First real suit

[bvbellomo]

It will differ hugely. The main problem will be getting a sales associate who wants to tell you to wear something too short or tight as that is how many otr suits are modelled, You probably know this for instance, but the grey suit you poster a picture of is perhaps 1 or 2 inches too short in the body (and an inch too long in the sleeves) so you really need to look for something a little longer. Other issues with that suit are button stance (fastens too high) and balance (too short on the front),

The grey suit only had 1 dimension to choose size. You can't see in the photo, but those are 42 inch pants - I normally wear 34 - and I had to buy them to get a jacket that fit over my shoulders. No alterations were done as I only expected to wear it once. But this was actually nicer and cheaper than renting suits or tuxedos, which are never altered and cheaper material. My own rental tuxedo pants split right in half during my own wedding - but I am divorced, so that was hardly the worst disaster that day. This is what happens when you try to dress formal on a budget and why I am willing to spend a little more. But I am no expert on fit, and need to count on a sales associate for that. I am not expert on style either, but I can at least research and choose colors, single vs double breasted, etc before purchasing.

 

[JustinW]

Best bang for buck right now:

Spier and Mackay are running a 20% off all sale items this weekend. There are quite a few suits included in the sale. You can mix and match fits (slim or contemporary) as well as top and bottom size (ie, you aren’t restricted to the usual Drop 6).

Not on sale but also available there are a couple of full canvas suits.

Budget a little extra for tailoring tweaks when it arrives.

 

[bvbellomo]

If the job has several interviews in the process, and you wear the same suit for all, it will be obvious you have 1 suit

And if other candidates wear different suits, it will be obvious they own more than 1. At a job that requires wearing a suit every day, a man should own multiple suits. But a professor rarely wears a suit for work. I hope it wouldn't influence a hiring decision, but if it is obvious the other candidates own 1 suit and I own several ill fitting cheap suits, I look weird. It is less of an issue if I own 1 impeccable suit and they have several.

 

[bvbellomo]

Should I consider full canvas suits? As a bulkier guy, less is probably more as far as internal support structure. This is another option to know ahead of time, and why I won't be making an immediate purchase.

 

[Bromley]

Unless you're set on owning two suits, maybe you'd be better served by getting one suit, and one versatile sport coat/pants combination? If you're looking to go a step above off-the-rack tailored clothing, it might be helpful to find a tailor whose work you like, pay them visit, and don't be shy about asking any question that comes to mind.

Cleveland is not so far from Adrian Jules in Rochester. They do really nice made-to-measure work. I've also heard good things about 1701 Bespoke in Detroit (it's made-to-measure). I don't know if Chris Despos is taking new clients, but he does proper bespoke in Chicago, and his work is outstanding.

 

[compuccesory]

Go to your local Bonobos store and try on different sized suits until you narrow down what your OTR jacket and pant sizes are. You seem like a pretty tall guy so you might need an "L" jacket but other than that you don't look to have any particularly weird proportions or third arm sticking our of your back so you will probably be just fine with OTR. Do the same with Brooks brothers, Ralph Lauren and Suit Supply if they have stores nearby.

Brooks brothers half canvas suits are around $250-$300 on sale. Golden Fleece full canvas suits are around $400-$600. Suit Supply is about the same or a little more. That's what you should expect for a place with a physical retail presence. I would not spend $20,000 on a suit.

 

[bvbellomo]

Unless you're set on owning two suits, maybe you'd be better served by getting one suit, and one versatile sport coat/pants combination? If you're looking to go a step above off-the-rack tailored clothing, it might be helpful to find a tailor whose work you like, pay them visit, and don't be shy about asking any question that comes to mind.

Cleveland is not so far from Adrian Jules in Rochester. They do really nice made-to-measure work. I've also heard good things about 1701 Bespoke in Detroit (it's made-to-measure). I don't know if Chris Despos is taking new clients, but he does proper bespoke in Chicago, and his work is outstanding.

Cleveland is not close to Rochester or Detroit. I wouldn't rule out a road trip, but only if I knew what I wanted so as to only make 1 or 2 trips. I have no idea what the cost would be.

I don't see much benefit to owning a sport coat - I can't wear it to interviews or other occasions that call for a suit, and it looks overdressed at most occasions that don't. Maybe for a formal restaurant.

 

[Bromley]

Ah, in my life 2 and 4 hour drives are not very far, sport coats are considered formal enough for special occasions, and I email companies to ask for price lists.

 

[bvbellomo]

Go to your local Bonobos store and try on different sized suits until you narrow down what your OTR jacket and pant sizes are. You seem like a pretty tall guy so you might need an "L" jacket but other than that you don't look to have any particularly weird proportions or third arm sticking our of your back so you will probably be just fine with OTR. Do the same with Brooks brothers, Ralph Lauren and Suit Supply if they have stores nearby.

Brooks brothers half canvas suits are around $250-$300 on sale. Golden Fleece full canvas suits are around $400-$600. Suit Supply is about the same or a little more. That's what you should expect for a place with a physical retail presence. I would not spend $20,000 on a suit.

I am 6 feet tall, almost exactly, and not unusually proportioned, although many clothes are made for really skinny guys or really fat guys. I have a muscular torso, skinny arms and relatively narrow waist/hips. Any suit jacket that is the right length and fits my shoulders is probably fine, which is why I said weight gain or loss is not likely an issue (as it is probably designed for someone much heavier). I am obviously not looking for a skin-tight fit.

 

[bvbellomo]

Ah, in my life 2 and 4 hour drives are not very far, sport coats are considered formal enough for special occasions, and I email companies to ask for price lists.

Rochester is over 4 hours - over 8 hours driving if I go back home. I have e-mailed a few makers about prices, but got no reply. My guess is they don't want to deal with someone who doesn't know what they want, especially on a lower budget.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Rochester is over 4 hours - over 8 hours driving if I go back home. I have e-mailed a few makers about prices, but got no reply. My guess is they don't want to deal with someone who doesn't know what they want, especially on a lower budget.

who were these makers?

 

[bvbellomo]

who were these makers?

I don't know and can't find the e-mails. Maestro is the one I was planning to stop in at, but not one of the ones I e-mailed.

 

[bvbellomo]

Back to canvas - is full canvas always better? Does it matter by body type?

 

[compuccesory]

Yes it's always better. Full canvas will be lighter, more breathable and significantly more comfortable than a fused jacket(half canvas jackets are fused). Only downside is cost.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Back to canvas - is full canvas always better? Does it matter by body type?

Don’t confuse full canvassed with quality. There’s a lot of Chinese made crap that’s fully canvassed but otherwise cheaply made.