HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part II

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by MBreinin

this suit is just gorgeous .... anytime you post it i'll comment ... lol.

as you said, you have broad shoulders, which seem pretty straight ... so it goes without saying that your shoulders will look built in suits. maybe going for minimal padding will help. also a really good tailor can take a half inch or so off each shoulder ... but typically the result wont be as drastic ... so you have to weigh the cost-benefit analysis.

looks like we have very similar measurements ... 43 chest; 18.5 shoulders ... and i think the more natural/soft shoulder look fits me better because of my built shoulders. i've damn near given up on trying to get my chest to 40 or 41 ... lol.

 

[arc]

I kind of feel the same way, MBreinin, but I also think it works well for you. You have an elegant, comfortable undertone to your outfits because of it. If I were you I might not change that even if I could.

I guess I might phrase it that they don't look too big; rather they look like an intentionally relaxed fit. You never look like you don't know what you're doing, which is key.

 

[MBreinin]

Originally Posted by IST66

This is cool. I like the play of light and dark colors.

Originally Posted by niidawg3

this suit is just gorgeous .... anytime you post it i'll comment ... lol.

as you said, you have broad shoulders, which seem pretty straight ... so it goes without saying that your shoulders will look built in suits. maybe going for minimal padding will help. also a really good tailor can take a half inch or so off each shoulder ... but typically the result wont be as drastic ... so you have to weigh the cost-benefit analysis.

looks like we have very similar measurements ... 43 chest; 18.5 shoulders ... and i think the more natural/soft shoulder look fits me better because of my built shoulders. i've damn near given up on trying to get my chest to 40 or 41 ... lol.

Yeah, my shoulders are very straight. As I go on and I learn what is going to work for me, and what isn't, my wardrobe is changing. I love those Chester Barrie era RLPL suits, and I have four of them, but they have some big ass padded shoulders. I have one right now at the tailors. I had the pads taken out and then went in for a fitting yesterday. The shoulders were way too big, so they are taking them down. We will see how well that alteration comes out. If it works well, I may entrust more jackets to them for the procedure.

Like you, I also prefer a soft shoulder, but it can be harder to find. Look at that first pic, the vintage Morty Sills. That has a very structured shoulder, but it is barely 18, 18.5 inches. It is a tight fit, but I think that one works, depsite the harder shoulders. Whoever that was made for was almost identical to me in size, with a slightly smaller chest.

The cream suit is a Freeman's, so it was obviously MTM for someone. That jacket is actually a little big in the waist, but I am not touching it. The pants, however, were another story. I had to have them completely re-done. The original owner of that suit must have been a body builder with chicken legs. The pants have no hips and the legs are tight above the knee. It took massive work to get them to the point where I could wear them...and I am not hippy in any way.

I hear you on the 40's. I had this plan that I called "Operation 40." I was hitting the gym every day and doing alot of cardio in an effort to reduce the chest padding zone. But, like all good plans..."Operation 40" was replaced by "Operation Stoli," which is a much more enjoyable plan anyway.

Mike

 

[MBreinin]

Originally Posted by arc

I kind of feel the same way, MBreinin, but I also think it works well for you. You have an elegant, comfortable undertone to your outfits because of it. If I were you I might not change that even if I could.

I guess I might phrase it that they don't look too big; rather they look like an intentionally relaxed fit. You never look like you don't know what you're doing, which is key.

Very kind words, and I appreciate them!

Mike

 

[clarinetplayer]

Originally Posted by IST66

This last picture says everything. The stripe contrast between shirt and tie offset by the pocket square knock this right out of the park.

 

[Tibor]

My 1926 will be ready tomorrow after 2 years of not having it. I also got a new stunning brand new Giorgio Armani suit today.

 

[Parker]

Looking forward to seeing that 1926 suit, Tibor. New GA? I thought you wore 100% vintage.

 

[D Yizz]

Originally Posted by niidawg3

this suit is just gorgeous .... anytime you post it i'll comment ... lol. as you said, you have broad shoulders, which seem pretty straight ... so it goes without saying that your shoulders will look built in suits. maybe going for minimal padding will help. also a really good tailor can take a half inch or so off each shoulder ... but typically the result wont be as drastic ... so you have to weigh the cost-benefit analysis. looks like we have very similar measurements ... 43 chest; 18.5 shoulders ... and i think the more natural/soft shoulder look fits me better because of my built shoulders. i've damn near given up on trying to get my chest to 40 or 41 ... lol.

