Indochino suits?

[Karl Drogo]

Collar gap describes the distance between the jacket collar and the shirt collar on your neck - like in that photo of Tom Ford above. It's most noticeable on photos that are taking at a side angle. The photo you showed doesn't really show a collar gap. It's just small, rather narrow shirt collar with a skinny tie and what seems like a narrow shawl collar. Not necessarily a bad look and I can't really see a collar gap there.

The link you quoted above is interesting, one of the photos used is from Indochino's website. Actually, the collar gap is not that visible on the model for me, but the pulling around the top button is something you will often see on Indochino's models.

Edit: On West's suit there is a collar gap (maybe due to his posture on the pic), but it's not the same as on the photo you posted. It's not the distance between the point of the collar to the lapel, but the space as described above.

Edit 2: What VinnyMac said.

Thanks L. (It's CGFA from RFD here.)

Regarding the Kanye West photo, the lower arrow is pointing to a space between the shirt collar points and the jacket lapel. The photo I posted above of Chace Crawford in the shawl lapel jacket and tiny shirt collar also shows a large space between the shirt collar points and the jacket lapel.

I suppose tiny shirt collars aren't as much of a crime as collar gap, otherwise small shirt collars wouldn't be so prevalent.

In this case, I go back to my second reply in this thread (Post #2989) and claim that I cannot see collar gap in any of the photos I posted EXCEPT for the final photo (the closeup of my torso). The jacket lapel seems to rest nicely on the shirt collar all along (except the last photo of course). Maybe I can direct Indochino to "tighten" up the jacket lapel a bit when I request my remake.

Am I getting the wrong impression? I learned about "collar gap" from the following link: http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation

The photo of Kanye West shows what that author is calling "collar gap".

What would be the technical term for the "space between the shirt collar points and jacket lapels"? And is that space a severe issue or is it acceptable?

From that article:

(One note: some people use the phrase “collar gap” to describe the space between the blades of a shirt collar - the place where the tie knot goes. That’s not what we’re talking about here.)

Thanks nautikal. I understand that. I'm not worried about the place where the tie knot goes. I was initially concerned about the space between the blades of the shirt collar and the jacket lapel, of which there is a large void shown in the photo of Chace Crawford in the shawl lapel jacket with tiny shirt collar blades.

 

[VinnyMac]

Thanks L. (It's CGFA from RFD here.)

Regarding the Kanye West photo, the lower arrow is pointing to a space between the shirt collar points and the jacket lapel. The photo I posted above of Chace Crawford in the shawl lapel jacket and tiny shirt collar also shows a large space between the shirt collar points and the jacket lapel.

I suppose tiny shirt collars aren't as much of a crime as collar gap, otherwise small shirt collars wouldn't be so prevalent.

In this case, I go back to my second reply in this thread (Post #2989) and claim that I cannot see collar gap in any of the photos I posted EXCEPT for the final photo (the closeup of my torso). The jacket lapel seems to rest nicely on the shirt collar all along (except the last photo of course). Maybe I can direct Indochino to "tighten" up the jacket lapel a bit when I request my remake.
Thanks nautikal. I understand that. I'm not worried about the place where the tie knot goes. I was initially concerned about the space between the blades of the shirt collar and the jacket lapel, of which there is a large void shown in the photo of Chace Crawford in the shawl lapel jacket with tiny shirt collar blades.

I think that the bottom arrow in the Kanye West photo is meant to further illustrate how the collar isn't sitting flush on his neck. The space between the shirt collar points and the actual lapels isn't a big deal. It's more of a style choice than a fit issue.

 

[Karl Drogo]

Thanks again to all for the ongoing contribution to tweaking my Indochino Navy Cotton Suit.

Today I submitted my remake request. Based on your advice and then my follow-up research, I have arrived at the following assessments:

I made the following adjustments to my online measurement profile, which apparently the Indochino tailors will review and assess compared with the attached photos before beginning production:

Jacket
Jacket/Shirt Length 29.5″ +1.25″
Chest Size 40″ -0.25″
Stomach Size 36.25″ -0.5″
Jacket Hips 42″ -0.25″
Shoulder Size 17.25″ -0.25″
Sleeve Length 25″ Edit
Bicep Size 14.75″ Edit
Wrist Size 10.5″ Edit

Pants
Pants Length 40″ Edit
Waist 33″ Edit
Crotch 25.25″ +0.25″
Pants Hips 40″ Edit
Thigh Size 24.25″ Edit
Knee Size 17″ Edit

 

[vandave]

How does one fix lapel gap?

 

[Karl Drogo]



How does one fix lapel gap?

Might be a silly reply coming from me but I'm praying Indochino will know how to close the darn gap, given that I've provided them with clear photos from multiple angles demonstrating the gaping chasm between my jacket and shirt.

I would suspect tightening up the jacket's chest and neck ought to do it, to make the jacket more flush with my torso. But I'll leave that to the pros. Oddly enough, my first Indochino suit (Essential Navy Suit) doesn't "float" off my body as much as this Navy Cotton Suit. It's like Indochino enlarged my measurements a little bit to make this second suit. My first suit was purchased before they implemented their digital cutting process, while the second suit was purchased after they implemented huge changes including the digital cutting process, BWF collar felts, Bemberg linings, Helsa shoulder pads, etc. Maybe the measurement profile I had on file with them previously did not "translate" itself precisely into their new digital cutting system. Who knows.

