MC General Chat

[gdl203]

An $80 tweed jacket I bought on a whim, from eBay, fits me better than my local tailor's bespoke suit. It's also way more comfortable to wear while buttoned.

On one hand, I feel frustration that I dropped $1000 on something that doesn't satisfy me.

On the other hand, elation that an $80 jacket is more satisfying to wear, more comfortable, and will likely get more wear.

Also bodes well for sticking to buying used/vintage in the future, I may not be as hard to fit as I thought.

While it's amazing that you found that jacket that fits you perfectly. it seems like big jump to assume that you will be able to replicate that experience with future vintage purchases.

The best news in all this, is that you are now able to look at that jacket, measure it, and understand what it is about it that makes it so comfortable and pleasant to wear for you.

 

[FlyingHorker]

While it's amazing that you found that jacket that fits you perfectly. it seems like big jump to assume that you will be able to replicate that experience with future vintage purchases.

The best news in all this, is that you are now able to look at that jacket, measure it, and understand what it is about it that makes it so comfortable and pleasant to wear for you.

Bolded is a good point, better to stay grounded and realistic about vintage purchases. Otherwise, it will lead to more disappointment.

Interestingly, the p2p and shoulder measurements are the same as my suit that feels too tight across the entire front.

It drives home the obvious message that I've forgotten: tailored jackets are complex 3D garments where 2D measurements don't tell the full story on fit.

 

[gdl203]

Right - P2P and shoulder across are very basic measurements - front and back can have different volumes so you can measure the different panels (half back, half front chest, etc...) so you can better understand what cut works for you. It sounds like you have a bit of a strong chest (barrel shaped torso?) if most standard jackets are tight across the front. It's a fairly common issue for a lot of guys and MTM adjustments typically exist to cut the front with more room without making the back wider.

In any case, you have a good specimen to better understand what works for you and how to find another jacket like it

 

[FlyingHorker]

Right - P2P and shoulder across are very basic measurements - front and back can have different volumes so you can measure the different panels (half back, half front chest, etc...) so you can better understand what cut works for you. It sounds like you have a bit of a strong chest (barrel shaped torso?) if most standard jackets are tight across the front. It's a fairly common issue for a lot of guys and MTM adjustments typically exist to cut the front with more room without making the back wider.

In any case, you have a good specimen to better understand what works for you and how to find another jacket like it

I should elaborate, most OTR fits me fine. That post was airing my grievances at randomly buying a cheap, used OTR jacket that fit me great; right after I got a bespoke suit that is mediocre.

Yeah, thankfully this jacket will provide a good base moving forward. I just took a chance on an old Brooks jacket with the exact same measurements, so I'll see if I can replicate this success.

 

[clee1982]

sounds like your bespoke guy need to step up or you need to guide him more on your preference?

 

[FlyingHorker]

sounds like your bespoke guy need to step up or you need to guide him more on your preference?

Yeah I've thought about that for the future. I have heard that bespoke can be an iterative process.

I am in the mode of avoiding "sunk cost fallacy" for now and more interested in vintage/used.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Are there any items made under the Brooks Brothers brand today that people still consider to be of quality or value?

 

[smittycl]

Are there any items made under the Brooks Brothers brand today that people still consider to be of quality or value?

Just checked their website and it's pretty depressing. They seem to have done away with their higher end Golden Fleece line completely. Still a few odd size GF sale items but not many. They still have some 1818 suits Made in Italy but a lot are labeled as "Imported" which usually means China or worse.

Might be just me lamenting what they used to be but nothing there looked interesting to me at all.

 

[MattyS]

Are there any items made under the Brooks Brothers brand today that people still consider to be of quality or value?

I still like their USA-made OCBDs, and they have some nice Thomas Mason dress shirts, if the fairly basic design options suit. But yes, the pickings are depressingly slim at this point.

 

[clee1982]

BB’s non OCBD collar always disappoint me though (doesn’t matter what type of spread), regardless fabric

 

[MrG]

I have a quick question I don't think warrants a thread, but I'm guessing you gents can provide some insight.

I picked up an OTR suit with an unstructured coat that fits very well except for a crease that forms on one of the shoulders when I put it on (I'm guessing because I'm asymmetrical). It looks to me like my shoulder doesn't quite fill the coat shoulder out, so there's extra fabric that bunches. This seems to be an issue with every unstructured coat I try; I just happen to like this one enough to want to try to fix it.

Other than this, the shoulders are a great fit.

Is the crease something that can be fixed with tailoring? I'm not looking to rebuild the shoulder of the coat. I'm wondering more if I can perhaps slide in some light padding to compensate for my dropped shoulder.

Anyone tried this with success? I'd like some kind of proof of concept before I consider asking a tailor to do it, as I'm worried he'll go "sure, that'll work!" and leave me unhappy with the outcome.

 

[circumspice]

If you have a few pocket squares, you could try folding them in half and stacking them to simulate a thin pad. That, and after two or three, try using a small square handtowel to simulate something more substantial.

If this works, it might be your best bet to buy something similar in substance and bring that to your alterationst? I have no idea how much padding an alterationist is likely to have on hand if any

 

[RedLantern]

Can anyone recommend a place to mail-in some suit trousers to have a small abrasion rewoven? Or on the off chance anyone here knows of a good place in the greater Seattle area?

 

[Krish the Fish]

French American Reweaving in NYC is amazing at what they do, and incredibly honest about what they think they can do once your clothes get to them. Far from Seattle but may be a good option to keep in your back pocket

 

[JIMIG]

I have a navy cotton canvas "country coat" from Anglo-Italian. It is a very versatile, transitional jacket, and I am really happy with it. I basically wear it as I would a Barbour oilskin jacket, and it fits my use perfectly.

I am considering buying the navy wool version as well, for the colder months. Besides being warmer, I also think it looks a bit more formal than the cotton. Something I can wear casually, but also with tailoring.

I am unsure if this is a stupid move. What do you think about wardrobe duplicates? In this case navy cotton and navy wool. Would you consider this too much of an overlap/redundancy? Should I rather go with something completely different?

I have a topcoat, and planning to add a raglan balmacaan at some point in the future.

(PS: they also have non-navy wool versions, but I (and my wife) prefer navy)

Thank you for all input. I ended up ordering the wool version to try it. It is definitely similar (obviously), but warmer, heavier/more drape, and darker. Long enough to cover my sport coats.

I have attached pictures of both the cotton (first 2) and wool. What do you think of them? Different enough, or am I trying to justify a stupid move?

I am thinking the cotton for autumm/spring (similar to a waxed Barbour) and the wool for winter (a substitute for a longer casual coat, such as a balmacaan).