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Epaulet

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Wilhelm NL Leader.jpg


Hey guys! We're about a week away from taking delivery of 150 rivet chinos (all the preorders plus a bunch of open stock), so I figured its a good time for a new chino project.

This morning I launched a new collection of fabrics for the Wilhelm. And... since things are confusing... I want to quickly explain what the "Wilhelm" is. Let me do a timeline:

2010: We introduce our slim trouser (the Walt) and our slim chino (the Rivet)

2011: We have a lot of customers who need more room in the legs than these fits offer. So we design the "Rudy" as a trouser shape with larger thighs, more room in the seat, and a higher rise.

2016: We introduce the "Sandow" chino as the casual, Los Angeles-made version of this Rudy trouser. It's named for Eugen Sandow, the godfather of bodybuilding.

2017: I'm advised that Sandow is a registered trademark of another clothing company, so I change the name of this to the Wilhelm, which is Eugen Sandow's real middle name. And not taken.

2018-2022: We make some Wilhelm chinos and jeans. They're like 90% of the way there, but not quite as generous in fit as they should be.

2023: We take the Wilhelm fit and optimize it further. This final fit is sent to RTC for custom trousers and it really WORKS. We apply it locally to make the Garand chino, which arrived a few months back. I named it "Garand" because of its specific WWII styling and the selvedge detail.

Also 2023: I realize that I'm just confusing TF out of everyone with these names, so I decide to discontinue the "Garand" name for good, and apply that excellent fit to the "Wilhelm."

So long story short: If you have ever worn a Rudy, Sandow, Wilhelm, or Garand before... you're going to absolutely LOVE the new Wilhelm fit. It will work for anyone who wore these shapes, and it will work better. I'm confident that this is the best chino for bigger legs on the market.

AND.. you don't necessarily need bigger legs. The brilliant thing is that it still works for guys who don't need the extra room but prefer a looser fit.

So with all of that said, check out this rad preorder project that we have online and I'm going to tell you all about the fabrics in the next post...
 

utopiaburger

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View attachment 1994993

Hey guys! We're about a week away from taking delivery of 150 rivet chinos (all the preorders plus a bunch of open stock), so I figured its a good time for a new chino project.

This morning I launched a new collection of fabrics for the Wilhelm. And... since things are confusing... I want to quickly explain what the "Wilhelm" is. Let me do a timeline:

2010: We introduce our slim trouser (the Walt) and our slim chino (the Rivet)

2011: We have a lot of customers who need more room in the legs than these fits offer. So we design the "Rudy" as a trouser shape with larger thighs, more room in the seat, and a higher rise.

2016: We introduce the "Sandow" chino as the casual, Los Angeles-made version of this Rudy trouser. It's named for Eugen Sandow, the godfather of bodybuilding.

2017: I'm advised that Sandow is a registered trademark of another clothing company, so I change the name of this to the Wilhelm, which is Eugen Sandow's real middle name. And not taken.

2018-2022: We make some Wilhelm chinos and jeans. They're like 90% of the way there, but not quite as generous in fit as they should be.

2023: We take the Wilhelm fit and optimize it further. This final fit is sent to RTC for custom trousers and it really WORKS. We apply it locally to make the Garand chino, which arrived a few months back. I named it "Garand" because of its specific WWII styling and the selvedge detail.

Also 2023: I realize that I'm just confusing TF out of everyone with these names, so I decide to discontinue the "Garand" name for good, and apply that excellent fit to the "Wilhelm."

So long story short: If you have ever worn a Rudy, Sandow, Wilhelm, or Garand before... you're going to absolutely LOVE the new Wilhelm fit. It will work for anyone who wore these shapes, and it will work better. I'm confident that this is the best chino for bigger legs on the market.

AND.. you don't necessarily need bigger legs. The brilliant thing is that it still works for guys who don't need the extra room but prefer a looser fit.

So with all of that said, check out this rad preorder project that we have online and I'm going to tell you all about the fabrics in the next post...
Looks great! Will definitely be in for 2-3 pairs.

A few questions:

1. When does the preorder close?

2. What's the difference between the Kaihari selvedge and Cramerton twill?

3. Do you have any photos of rivets/jeans similar to the Yoshiwa indigo confetti? I think they'll be great for hiding stains from the kids :D but wondering what they will look like all made up.
 

Epaulet

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Looks great! Will definitely be in for 2-3 pairs.

A few questions:

1. When does the preorder close?

2. What's the difference between the Kaihari selvedge and Cramerton twill?

3. Do you have any photos of rivets/jeans similar to the Yoshiwa indigo confetti? I think they'll be great for hiding stains from the kids :D but wondering what they will look like all made up.
Thank you so much!

1) We'll probably keep it open for 10 days or so. Styleforum is going to promote this for us over the weekend as the sought-after "Big legs" chino. Our team is busy finishing up the huge Rivet production run, so there's no big rush to close it until they're done with those. Still about a week or so out on that.

2) Kaihara Selvedge is awesome. If you're deciding between the two and the price difference is alright, then 100% go for that. The fabric has very subtle slubby texture and an awesome hand. The selvedge detail is very cool, but this would be a premium Japanese cloth regardless. It's the kind of fabric you'd see used on a Japanese brand that's over $250 or so.
The Khaki Cramerton is solid and a cloth that we typically use as a basic. It's milled in the USA, it wears well, and it holds up to a lot of use. I'm offering it as an opening price point.

