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First real suit

bvbellomo

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They mentioned that separates program, and tailoring an off the rack pair of pants, but said I'd need to try pants on to better understand the options.

I tried on a 44 blue suit jacket I really liked that was too small, as well as a 46 that IMO fit better, both very different styles (although all Regent sized). They quickly decided neither fit and had me out before I could snap a picture, however both had the same break in the chest. The issue isn't the chest is too small, it folds, and so does a too large jacket. They suggested stiffer fabric to bend without creasing, which would have to be custom.

I will try Saks if I go retail, but might wait until I am a few pounds lighter.

What is the difference between a suit and blazer? I thought it was only whether it came with pants.
 

oucheebooboo

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They mentioned that separates program, and tailoring an off the rack pair of pants, but said I'd need to try pants on to better understand the options.

I tried on a 44 blue suit jacket I really liked that was too small, as well as a 46 that IMO fit better, both very different styles (although all Regent sized). They quickly decided neither fit and had me out before I could snap a picture, however both had the same break in the chest. The issue isn't the chest is too small, it folds, and so does a too large jacket. They suggested stiffer fabric to bend without creasing, which would have to be custom.

I will try Saks if I go retail, but might wait until I am a few pounds lighter.

What is the difference between a suit and blazer? I thought it was only whether it came with pants.
While not verified by yours truly, I dug up the following "blazer heritage":

"The origin of the blazer goes back to the Captain of the frigate HMS Blazer, who in 1837 was faced with a visit to his ship by Queen Victoria. To smarten up his shabby-looking crew the Captain had short jackets in navy blue serge, with brass Royal Navy buttons, made up for his men."


- Paul Keers, A Gentleman's Wardrobe

Your understanding of suit vs blazer is basically correct; however, there are a few more slight differences between blazers*, sport coats, and suit jackets:
  1. Traditionally, blazers were solid-colored, with very little or no pattern. (Fabrics and patterns are more varied on sport coats; you’ll see more solids and worsted wools on suits.)
  2. Blazers were meant to be worn with non-matching pants.
  3. Blazers often come with buttons that do not match the jacket, and visibly “pop”: metal (the shiny, gold ones seen in your pic), silver, or even ivy, or club-affiliated (although certainly NOT a requirement.)
  4. Pockets on sport coats and suit jackets are often different (patch pockets more often seen on sport coats; flap or jetted more often seen on suits)
  5. Blazers are often cut differently than suit jackets (sometimes a bit shorter, for example)
  6. You'll find softer shoulders more typically on sport coats than on suits.
The most important of the above is that blazers/sport coats were meant to NOT be worn with matching pants.

*(Understand that nowadays, many use sport coat and blazer interchangeably)
 

oucheebooboo

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They mentioned that separates program, and tailoring an off the rack pair of pants, but said I'd need to try pants on to better understand the options.

I tried on a 44 blue suit jacket I really liked that was too small, as well as a 46 that IMO fit better, both very different styles (although all Regent sized). They quickly decided neither fit and had me out before I could snap a picture, however both had the same break in the chest. The issue isn't the chest is too small, it folds, and so does a too large jacket. They suggested stiffer fabric to bend without creasing, which would have to be custom.

I will try Saks if I go retail, but might wait until I am a few pounds lighter.

What is the difference between a suit and blazer? I thought it was only whether it came with pants.
Congrats for heading to a retailer!

The Regent does seem tight in the chest, but it also seems from your your pictures that you naturally adopt a shoulders-back stance.

I 'm surprised they didn't suggest a Madison for you. Any in store? (fuller cut, more room in the chest and waist than Regent).
 

bvbellomo

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They discussed a Madison, but did not give me one to try, they didn't have my size. They did say I could not wear Madison pants. They were happy with the way this 'blazer-sold-with-matching-pants' fit, and felt while a Madison might be better, they felt it wouldn't be a huge difference, nor would it solve the chest bend issue.

I wish I snapped a picture of the 46, which oddly felt too small and too big at the same time, and had the same chest problem.

They think losing weight may help, but I think it might make it worse. If I lose 1/4" off my chest, I will lose at least 1" off my belly, and that just makes the angle bigger. We will see, February is the heaviest month for me. I should be down 15 lbs by the end of May, which is probably when I should buy a suit.

I don't think I am shoulder-back. I am barrel chested, and if I were just a skeleton, my chest would still stick out.
 

