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applky

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That's right. I could have been more specific. Not the box pleat top center (though that does finally explain the ease with which I can throw around hulk poses:)). Instead I mean the darting in the lower back, in the general vicinity of the kidneys. This is different for me. I'm interested to give it a try. You hardly even see it in the plaid pattern of the madras. A little more noticeable on the chambray.
And this is standard on Epaulet shirts? Dress and causal alike?

Darting in the lower back is standard on Epaulet shirts -- all of them, I believe -- and Ashland shirts as well. It cleans up any bunching or billowing in the lower back and makes the line much nicer from the top to the bottom. It also generally slims a shirt without making it tighter. See this Sartorialist post for more on that: http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/the-italian-fit-try-a-back-dart/
 

ibitegirls

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Rivet Chino Gunmetal

just ordered a pair (size 32)

my first purchase from epaulet, im sure it will live up to the hype and last many many years

bigstar[1].gif
 
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Epaulet

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hey mike, any chance of restocks on the Wellers anytime soon? I'm looking for a 40R and ideally before my friend's wedding in late April!


We've got a new weller en-route in Super 120's Navy. That's going to match the Walt trouser that we have now and the Rudy trouser that we'll get in about 3 weeks. I'll probably run off a small amount of waistcoats as well, so that customers can get an entire 3-piece suit.

The current Wellers in Super 120's Midnight and Super 120's Medium Grey won't be restocked, but I have some fabric on hand, and we can easily cut a special order jacket for you. It costs $50 more and takes about 4-6 weeks. It's an easy process and we've done a ton of custom orders so far. Drop me a line if you're interested.

oooh Plum sounds like an insta-cop. Waiting on that khaki canvas rivet restock Mike!


Awesome! All of this is confirmed and en-route in about 3 weeks! We'll have monthly chino drops after that through June or July. There's going to be a freaking ton of chinos around here!


Just received my shirts (madras and spearmint chambray). First things, both great fabrics. Very lightweight, which should be perfect for the hot weather wear for which I got them. And the spearmint color is outstanding. If you are on the fence, it's even nicer in person that you might imagine.
Now, sizing. Ordered the large. My shirt size has generally been 15.5/34, so I thought L ought to work. And it does. The fit right out of the box is great. However, this leads me to wonder how much they will shrink with washing and drying. I guess I'll wash and dry one of them and see how it goes. Live and learn, right?


Thanks for picking them up! Shrinkage is generally pretty minimal with the fabrics we select, but it's always a good policy to cold wash and hang dry them. I'd suggest keeping them out of the dryer altogether.

Is the critter shark tie going to be up anytime soon?

Yup, should be this week. We've got a critter seahorse tie too which is seriously tight.

Was just in the Orchard Street shop the other day to pick up some trousers and just have to say what a great operation Epaulet is. There's no snobbishness, just a genuine love of clothes and shoes. I really want a pair of the Camina monkstraps now though, and normally I don't even like monks...

Thank you sir!

Snagged the Caramel Duck in 36, would've liked to get something in a traditional smooth Khaki but can wait for it.
Will there be a non-canvas khaki that's coming up, more like the Japanese khakis? (only available in 34 now).
I fit the 35 Smith Denim pretty well, any plans to offer 35 waist?
It's very odd - I wear the Walts in 36 so my thighs fit, but have to take the waist in ~1.5". I wear a 35 in the Smith denim, but could probably wear a 34 since they stretch a bit. I wear a Rivet chino in 36 but it's a little loose in the waist. The 34 is likely too tight in the waist. This new batch might be perfect since the waist is alterable. I really need to come visit to get the right sizing on the Rivets and Carmina... :devil:


Yup, we'll definitely offer some flat fabrics, although I don't have anything pending delivery in the next 8 weeks. But I'd suggest picking up the khaki canvas. It's a pretty subtle texture and it has a phenomenal hand. The fabric has a lot of personality and it will be softer and a bit lighter than the Caramel that you have en-route.

In terms of sizing, we don't have a 35 in the matrix but go for the 36 and you can have the waist taken in to a perfect fit. The split waistband will make for really easy alterations.

Mike, no filming tomorrow but I will be stopping into the NYC store...hopefully you are around so I can say hi!  Also going to try on some items...need to experience the fervor that you have created!

Oh cool! I won't be there but my wife Adele will be. She can definitely take you through the line.