3) I don't have any pics in that fabric, it's brand new for us. But it's AWESOME. I'm actually going to offer it in our full RTC shapes as well, it's really that good. Brilliant option for custom trousers and jackets. I do have a graphic mockup of it...

Screen Shot 2023-07-25 at 3.51.15 PM.png
 

Churchill W

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Also 2023: I realize that I'm just confusing TF out of everyone with these names

This. I also find it difficult as I can't find somewhere on the site that lays out the different fits.

Could be the anesthesia I was on, but I was getting confused even reading through the timeline.
 

Epaulet

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For the Laidback shorts, how did y'all size?

I have a pair of Rivets in size 32 in the hematite twill and I think they fit OK. Otherwise I wear size 30 for most mall brands.

Can't decide if I should go small or medium.

Oh definitely go for a Small, that should work great for you!

This. I also find it difficult as I can't find somewhere on the site that lays out the different fits.

Could be the anesthesia I was on, but I was getting confused even reading through the timeline.

I should really lay this out on a chart, but here's a summary of our current fits, which are available either through our Los Angeles stock production or custom via Rochester Tailored clothing.

Slim Leg: Driggs (RTC)

Standard Leg: Rivet Chino (LA), Walt (RTC)

Larger Leg: Wilhelm (LA & RTC), Laidback Pant (LA), Laidback Short (LA), EZ Pant (LA), Taylor (RTC), Nico (RTC)
 

Epaulet

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Thanks Eva, ordered!
Thank you and great choices!

Oh and for anyone reading this who's about a 33 or 34 in our pants... check out the RAD Nike Runner pants that Churchill W has in his signature. The Gyakusou collection is so cool and those look great! I'd buy them in a heartbeat if they were my size.
 

Epaulet

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Quick RTC update.. we just received this beautiful "Tuscan Linen Tattersall" sportcoat, and this fabric is such a stunner. We probably made around 15 individual garments in it, and the pattern is just ace.

There's enough left for 2 or 3 more pieces. We have it listed for both the Princeton Jacket and our custom Trousers, but it could be used for any of our shapes. If you want to commission a piece and you don't see the options online, just message me and I can set it up for you.

Nuovo Tuscan Tattersall1.jpg
Nuovo Tuscan Tattersall2.jpg
Nuovo Tuscan Tattersall3.jpg
 

Churchill W

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Thank you and great choices!

Oh and for anyone reading this who's about a 33 or 34 in our pants... check out the RAD Nike Runner pants that Churchill W has in his signature. The Gyakusou collection is so cool and those look great! I'd buy them in a heartbeat if they were my size.
Yeah disappointed they are too big for me! The sizing with the Gyakusou stuff wasn't consistent enough for me. I have tights from the same collection and they were too small in my regular size ad sized up on these and they were too big.
 

Michigan Planner

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Quick RTC update.. we just received this beautiful "Tuscan Linen Tattersall" sportcoat, and this fabric is such a stunner. We probably made around 15 individual garments in it, and the pattern is just ace.

There's enough left for 2 or 3 more pieces. We have it listed for both the Princeton Jacket and our custom Trousers, but it could be used for any of our shapes. If you want to commission a piece and you don't see the options online, just message me and I can set it up for you.

View attachment 1997339 View attachment 1997341 View attachment 1997343

No need for a sportcoat any more but that is gorgeous. Is that 100% linen?
 

Epaulet

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No need for a sportcoat any more but that is gorgeous. Is that 100% linen?
Yup! We did a lot of great pieces in it.. including the Teba. It's really SO boss as a Teba jacket.

It's one of the opening price point promo fabrics, so still a great deal! If anyone wants to commission a piece, just drop me a line through the chat function of the site.

BTW did I ever mention that our Teba has a functional top button? Not sure when you'd ever wear the collar popped up like that, but it's nice to have the option:

Teba Linen7.jpg
Teba Linen5.jpg
Teba Linen4.jpg
Teba Linen2.jpg
 

Sockett&Bones

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@Epaulet
Hi

I am having some serious issues with customer service communication:

Requested return 7/17, heard nothing and sent a follow up email on 7/22

Received reply 7/24, asking if I just wanted to remake in a different size. I replied the same day declining the offer

No reply, so follow up emails sent on 7/27 and 7/31

Still no reply at the time of this posting 8/6

I have went ahead and sent back the garment in order to seek a credit charge back if this is not resolved.

Thanks
 

Epaulet

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@Epaulet
Hi

I am having some serious issues with customer service communication:

Requested return 7/17, heard nothing and sent a follow up email on 7/22

Received reply 7/24, asking if I just wanted to remake in a different size. I replied the same day declining the offer

No reply, so follow up emails sent on 7/27 and 7/31

Still no reply at the time of this posting 8/6

I have went ahead and sent back the garment in order to seek a credit charge back if this is not resolved.

Thanks
Hey there,

My apologies, I'm on my own this month for emails and just got back from traveling. I'll be happy to follow up, but I can't match your SF username to a customer name or order number.

Feel free to send me a DM through here if you want to use Styleforum. I just need some details to look up your order and issue.

Alternately, the chat function of the website is a great way to contact me. The messages go straight to my phone and I can answer in real time.

Thanks!
 

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