FlyingHorker

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Wear a collared shirt underneath, otherwise it's not an accurate picture for fit.
 

ter1413

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Took the advice to go to Brooks Brothers. This is a 45 Regent fit, which they said was "perfect" except the break across the chest, which they said could only be fixed with a custom made suit, but might be significantly better if I lost a little weight. They did suggest made to measure for the pants, since I am approximately a 9 inch drop - I didn't see the point as I wasn't happy with the jacket. They were professional and friendly and know their product, but I expected better for a fit.

Is it as bad as I think? What exactly is wrong?

View attachment 1341456

Did you not read my advice on the previous page?

Wear a PROPER shirt when trying on jackets. If you wear an undershirt, wear one along with the shirt. You won't be wearing a suit with a t-shirt..or whatever you have on.

101 re buying a suit.
 

bvbellomo

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Did you not read my advice on the previous page?

Wear a PROPER shirt when trying on jackets. If you wear an undershirt, wear one along with the shirt. You won't be wearing a suit with a t-shirt..or whatever you have on.

101 re buying a suit.
I don't always carry one with me, nor do I always plan my day ahead. I happened to be near a Brooks Brothers and went in. If this was an issue, the salespeople did not mention it.
 

ter1413

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I don't always carry one with me, nor do I always plan my day ahead. I happened to be near a Brooks Brothers and went in. If this was an issue, the salespeople did not mention it.
Then the salesperson was just trying to make a sale. It IS an issue.
 

dieworkwear

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Took the advice to go to Brooks Brothers. This is a 45 Regent fit, which they said was "perfect" except the break across the chest, which they said could only be fixed with a custom made suit, but might be significantly better if I lost a little weight. They did suggest made to measure for the pants, since I am approximately a 9 inch drop - I didn't see the point as I wasn't happy with the jacket. They were professional and friendly and know their product, but I expected better for a fit.

Is it as bad as I think? What exactly is wrong?

View attachment 1341456
This jacket looks a little too tight for you across the chest. I think that's why the lapel is buckling. Don't think a different fabric would help. A dress shirt will not make a difference.

Stylistically, I also think the lapel is too narrow for your frame. You may want to seek out a different jacket model and/ or consider custom.
 

bvbellomo

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Then the salesperson was just trying to make a sale. It IS an issue.
The salesperson had many many shelves and racks full of collared dress shirts. They could have let me try on one without buying it, or they could have tried to sell me one.
 

bvbellomo

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This jacket looks a little too tight for you across the chest. I think that's why the lapel is buckling. Don't think a different fabric would help. A dress shirt will not make a difference.

Stylistically, I also think the lapel is too narrow for your frame. You may want to seek out a different jacket model and/ or consider custom.
I do want a larger lapel. Their salespeople insisted I was a size 45, and this may have been the only size 45 jacket in the store. A size 46 buckled the same way.
 

dieworkwear

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I do want a larger lapel. Their salespeople insisted I was a size 45, and this may have been the only size 45 jacket in the store. A size 46 buckled the same way.
The model's cut may just not be right for you.

I think it's always nice to be able to see how a sport looks with the rest of your rig, including having tailored trousers and a dress shirt. But the only time I've ever needed to wear one is when hemming the jacket's sleeves. If the micro differences between a t-shirt and a dress shirt make a difference in terms of how the body fits, you're probably wearing a jacket that's too small for you. Exhaling would probably make more of a size difference.
 

ter1413

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The salesperson had many many shelves and racks full of collared dress shirts. They could have let me try on one without buying it, or they could have tried to sell me one.

You are right. Go on next time with a wife beater on.
 

breakaway01

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Took the advice to go to Brooks Brothers. This is a 45 Regent fit, which they said was "perfect" except the break across the chest, which they said could only be fixed with a custom made suit, but might be significantly better if I lost a little weight. They did suggest made to measure for the pants, since I am approximately a 9 inch drop - I didn't see the point as I wasn't happy with the jacket. They were professional and friendly and know their product, but I expected better for a fit.

Is it as bad as I think? What exactly is wrong?
you have a very prominent chest and it may be hard for you to get a good fit in RTW. Just going up in the chest size may lead to shoulders being too wide and too much room in the back. The trousers will certainly be too large for your drop.

you might actually be the uncommon person who needs custom, but the person fitting you needs to recognize your fit issues and the system they use has to be able to accommodate the necessary changes to the block pattern (if you’re using MTM).
 

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