english shoes quality heirachy

[wurger]

All English shoes polishing session.

John Lobb, Alfred Sargent, Edward Green, Anthony Cleverley

 

[TN001]

it depends on what you’re looking for. From a ready to wear standpoint, EG will usually offer a more varied colors and materials. Both will offer made to order.

Neither are really an e-commerce company. if you see a C&J shoe you like but want to know if it’s offered in a different color, it’s worth asking. I think, however, that C&J’s website will show you all of their offerings for the season, it doesn’t mean they have that particular model in stock on your size.

Edward Green’s online store is basically the inventory that is available in their Jermyn Street shoppe. In their case, it’s worth reaching out to see if they have what you’re looking for if you don’t see it online.

As for value and quality, C&J makes an excellent shoe and in my opinion, the best value in English footwear. I have a number from each shoemaker and love them both. EG’s lasts are a bit more interesting.

In my opinion, if you’re looking for a basic color (brown, black, etc.), then go with Crockett & Jones. I’ve never done C&J made to order but I have from EG, and it’s that route wherein the latter really becomes interesting.

The above is sage advice that you seldom read or hear. If a C&J handgrade fits you well off the shelf (or in a limited custom makeup), it's a bargain for a superb shoe that is tough to argue against. EG becomes a standout option when you're doing a true MTO, or if a particular finish really speaks to you.

 

[DrewMill]

Edward Green
C&J Handgrade
Trickers
Grenson Rose
Barker Hand-crafted
C&J Benchgrade
Cheaney Signature
Church
Cheaney (most)
Alfred Sargent Premier
Barker non-hand-crafted calf
Loake 1880
Alfred Sargent Classic
Sanders calf
Sanders non-calf, Loake non-calf, Grenson Feathermaster, Barkers non-calf

I think that would be my running order.

I'm curious (because I have no experience further up your list than Cheaney), what makes you rank Trickers so high? I've always wondered hot much better than Cheaney they were.

 

[ManofKent]

I'm curious (because I have no experience further up your list than Cheaney), what makes you rank Trickers so high? I've always wondered hot much better than Cheaney they were.

In my limited experience construction quality seemed similar, but leather quality was better. Softer, thicker and creasing was better.

 

[DrewMill]

In my limited experience construction quality seemed similar, but leather quality was better. Softer, thicker and creasing was better.

Thanks!

 

[TN001]

I love Trickers, but I would not put them above C&J Benchgrade. I think those two are generally seen as equivalent by the trades and the entities themselves (model dependent naturally).

I remember a few years ago, going back and forth on Jermyn Street comparing between C&J, Trickers, Barker, and Grenson, brogued Chelsea boot models. I was very surprised by how much better the C&J model was in almost every way.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Crockett & Jones, in my opinion, occupy their own unique space in the English shoe continuum. Their boots are probably second only to EG but dollar for dollar likely a better value.

 

[Reiver]

I love Trickers, but I would not put them above C&J Benchgrade. I think those two are generally seen as equivalent by the trades and the entities themselves (model dependent naturally).

I remember a few years ago, going back and forth on Jermyn Street comparing between C&J, Trickers, Barker, and Grenson, brogued Chelsea boot models. I was very surprised by how much better the C&J model was in almost every way.

Totally agree, would probably put C&J benchgrade slightly ahead in my limited experience.

Not much in it though

 

[TN001]

Crockett & Jones, in my opinion, occupy their own unique space in the English shoe continuum. Their boots are probably second only to EG but dollar for dollar likely a better value.

That’s a great point, and something that hadn’t dawned on me until I wrote the comment above. C&J seems to really shine (at the Benchgrade level) when it comes to boots.

I bought my teenage son a pair of Tricker’s Stowe boots, and they are fantastic, purpose built, absolute hell for stout, but less refined than the equivalent C&J model.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

That’s a great point, and something that hadn’t dawned on me until I wrote the comment above. C&J seems to really shine (at the Benchgrade level) when it comes to boots.

I bought my teenage son a pair of Tricker’s Stowe boots, and they are fantastic, purpose built, absolute hell for stout, but less refined than the equivalent C&J model.

