sterlingwear's MTM program?

Thanks for the advice, your article is great. This coat actually is the correct length as you describe. I had to shorten the torso but left the sleeves the same length.

I'm intrigued by the Spec coat, as I am in the military and can purchase directly from the Navy Exchange's web site at a very low price. The Spec coast is listed as 100% Melton Wool. This actually has higher armholes and is generally slimmer than the Authentic, correct? I wonder if the coat available at the Navy Exchange is different from the version available to civilians, maybe it has some kind of insignia. There's only one option for both enlisted and officers.

Here are a few posts from this thread about the Sterlingwear MTM program. MTM might be exaggerating, more like a custom ordering option.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/144305/...l-peacoat-questions-here/3960_30#post_5070764
http://www.styleforum.net/t/144305/...l-peacoat-questions-here/3960_30#post_5080839

 

[Dr Huh?]



Any thoughts on my fit? I can take better pics later

It might be too small. I have a thrifted coat, and while it's not a great fit, it doesn't bulge when I have a sweater on underneath. Maybe take some better pics.

 

[clarinetplayer]

Per request from a couple of PM's , here is the Sterlingwear Mil Spec, again. But, this time, with the bottom button fastened. I'm wearing a sweater underneath.

Compared to the vintage peacoat, this coat is softer and a bit roomier--allowing for the sweater. The vintage peacoat weighs a ton and is snug; a sweater would be too tight. For different reasons, they are both great coats. I prefer the more natural shoulders of the vintage to the current Mil Spec issue.

 

[Peacoat]

Any of you thinking of getting a Military Spec need to keep in mind that the coats have become larger over the years. I remember Clarinet Player telling me his Mil Spec in a size 38 measured 21" p2p. That makes it fit like a small size 40 in the vintage models. So, if you have a 38" chest, you might want to consider getting a size 36 in the Mil Spec, but before you do, ask Sterlingwear for a p2p to see how the size 36 is fitted.

[Edit Note: Of course if you size down to a 36, a sweater may not fit underneath.]

 

[jslay301]

I know it's not technically a peacoat, but does anyone know where I can get something similar to this Belstaff greatcoat? I like the longer length, but the price is a bit too high.

http://www.belstaff.com/MEN/READY TO WEAR/JACKETS COATS/71116044-1,en_US,pd.html?start=11&cgid=111B

 

[AriGold]

anyone know how weather resistant is melton wool? what happens if you get caught in rain?

 

[Artking3]



anyone know how weather resistant is melton wool? what happens if you get caught in rain?

It's fine for drizzles and light showers, but get a proper raincoat for downpours.

 

[Dr Huh?]



I know it's not technically a peacoat, but does anyone know where I can get something similar to this Belstaff greatcoat? I like the longer length, but the price is a bit too high.
http://www.belstaff.com/MEN/READY TO WEAR/JACKETS COATS/71116044-1,en_US,pd.html?start=11&cgid=111B

Try Zara. They often have more fashion forward coats at a fairly low price.

 

[mintyfresh]

Is modifying one's peacoat sleeve a difficult task for a tailor? Would they just take it in at the shoulder?

 

[pelican]

This one by RRL is money: http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/...AD/Division/Men&kw=pea+coat&parentPage=search
At $1200, a bit too rich for me.

It would be money without the stupid gold buttons...

 

[RLX009]

I just got my pea coat from: http://www.armynavysuperstores.com/peacoat.htm

I usually wear a 38S, and got the 38, fits perfectly, chest and sleeve, a bit slim but enough space for a thick sweater and scarf. The color is near black but I guess it's a very dark navy. Made in the US, Melton wool, gov issue, legit. The only other one I was considering was the Schott. Compared to the Gosling pic, the only discernable difference is that the shoulder on mine is more squared, so with arm movement there is a bit of peaking. Nor'easter's comin' up so I'll see how it fares in colder weather.

 

[Peacoat]



Is modifying one's peacoat sleeve a difficult task for a tailor? Would they just take it in at the shoulder?

If you want to shorten the sleeves, it is simple. The tailor would take them up at the cuffs, not the shoulder.