Edward Green Appreciation: Pictures, Info, and Where to Buy

[colton2e]

Question for the Wide Specialists:

I've been on a bit of a journey with EG sizing and lasts and would like to tap this group's feedback.

184 last in F (wide) width fits me great. I wear a 9UK/9.5 US.
202 last in E (standard) fitting also fits pretty good but I have it in 9.5 UK/10 US (a half size larger). I sort of think a 9UK in F width would work too but I haven't tried it.
82 last in E (standard) is snug for me but tolerable if I go to 9.5 UK.
606 last in E (standard) fitting is too snug for me, even when I go to the 9.5 UK instead of the 9 UK.

Question 1: The EG F lasts seem to be the best option for me. Which stockists tend to carry these sizes? I only see Borghini and Frans Boone tend to do this.

Question 2: Should I be considering any EG lasts in standard (E) width? Would the 64 last for example, be wide enough for me? Any thoughts on the 303 last?

Thank you!

Having just tried the 202 and 303 side by side my impression is that they are basically the same last except a marginal amount of added toe room on the medial side in 303 and a more bulbous toe shape. Most of the difference is at the very end of the last beyond where your toes would sit.

you should consider not just your foot width but the overall shape with last selection. Do you have a high or low arch? High or low volume? Are you wide throughout or do your feet splay at the forefoot(duck feet)? You only want width where you need it otherwise you might end up with facings overlapping or your heel swimming in a shoe that still cramps your toes.

 

[colton2e]

exactly, it seems that thus there is no big comfort advantage, but the shoes ruins more quickly. I understand an overall shift to casual shoes, but why then unlined on top of that?

Unlined is lighter and requires no break in. The more structure you add to a loafer the more it contributes to heel slip and requires you to “break in” the shoe to stop your feet from slipping out.
This often results in people going with too small of a size and ending up with discomfort

 

[ForwardPleats]

exactly, it seems that thus there is no big comfort advantage, but the shoes ruins more quickly. I understand an overall shift to casual shoes, but why then unlined on top of that?

Sadly, our current culture of instant gratification and disposability is also affecting the high-end shoemakers. The number of cemented shoes in Lobb's lineup makes one want to weep.

 

[ant922599]

My experience of lined vs unlined (specifically, suede Belgravias), is that I have seen no difference in longevity or loss of shape over time.

Sure, something like a Polperro is going to have even less structure and is cemented and will collapse more readily, but an unlined welted shoe shouldn't be materially less durable.

And the lightness of an unlined loafer is very welcome and can be a pleasant change from time to time.

 

[barutanseijin]

Unlined is lighter and requires no break in. The more structure you add to a loafer the more it contributes to heel slip and requires you to “break in” the shoe to stop your feet from slipping out.
This often results in people going with too small of a size and ending up with discomfort

Unlined is good for hot summer days. Besides, they’re loafers. Light and minimal is what you want. There are boots for walks in the country and sturdy shoes for pounding city pavement.

 

[ZRH1]

I admit to be a bit confused. Some reported that unlined EG loafers showed signs of collapsing structure after a few wears, others notice no difference. Any images of an older unlined pair here?

 

[Shawnc]

I admit to be a bit confused. Some reported that unlined EG loafers showed signs of collapsing structure after a few wears, others notice no difference. Any images of an older unlined pair here?

I have not read where anyone stated the structure collapsed after a few wears. Mine have lost some structure faster than my lined shoes but what you describe is definitely extreme compared to my experience.

 

[colton2e]

I have not read where anyone stated the structure collapsed after a few wears. Mine have lost some structure faster than my lined shoes but what you describe is definitely extreme compared to my experience.

This is what unlined loafers look like after just trying them on.

 

[ZRH1]

I have not read where anyone stated the structure collapsed after a few wears. Mine have lost some structure faster than my lined shoes but what you describe is definitely extreme compared to my experience.

I acknowledge that my choice of "collpasing" is too strong. As a source I mostly had comments on the Unlined Loafers post by Simon Crompton on PS.

I understand that the shoes definitely lose shape faster than their lined equivalent, which sadly reinforces my comment on why EG is going down this route.

 

[ant922599]

I admit to be a bit confused. Some reported that unlined EG loafers showed signs of collapsing structure after a few wears, others notice no difference. Any images of an older unlined pair here?

I think we've bottomed this one out already, but in case it helps further, here are a pair of Belgravias....

Brown are unlined
Black are lined

Both about 18m old, and if anything, I've worn the brown ones more.

For further context, I've added a pair of Baudoin & Lange sagans, which are truly unlined and cemented in construction.

These are at least 3.5 years old however.

Sure, they look quite flat here, but when they're full of foot they look exactly the same in terms of volume from the day they were bought 😆

 

[ZRH1]

thank you, much appreciated.

To be honest, I struggled to differenciate!

 

[shoefan57]

I think that unlined shoes are cooler to wear in hot weather which is why I have four such pairs. My EG unlined Harrow ( snuff suede and dk oak) are a pleasure to wear in warm summer weather. I've owned the suede pair for five years and the dk oak pair for two years and they are holding up well. I'm sure they would not last as long as lined shoes but then they don't get worn year round. Charging as much as a lined shoe is however a good way at increasing a profit margin!

 

[te0o]

My DOAK Belgravia had their second recraft. The back lining had started to go too so I asked them to patch that up as well. Good results as always. £440 for the resole and for stitching new back lining in, basically equivalent to a new pair of C&J.

They stripped the shoes of old polish which was useful.

And after some TLC, here they are back in the wild!

My loafer rotation is now a bit more extensive so hopefully these will last longer until the next recraft.

 

[BlueSteel]

My DOAK Belgravia had their second recraft. The back lining had started to go too so I asked them to patch that up as well. Good results as always. £540 for the resole and for stitching new back lining in, basically equivalent to a new pair of C&J.

They stripped the shoes of old polish which was useful.
View attachment 2192279
View attachment 2192281
View attachment 2192283

And after some TLC, here they are back in the wild!
View attachment 2192285

My loafer rotation is now a bit more extensive so hopefully these will last longer until the next recraft.

Very nice looking work, but hefty repair bill! I'm thinking a very skilled cobbler in my area might do that work for 1/3 to 1/2 of that price.

Of course none of those fellows are named Edward Green (not that your workman was either)...lol.

 

[CLH03]

My DOAK Belgravia had their second recraft. The back lining had started to go too so I asked them to patch that up as well. Good results as always. £540 for the resole and for stitching new back lining in, basically equivalent to a new pair of C&J.

They stripped the shoes of old polish which was useful.
View attachment 2192279
View attachment 2192281
View attachment 2192283

And after some TLC, here they are back in the wild!
View attachment 2192285

My loafer rotation is now a bit more extensive so hopefully these will last longer until the next recraft.

How long have you owned them?