The nice thing about C&J is that their boots are built to take a beating but at the same time not look as though they do.

 

[TheChihuahua]

I recently picked up 2 pairs of Cheaney a and find them to be fantastic. I like them better than my TLB Mallorca, cobbler union, or Alden’s (not British brands but comparable to slightly higher price points).

out of the box they weren’t quite as impressive, sort of ho hum. Finishing is nothing special. But they have broken in so well and are such a sturdy everyday shoe.

the exact opposite of say cobbler union who’s finishing is fantastic and look amazing out of the box but after continued wear lose their luster.

i am starting to look at some Crockett and Jones and/or George Cleverly, or maybe I even wait a touch longer and go with Edward green. But I’m not sure what I would expect in terms of upgrade over Cheaney?

I was looking at Gaziano and Girling, but they seem like their selling point is more hand painted patina (which I have no interest in) and look a bit more refined/elegant, which appeals more to fancier social gatherings than a mere sturdy workmanlike business professional shoe.

appreciate any insight.

 

[TheChihuahua]

Don't know Alden, I'm afraid. From what I've seen I would guess that they would probably be around the Loake 1880 mark.

Alden is an American brand. Similar price point as Crockett and Jones mainline (US $600-700).

I have had a pair of Alden’s for 12 years and they have held up great. But I don’t know if they compare to the Northampton/British options. I like my Cheaneys better. And dare I say, I have a couple pairs of Allen Edmonds that are just as good as my Alden’s.

 

[Reiver]

Alden is an American brand. Similar price point as Crockett and Jones mainline (US $600-700).

I have had a pair of Alden’s for 12 years and they have held up great. But I don’t know if they compare to the Northampton/British options. I like my Cheaneys better. And dare I say, I have a couple pairs of Allen Edmonds that are just as good as my Alden’s.

I like the look of some Alden options although I live in the UK and they are hard to come by here and very expensive when available.

I have heard that they are generally not as well finished as the likes of C&J. I think stitching was mentioned as well as the use of a fibreboard heel stack rather than leather.

However Alden also seem to be renowned for being built to last and very comfortable so I think they are built to a decent standard.

I think in the UK Alden is hard to justify when we have C&J, Trickers, Alfred Sargent, Cheaney to mention a few, so readily available without large shipping and duty fees on top. However I still find myself tempted by an Indy boot etc.

 

[Reiver]

The nice thing about C&J is that their boots are built to take a beating but at the same time not look as though they do.

I would agree with that, owning both Trickers and C&J I would say the C&J look more refined and less sturdy however I don't think that is actually the case.

Actually that doesn't apply to my Snowdon in zug leather, they are probably my sturdiest boots of all, absolute tanks!

I love both companies though and think they have their own unique appeal.

 

[Reiver]

I recently picked up 2 pairs of Cheaney a and find them to be fantastic. I like them better than my TLB Mallorca, cobbler union, or Alden’s (not British brands but comparable to slightly higher price points).

out of the box they weren’t quite as impressive, sort of ho hum. Finishing is nothing special. But they have broken in so well and are such a sturdy everyday shoe.

the exact opposite of say cobbler union who’s finishing is fantastic and look amazing out of the box but after continued wear lose their luster.

i am starting to look at some Crockett and Jones and/or George Cleverly, or maybe I even wait a touch longer and go with Edward green. But I’m not sure what I would expect in terms of upgrade over Cheaney?

I was looking at Gaziano and Girling, but they seem like their selling point is more hand painted patina (which I have no interest in) and look a bit more refined/elegant, which appeals more to fancier social gatherings than a mere sturdy workmanlike business professional shoe.

appreciate any insight.

I think with Edward Green you pay a lot more for near flawless finishing and better quality of leather. They are also more selective of which bits of the hide they use and therefore make less pairs of shoes per hide than a lesser maker, which in turn obviously raises the cost.

It's diminishing returns the higher up the price range you go but I don't see the harm if you want to save and get a really special pair that should last you a very long time.