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Bertel

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What accounts for the extremely slim looking soles? They almost look like slippers in the first pic...quite interesting.

Exactly, these are Blake construction, indeed very slim and light, Bonafè calls them 'Fondo Chiuso'. For these types of shoes I like these much better than the otherwise quite bulky, protruding welts that Bonafè imho often have, it's exactly this slim and sleek style here that appeals to me.
 
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Leaves

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The sole edge on hand welted Bonafè shoes has never bothered me, on the contrary, I like it and is characteristic for Bonafè. For people who prefer the super slim look you can ask for Blake Rapid. These are about 20% less expensive than hand welted shoes as well and if you guys have not tried this construction out I'd recommend it - mostly for dress shoes and loafers though.
 

Dieg0

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HW is goodyear but (in EB's case, partially) handmade^^.
Soling of welt to insole is handmade, welt to outsole machine made. Otherwise EG, GG, C&J, carmina, Weston etc. all do both operations by machine. EB's is partially hand welted, Vass totally hand welted, and saint crispin partially like EB. With all those brands quality is good, so I think there is no difference in the possibility to resole the shoes several times.
 

Bertel

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For people who prefer the super slim look you can ask for Blake Rapid. These are about 20% less expensive than hand welted shoes as well and if you guys have not tried this construction out I'd recommend it - mostly for dress shoes and loafers though.
Exactly, thanks Leaves! I know of only very few artisans who nowadays do such a super slim Blake Rapid constructions as well as Bonafè do. It's just a personal preference I guess, but I like that sleek look on fabulous dress shoe designs like this one a great lot :)
 
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Zapasman

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HW is goodyear but (in EB's case, partially) handmade^^.
Soling of welt to insole is handmade, welt to outsole machine made. Otherwise EG, GG, C&J, carmina, Weston etc. all do both operations by machine. EB's is partially hand welted, Vass totally hand welted, and saint crispin partially like EB. With all those brands quality is good, so I think there is no difference in the possibility to resole the shoes several times.
Watch out Dieg0:

HW is not GYW.
Unfortunately, Handmade Shoes means nothing nowadays for most brands (specially GYW brands).
Weston uses in some models original GYW or " a la Weston" (differs from EG/GG/Carmina....)
Yes, Vass is the only one you mention here that hand stiches the outsole.
EB is not partially HW. It is just HW.
Vass is just HW, hand lasted and hand stiched outsole.
SC is just HW (not partially), hand lasted and machine stiched outsole
There are differences between HW and GYW for several resoles.

But yes, quality is good in all those brands.

Hope to clarify possible confusion.
 

Dieg0

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Watch out Dieg0:

HW is not GYW. 
Unfortunately, Handmade Shoes means nothing nowadays for most brands (specially GYW brands).
Weston uses in some models original GYW or " a la Weston" (differs from EG/GG/Carmina....)
Yes, Vass is the only one you mention here that hand stiches the outsole.
EB is not partially HW. It is just HW.
Vass is just HW, hand lasted and hand stiched outsole.
SC is just HW (not partially), hand lasted and machine stiched outsole
There are differences between HW and GYW for several resoles.

But yes, quality is good in all those brands.

Hope to clarify possible confusion.


I was wrong with my definition of HW. That is clear. Now Weston does it GYW th way bespoke shoemakers do it but at Weston machines are used. Last time I spoke to a bespoke shoemaker in Paris West on does it on all of its models. Unfortunately we ton also does Blake and a time ev not worse
I am not sure as to the superiority of HW not sure this allows for more resoles. Depends on quality of material and workers qualifications.
 

borbor

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gonna give these boots a workout before the snow hits.
the more i wear em, the more i like em. I still like the 804 over the 946 but the lama shaft was definitely the right call.

Seriously debating a second pair now.

 

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