I'm hoping these tweaks will adjust this Navy Cotton Suit, and then going forward it will be one-click shopping for identically-fitting clones as if they're churning the suits off the assembly line as carbon copies just for me. But I'm an optimistic fellow.

 

[N0Direction]

Just wanted to say that I'm now patiently waiting for my 4th remake (3 on suit 1, 1 on suit 2) - two for style issues, two for quality issues - and Indochino has been happy to fulfil my requests with no questions each time. They've given me style help, changed options in my remakes (removed ill-thought contrast buttons, replaced the generic monogram I thought of at purchase with a new one I thought of by the time of the remake) and overall just been so accommodating and pleasant in their communications that I will recommend them to anyone. Don't be scared of any bad feedback, take a chance and you have nothing to lose.

Now, with that said, I'll post my Indo suits pics soon and you can tell me if I'm right to be happy or if I look like a fool

 

[raiderbuck]

Hello...a few things 1. Holy crap, I haven't posted on Styleforum in for.ev.er! Things have changed. I like it! 2. I took the plunge on an Indochino suit, and I came back impressed. I ordered their Essential Navy. Nothing special, two button, notch lapel, flap pockets, functional boutonniere..etc. My overall impression is that my suit fits pretty well. I don't have any huge complaints (so far). I do have some things that I'm going to have my local tailor fix though...my list of improvements:

1. Let out the trouser hem a bit. It's too short for my liking. My measurements were taken at the Chicago Traveling Tailor Event, and I wasn't too satisfied with the job they did. I mean, they did what they could do I guess, but I trust myself or my girlfriend a lot more than I trusted the guy measuring me up.

2. My jacket, IMO, is just a little too snug in the chest/waist area. You can't really tell from the pictures, but I feel like my jacket is pulling at bit when buttoned.

3. The Infamous Indochino lapel roll issue. No way I'm reading all the posts in this thread, but I can clearly see a common issue with their jackets is this weird lapel roll. It's almost like the roll was an afterthought. It bothers me because I like to wear my jackets open, and the roll just doesn't "sit" right on the jacket. Fused canvas to blame?

4. It needs a good pressing...this is fresh out of the box, handled a few times by me and my roommate. I'm taking it to the tailor on Saturday to have these adjustments made.

The sleeve length is spot on IMO. The lilac shirt that I'm wearing is a little long, so I've attached some images of the suit with a proper fitting shirt. Please excuse my blank stares into the camera. I was more focused on showing the suit than my face. It's also after midnight, and I have work in the morning haha.

Now, for a few things my tailor can't fix...the thighs in the pants are a tad small. These are by far the slimmest dress pants in my wardrobe, and it'll definitely take some getting used to before these pants sit right with me. I'm a very thin guy, but I still prefer a little breathing room above the knee. I may adjust the thigh measurements before placing an order for another suit. Also, does anyone know if it's possible to purchase suit pants unhemmed? This would just eliminate the hem problem.

Again..overall, for the price, I'm impressed. I would order another one.

 

[StormRider]

Raiderback you are right the chest and waist and tight. much better than my first Indochino suit though.

 

[N0Direction]

If this is your first suit, take those photos, email them in, and ask for feedback - tell them you think the jacket is too tight in the waist/chest, but the shoulders are perfect, and IMO you've got excess fabric in the back at waist height, so maybe it's just a matter of moving the pattern cut. Definitely need a bit more length in the pants.

 

[VinnyMac]

I haven't used Indochino myself, but have heard good things from many other people about their services. For the price, you really can't find a better suit. I heard they also pay up to $75 worth of extra alterations done by your own tailor, and have an iron-clad guarantee. I discuss them in a little depth on my blog boozeandsuits.com check it out some time.

Stop trying to plug your blog in all of your posts.

 

[scotchman]

Yeah, alright. Won't happen again.

 

[StormRider]

After spending weeks emailing back and forth with Indochino customer service (having to write my messages twice in Chinese), they finally understood what I wanted. The latest blazer fit much better, and no wrinkles on the sleeves with my arms in natural position (meaning they actually rotated the sleeve per my instruction). The nice surprise is that they blazer actually came with surgeon’s cuffs without me asking. There is still a bit of gaping vents, but I'll just live with that for now.

Will share some photos later.

 

[Blappy]

Hi all,

I received my first Indochino suit (light tan pinstripe 3-piece) yesterday and would like a bit of input. Apologies for the crap photos but hopefully you can see enough. From my newbie perspective, the one obvious thing is the sleeves are too short, and my left sleeve looks shorter than my right. I could also do with the sleeves being slightly narrower.

Button stance looks high. Annoyingly I had asked for it to be lowered when I placed the order but they said their system wouldn't let them do it.

Trousers are also a touch too long and could be more tapered, but I can get that done locally.

Any other thoughts?

 

[VinnyMac]

Really? The sleeves and the pants length are what you noticed? The button stance isn't bad, but look at how tight the waist is? You've got an X-Men symbol in the middle of your torso. The hips of the pants are too tight. The chest looks too small too. I don't like the way that the double-lapel 3-piece suit looks either. I'd probably stick to either the jacket alone or the vest alone, but that's just my opinion.

 

[toshin]

So my suit ordered Feb 1st has finally shipped!

I was hoping i'd be able to see the submitted measurements in comparison to the garment. Is there anyway to obtain these now?