HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Love it, CP.



    EFV- those blue loafers look great. I really want to get some C&J Cavendish in suede. Perfect tassels, IMO
     


  2. Layered Player

    Layered Player Senior member

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    Living in Maine I see many popped collars, mostly on men who actually work on boats...fully functional at keeping the sun off their necks.

    Crusty and hard, they'd probably snap any popped poseurs like little twigs.

    I like wearing polos with blazers but haven't found a way to not look like Thurston Howell III unless the shirt collar is slightly raised.

    Style tightrope.
     


  3. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ [​IMG]
     


  5. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Sheer poetry.
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is the loudest jacket I will ever own. But the fabric was just too beautiful to turn down. Got a good rate on it as well, as B&T had ordered some for one of their display jackets and had enough left over for another jacket. H&S linen.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    SF Family:
    Post-Imperial
    Howard Yount
    Unipair
     


  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Looks great, Clags! :slayer:
     


  8. Naive Jr.

    Naive Jr. Senior member

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    Dear Upper Crust,

    You are a perfectionist and in secret an aspiring artist to marriage with the Divine.

    I'm impressed by everything, every detail in that photograph, from flowery design of the rug, Webster's(?) Dictionary, that unusual marble-colored artefact (corkscrew?) upright on what appears to be a desk (must not forget to mention the baptismal cleanliness of - would you call your suit color off white, ebony, or ivory?) but are those jacket sleeves equipped with surgical or sham buttonings?
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014


  9. Naive Jr.

    Naive Jr. Senior member

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    Dear Nashorn,

    Don't be so pessimistic about what's left of this incarnation, a colorful boating jacket not so conservative, you are a fixed star in a heavenly constellation, ask for multistripes at N&£, ask your Soul Partner to accompany you to the disco to move so you at least look more mobile - then volume of form and content harmonize in your ear range.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2014


  10. JHT652

    JHT652 Senior member

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    Perhaps a bad photo to use & I didn't express my point clearly. I simply meant that if attempting a blazer & polo, the nautical / yachting look was the way to go. I agree, most people would like a twat, hence why it's not as easy to pull off as it sounds IMO. :)
     


  11. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    After seeing that outstandng shaping, perfect proportions I had to come out of the woods to comment. I've liked a lot of what you've posted, Claghorn, and this jacket is definitely loud, but the pattern showcases your tailor's skills and your good physique exceptionally well. Just for that, it is worth keeping amongst the much more sedate items in your wardrobe! I also wanted to say this - I absolutely love the high rise you get on your trousers. They really elevate your fits. A lot of good dressers on WAYWRN miss out on this aspect. The first button on your jacket is at absolutely the perfect spot for your build .. and the second button right at or very close to your natural waist, where I assume your trouser waistband is sitting. Gives an exceptionally clean and pleasing look. Would you mind posting a photo without your jacket on? hope you don't mind me asking. This pic seals my answer for your MTM vs BnT question. It'll be pretty hard to get that type of shaping/proportions in MTM, but I don't know what you are looking for in your future jackets. Rock on, Claghorn.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014


  12. Evolve

    Evolve Senior member

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    ^ It's a pretty decent fit, no doubt, but to get picky, there are some things that look off to my eye. Firstly, there is the case of Claghorn's oddly sloped shoulders in some of his pics; they are present in this one. Is it a result of bad posture due to poor muscle tone of the back? Intentional monkey pose? Unintentional monkey pose? No one knows. But whatever the case, why doesn't this jacket disguise it? Is this a flaw?

    Also, I think the shoulders of this jacket are too extended. If you follow the silhouette of the outer arms upward from the elbows, they do not make a nice straight line to the shoulder; instead, the line flares back outward, away from the body before meeting the shoulder. This overhang of padding is undesirable, IMO. It also causes the armscyes jut outward at a funky and extreme angle. Rather unattractive, as someone else pointed out in the Good Natured thread. Lastly, why are the sleeves so long/no shirt cuff showing. :confused: An easy fix, no doubt, but still...
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014


  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    If u think C's shoulders are oddly sloped check out mine [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    They r what they r - not a flaw IMO Evolve
     


  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Linen bunches during wear, so linen jackets generally have longer sleeves than their wool counterparts. After several hours of wear, my shirt cuffs are now showing.

    Also, there isn't any padding in the shoulder, but I do see the overhang you're talking about. It's there some of the time, not there others. The diagonal armhole is just how they like cutting their jackets. Not sure it works well with my sloped shoulders(which in themselves I don't mind)

    Regardless, I'm leaning towards returning to MTM.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014


  15. Evolve

    Evolve Senior member

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    Sure, sloped shoulders are an anatomical feature and they "are they they are." But I'm referring more specifically to how the structure of a jacket's shoulders enhance or hide this trait. In some of Claghorn's fits, his shoulders appear very sloped. In others, he appears to have a more normal slope. Based on comments in the Good Natured thread, most seem to prefer the jackets that portray a normal slope. Thus, my wondering if the jackets which exaggerate slope are "flawed" in this sense.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2014


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