FairIsle shirt and Gunmetal Rivets:

The Rivet Chino has a fit on you that's unreasonably good. Fo' real.

If I wanted a lightweight slim cut chino which one would I choose?

Check out the Gunmetal Chino and the Walt in Cramerton cloth. The fits are a bit different, but they're our best-selling cotton trousers.

Been the story of my winter...depressing as ****.

You and me both. But I sure as hell can't jog from Bay Ridge to the LES. You're gonna zap that weight out brah!

I have just noted the pleating in the body on the back of my new shirts. Interesting. Don't have any other shirts similarly constructed. Is this the way all Epauet shirts are made?

Yup, every single Epaulet shirt has these and our Ashland/Gitman Brothers shirting does as well. Keeps the shirt slim against your lower back and gives you a really clean shape if you wear it untucked.

Just hopped on a pair if the Fitzgeralds in calf. I'll need to check out the caramel duck canvas in person when I go pick them up, the color looks amazing but I'm not enough of a color ninja to know if they will work for me without seeing them in person in daylight.

Thank you sir! You're going to love these shoes. We've got some Austerity Brogues in work for you too, right?

Any way to get a sneak preview of the plum color??

Absolutely...

This is going to make up really ace.

I hate to mention it...but don't we have to retire the term "Rivet" chino?

Haha, I probably should. But I paid too much to trademark it. It's a recognizable name so we're going to keep it for the items.

And actually, in the industry, those metal buttons are called "Tack Buttons." It was technically incorrect for me to call them "riveted buttons." So, the Rivet Chino never really had a rivet in it. It sure is a catchy name though! I guess that's fitting for a store named Epaulet that doesn't offer a single item with epaulets - at least this season.

took my caine blazer to the tailor today. he said it shouldn't be a problem to fix up. and he kept saying over and over how nice a jacket it was. I wonder if i get another epaulet blazer i should go with the 40. also Mike, is there any way on the special orders to get the sleeves in just the long length, but the body in the extra long? The tailor is taking the sleeves up a bit, so if i could customize it like that it could be helpful.


Ah, that's great news, I'm really glad to hear it. It's going to be spot-on after the alterations. Enjoy it!

And for a future order, we can absolutely:
1. Order in odd sizes too. You can order it in a 39, which looks like the correct size given where the 38 was tight on you
2. Order it with a mixture of lengths. We can easily do a long body and an extra long sleeve. We often do short bodies and regular sleeves for guys who want the jacket to look more cropped. It's no problem at all.

Darting in the lower back is standard on Epaulet shirts -- all of them, I believe -- and Ashland shirts as well. It cleans up any bunching or billowing in the lower back and makes the line much nicer from the top to the bottom. It also generally slims a shirt without making it tighter. See this Sartorialist post for more on that: http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/the-italian-fit-try-a-back-dart/

Whoa, that's a great link - thanks for posting that.

Lower back darts are really effective for slim fit shirts. They give you a nice v-taper from the waist and eliminate that puffy lower back that often happens.
 

Superfluous

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Did mine ship out? I didn't get a response about the sizing and you mentioned that you packed them up yesterday to ship out today.
 

applky

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Whoa, that's a great link - thanks for posting that.
Lower back darts are really effective for slim fit shirts. They give you a nice v-taper from the waist and eliminate that puffy lower back that often happens.

No problem. I am an enthusiast of darts. More points of contact on the back allow any shirt to rest much better on the body. Works well as you say!
 
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laughter95

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Hey, I messaged Matt to invoice me on a pair of blue chinos. Need some sizing advice, I wear Pure Blue Japan xx007s in size 31. I'm a size 31 waist. I wear size 32 in Walt and get the waist taken in. Should I purchase a pair of chinos in 31?

I kind of have a hunch on size 31.

Please invoice me at your earliest convenience.
 

Epaulet

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Hey, I messaged Matt to invoice me on a pair of blue chinos. Need some sizing advice, I wear Pure Blue Japan xx007s in size 31. I'm a size 31 waist. I wear size 32 in Walt and get the waist taken in. Should I purchase a pair of chinos in 31?
I kind of have a hunch on size 31.
Please invoice me at your earliest convenience.


Ah, thanks to everyone who PM'd Matt on the French Blue Chinos. We're going to be in full-on packing mode tomorrow, but we'll be in touch later in the week to confirm everything.

