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Details on fabric used for Gloverall duffle coats?


New Member
Jan 9, 2023
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Hi guys,

This may be too geeky, but I'm obsessed about finding out the details of the fabric used in the Gloverall duffle coats.

I'm a big fan of duffle coats for the classic all-time appeal, straight neutral silhouette, and just overall great look. And I've spent enough time on the internet and this forum to zone in on Gloverall. I bought a rust color Original Monty in early 2020 ($645 back then):

I just fell in love with this color - it's not too bright, eyes-burning red, nor too bland and dark. Just the right color that stands out but is pleasing to the eye (at least mine).

When I first got the coat, the feel of the material was so new and astounding, and basically an explosion of wonderful tactile and sensory experiences. I had never before had any coat that was made of such a thick spongy coarse but enjoyable wool fabric. (well, I never had a wool coat to begin with -- this was my first wool coat, and I had been searching for years to even find out the name "duffle coat", ever since I first happened to come across the elegant knee-length wool coat with those unique unforgettable toggles.)

This is what got me so bothered about trying to learn about the fabric of these duffle coats. Unfortunately, there isn't much info out there. There are some short articles that talk about the history of the duffle coat in very general terms, and mention early fabrics like "duffel", "loden", "melton" etc. I don't think I have access to a brick-and-mortar store where I might familiarize myself with these different fabrics.

In particular, I was curious about the fabric that Gloverall uses for their Original Monty duffel coat. I've seen some numbers thrown around, like "34oz fabric weight" in regards to fabric weight of duffle coats. I don't have a way to visualize it nor do I have the tactile/sensory reference point to gauge it. But still I would like to know.

People say the vintage coats are heavier and thicker. Are there any catalogs or comparisons to say if the thickness has kept going down over the years? I got mine in 2020, and it is a 85% wool/15% polyamide blend. Is there any way to find out what fabric it is, and what is the weight, and how to gauge the relative quality of it. Where would I be able to get some of this fabric?

Sorry if my post is a bit off topic for this forum.
Jan 28, 2023
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  • The Gloverall Duffle coat I bought in the Fall of 1970 for my freshman year at university is still going strong. Im 71 and wearing it today. Mine has the leather thongs and horn toggles, it's also 85/15.. I would call call the guys at O'Connells in Buffalo,NY, tele: 1-800-0076. They are very helpfull and worth a try. Good luck.

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