Originally Posted by MBreinin

Yeah, my shoulders are very straight. As I go on and I learn what is going to work for me, and what isn't, my wardrobe is changing. I love those Chester Barrie era RLPL suits, and I have four of them, but they have some big ass padded shoulders. I have one right now at the tailors. I had the pads taken out and then went in for a fitting yesterday. The shoulders were way too big, so they are taking them down. We will see how well that alteration comes out. If it works well, I may entrust more jackets to them for the procedure. Like you, I also prefer a soft shoulder, but it can be harder to find. Look at that first pic, the vintage Morty Sills. That has a very structured shoulder, but it is barely 18, 18.5 inches. It is a tight fit, but I think that one works, depsite the harder shoulders. Whoever that was made for was almost identical to me in size, with a slightly smaller chest. The cream suit is a Freeman's, so it was obviously MTM for someone. That jacket is actually a little big in the waist, but I am not touching it. The pants, however, were another story. I had to have them completely re-done. The original owner of that suit must have been a body builder with chicken legs. The pants have no hips and the legs are tight above the knee. It took massive work to get them to the point where I could wear them...and I am not hippy in any way. I hear you on the 40's. I had this plan that I called "Operation 40." I was hitting the gym every day and doing alot of cardio in an effort to reduce the chest padding zone. But, like all good plans..."Operation 40" was replaced by "Operation Stoli," which is a much more enjoyable plan anyway.

Mike
What is involved in reducing a suit's shoulders? How much will a tailor be able to take in? Some of you may remember a pic of one of my suits in which nii comented that the shoulders were too big. I am happy with that suit's fit, except of course for the shoulders. By the way, I do not understand that suit's fit, because it is very slim, but extremely wide at the shoulders. Even though I am broad shouldered, it still big for me, so I cant imagine how it'll look on a scrawny model's body.

 

[MBreinin]

Originally Posted by D Yizz

What is involved in reducing a suit's shoulders? How much will a tailor be able to take in? Some of you may remember a pic of one of my suits in which nii comented that the shoulders were too big. I am happy with that suit's fit, except of course for the shoulders. By the way, I do not understand that suit's fit, because it is very slim, but extremely wide at the shoulders. Even though I am broad shouldered, it still big for me, so I cant imagine how it'll look on a scrawny model's body.

Honestly, I don't know. I know my tailor made some marks on the shoulders and off it went. We will see.

I am a real hands on person and I like to do my own work. I swear, one of these days I am going to get a good sewing machine and a book on Tailoring and learn. I have plenty of old stuff I could ruin in the name of learning alterations. LOL.

Mike

 

[Tibor]

Originally Posted by Parker

Looking forward to seeing that 1926 suit, Tibor. New GA? I thought you wore 100% vintage.
Thank you Parker. Yes the suit is brand new but it looks straight out of the late 1930's. Its a black virgin wool cloth, with a gray chalk stripe, double breasted 6x2, very wide horizontal like peak lapels with the right amount of belly( not to much not to little), and a great amount of waist suppression. It drapes very, very well. I wear a lot of brand new clothes but it has to go with my vintage or bespoke hats. I would say 50% vintage 50% modern.

 

[clarinetplayer]

The nicest day we've had all summer.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

 

[Parker]

Originally Posted by Tibor

Thank you Parker. Yes the suit is brand new but it looks straight out of the late 1930's. Its a black virgin wool cloth, with a gray chalk stripe, double breasted 6x2, very wide horizontal like peak lapels with the right amount of belly( not to much not to little), and a great amount of waist suppression. It drapes very, very well. I wear a lot of brand new clothes but it has to go with my vintage or bespoke hats. I would say 50% vintage 50% modern.

The couple Armani things I had always draped well. I'm not sure if it's the cut or the fabric, but the pants kept an especially great line.

 

[MalfordOfLondon]

Some cashmere and marinella action...

 

[MrChris]

Originally Posted by StephenStyle

Some cashmere and marinella action...

Killer jacket!

IST66 Interesting combination there, not something you see everyday. I think the shirt and tie works quite well together.

MBreinin - Great sports coats , no. 1-3. I think the third one has the best fit in the shoulder area.

 

[MrChris]

Originally Posted by Rada

I think many would say this jacket is too short... I, personally, think it's perfection

Thanks for your positive feedback!