And for your sizing question, I'd definitely recommend the 31 Rivet chino. I think that's going to fit spot on. And with the new construction, it's easy to let out if it ends up a little tight, but I don't think that it will be. Thanks!
 

NewYorkIslander

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Just hopped on a pair if the Fitzgeralds in calf. I'll need to check out the caramel duck canvas in person when I go pick them up, the color looks amazing but I'm not enough of a color ninja to know if they will work for me without seeing them in person in daylight.


Imma be wearing mine today with the new LS Natty Chromexcel Self Edge Collab (and the natty chrmx belt) and a grey Buzz Rix sweater over white OCBD). The color is great and Mike's description of it as a rich Carhart brown is pretty accurate.
 

munich1204

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The button-down collar madras shirt looks great! I'm really excited to try it out, but I'm worried a size small will be slightly too large. Do you have any plans for adding XS to the inventory?
 

FrankCowperwood

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Darting in the lower back is standard on Epaulet shirts -- all of them, I believe -- and Ashland shirts as well. It cleans up any bunching or billowing in the lower back and makes the line much nicer from the top to the bottom. It also generally slims a shirt without making it tighter. See this Sartorialist post for more on that: http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/the-italian-fit-try-a-back-dart/



Well, if it's Italian, then it must be good. My MTO dress shirts are simply cut to follow my torso without darting, but this is clearly another way to go to get a similar effect. Definitely looking forward to wearing them and I'm going to take Mike's advice to wash cold and hang to dry. Given the weight of the fabrics, they should dry in no time. Thanks for all the replies.
 

unclesam099

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...
Yup, we'll definitely offer some flat fabrics, although I don't have anything pending delivery in the next 8 weeks. But I'd suggest picking up the khaki canvas. It's a pretty subtle texture and it has a phenomenal hand. The fabric has a lot of personality and it will be softer and a bit lighter than the Caramel that you have en-route.
In terms of sizing, we don't have a 35 in the matrix but go for the 36 and you can have the waist taken in to a perfect fit. The split waistband will make for really easy alterations.
...


Thanks for the suggestion - I already have the khaki canvas :) They are definitely great and are my go-to pants when not wearing my Smith denim :D I'd considered a pair of Cramertons, but I do have a bunch of cotton trousers already. Linen may be one of my next pickups.

It's true, alterations on Walts with the split waistband is very easy, I can knock a pair out in an hour or so, probably less now that I have the hang of it. I will see if I need to give these new caramel canvas a shot.

I'm mostly wondering, though if my thighs will fit if get a 34 in the chinos. I don't fit the 34 Walts, so I size up and bring the waist in 1.5". The thigh on the 34 Rivet matches that of the 36 Walt... Maybe I'll place an order and give it a shot.
 

spacepope

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It's a longshot but would one be able to order the Caramel Ducks with a longer inseam? Or is 35.5" the set length?
 

Epaulet

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Imma be wearing mine today with the new LS Natty Chromexcel Self Edge Collab (and the natty chrmx belt) and a grey Buzz Rix sweater over white OCBD). The color is great and Mike's description of it as a rich Carhart brown is pretty accurate.


I know that this has been said before, but I wish that my teachers dressed like you back in the day!

Although that said, since I went to Chaminade (a Catholic all-boys HS), all of my religious teachers pretty much dressed exclusively like the Blues Brothers.

The button-down collar madras shirt looks great! I'm really excited to try it out, but I'm worried a size small will be slightly too large. Do you have any plans for adding XS to the inventory?


We're not stocking XS in that, but you can certainly special order one. PM Matt at leftofthedial for more info.

Also, any plans on back-filling size M of the madras shirt?


Yes, we've got a restock of all sizes coming in the next 3-4 weeks.

Just kopped a Dreamy Solid Lilac Gant oxford; can't wait!


Thank you! I think that you're really going to dig this shirt. This season's Gant Rugger shirts have the best fit that I've seen from them.

It's a longshot but would one be able to order the Caramel Ducks with a longer inseam? Or is 35.5" the set length?


Oh, actually the new inseam is a full 36" if that helps. We put up the new Chinos with a quickness, so I still have to revise the sizing chart to reflect that. The waist measurement is also a half inch smaller, but as we detailed, the fit is pretty much identical to the original model because the new waistband is curved.
 

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