HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[Mr Knightley]

Nice settled weather here - the Royal Wedding effect...

Spoiler

Blazer - bespoke
Trou - M&S autograph
Shirt - CT
Tie - Budd and pin - Benson & Clegg
PS from local outfitter
Braces - TM Lewin
Shoes - Weejuns

 

[DiplomaticTies]

Finally I could go back to work. Incredible many christian days off for such a pagan nation...
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Spoiler

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Are you sure about that tie to that jacket? I'm not convinced, too shiny. Like the ps though.

Us Nordics may be pagan, but we do like vacation!

 

[Roy Al]

I doubt everything, DT. Even myself...

 

[Newcomer]

@steveabdn

I think you’re on the right path but as you already know from my videos, it is critical that you map out a plan before you begin.

What often happens (and I speak from experience) during the bespoke build-up phase is folks shoot from the hip. They see a fabric and fall in love with it and send it to the tailor to be cut.

The end result is, you end up with a heavily tilted and no so functional wardrobe. You might love the individual pieces but they won’t meet the “balanced portfolio” test.

I suggest you set up a spreadsheet or list, broken down into seasons (including a column for fabric weight) and casual vs business wear. Of course your climate will dictate how you allocate garments.

Once you’ve set up the chessboard, you can then go about researching and sourcing the fabrics that fit right into each column (or row).

You can even set up a column for pricing/budgeting that way you can track the accretive cost of your entire wardrobe or project. You can really go nuts on how many variables you wish to include or you can just keep it simple.

Again depending on your starting budget, you can prioritize which rows or columns need to be tackled first.

The point being: you now have a master plan, your North Star is fixed. You will then execute that blueprint without the distraction of the odd impulse purchase here and there.

If any prevarication occurs, it should be limited to what mills or brands you prefer for each segment.

Alan Bee

Sounds like a way more sensible way than what I could have done

Hi Alan,

I agree that planning is the key to making sure your purchases have a point and contribute to the overall of the wardrobe.

I'm going to combine both activities we are taking about here and produce a model for my proposed wardrobe and how each of the items can be worn.

I'll touch base with you once I have something operable.

Completely separately, I've dropped 6lbs this week so I'm off to a good start!!

Thanks again,
Steve

@steveabdn

One more thing Steve. When you set up your spreadsheet (building block), begin with solids in all categories (both suits and sport coats). If you seek novelty, find it in shades of staple colors and texture.

With solids as your base, you can call it a wrap and still have a very versatile, functional wardrobe with odd pieces that complement one another.

You can address patterns in phase 2 of your build out. That’s largely what I’ve done. I’m mostly done with solids so any further projects will be pattern driven.

Alan Bee

I really enjoyed this conversation, and @Alan Bee's insights.

With AB's pace - and @steveabdn's proposed pace - this seems like the only way to make your bespoke orders.

Personally, I have proceeded on a much more incremental pace - I place one bespoke order per year (or rather, two bespoke orders every two years) - and I firmly believe that day-in, day-out wear is a great indication of how I should place my next order. By way of example, my next order will include, among other things, a mid-grey "fresco-esque" fabric, and that fabric was not even remotely on my radar until I noticed that I have worn through two mid-grey "fresco-esque" suitsupply suits. Stated otherwise, (1) what I think I would use and (2) what I actually use do not always line up.

No longer a virgin to this thread...
Custom.

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@induere_to, I meant to mention this on the S&M thread, but forgot to do so.

As an initial matter, that is a fantastic start - especially for the price of S&M custom. I really like your combination as well.

However, I do think that the balance of the jacket is off (as seen below, in the picture you posted in the S&M pic (as well as the others, but this is the most pronounced)).

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb

Black faced lapels??? In satin or some other exotic fabric I suppose ....

I don't know lord. It was never quite my intention to impersonate a magician.

Regarding the cuffed trousers, I agree entirely. An un-cuffed pair of trousers would achieve a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic. But then again, these are simple odd trousers that do duty as something else when paired up differently.

Alan Bee

Like so....

 

[MrUsedThreads]

#classicmenswear pose!
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#classic "is that your hand in your pocket or are you just happy to see me? pose

 

[MrUsedThreads]

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So I’m at a wedding, in a grass field and we have had a lot of rain. #thursdayboots Diplomat is getting hammered!

I hope that's just mud on those boots...give them a good wash for ya uncle Bobby, please!

 

[MrUsedThreads]

Finally I could go back to work. Incredible many christian days off for such a pagan nation...
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Spoiler

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I love those socks! its like seeing a double rainbow all over again..

 

[Alan Bee]

Like so....

@lordsuperb

Well, Luca is Luca. I've seen stranger things on him.

Alan Bee

 

[Mr. Six]

 

[steveabdn]

@Newcomer

Thanks for your response, much appreciated. The reason for my enthusiastic pace is my size. I'm a big fella and I find that means I'm hard on my clothes. I don't want to buy a single piece and have it worn out by the time I come to place an order for a second. I'd like to have choices in my wardrobe.

This summer through into next spring is about building my autumn wardrobe. I'll be starting with the plain navy suit, followed a month or 2 after receipt with an order for the Glen plaid. That may be as far as my autumn efforts get this year before switching to the summer options and finishing my autumn efforts next year.

I have a real hankering for a double breasted option in there as well. I love the double breasted style thread and @Alan Bee frequently rocking the DB with real panache. I think a navy autumn version of this is definitely a real valid option. I've never even tried one on though, I'll be gutted if it just doesn't work for me !

 

[Alan Bee]

UNDERSTATED ELEGANCE

Suit: Harrison Spring Ram 13oz Frescoesque Cheviot Wool.
Shirt: Thomas Mason Poplin Cotton
Necktie: Charvet
Socks: Bresciani
Shoes: Edward Green Chelsea

Alan Bee

 

[blueberry7]

Do like. A lot.

 

[SJR3]

@Alan Bee I love the shoulders and lapels on all your jackets. Damn good stuff.

 

[Veremund]

Finally I could go back to work. Incredible many christian days off for such a pagan nation...

Have you seen your flag lately?