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Cowboy boots

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mram65, Mar 6, 2002.

  1. Patrick R

    Patrick R Distinguished Member

    Likes Received:
    Sep 29, 2011
    Chicago, IL
    I’ve been looking at the Jonah. It’s probably my next pair of boots.

    The one point in DWF’s post I’ll agree with is the authenticity issue. Many me have a hard time pulling off western boots and not looking like a try hard.

  2. Sartoriamo

    Sartoriamo Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Nov 29, 2010
    In a parallel universe
    Hey all,

    I just found this thread, and have skimmed through some of it. It's interesting to see everyone's opinions, and I'll add my perspective when I get a chance. I did note right away some requests to see the types of western boots that are more suited to "non-cowboy" wear. So I wanted to show you this recent consignment find: a simply stunning pair of handmade western dress boots from Paul Bond's workshop in Nogales. These are bench made, understated, and just as rich and sumptuous as anything from the top-line shoe workshops, IMHO.

    4911 - 1.jpg 4911 - 14.jpg
    Just as in dress footwear, it's always best to have your boots made bespoke, if you can afford it (I can't, so I hunt for pre-owned ones). So you could have the same pair with a lower heel that's less underslung for a daily use boot, although I'd happily wear these with a suit (disclosure: I'm in rural AZ). Bootmakers cantilever the heel progressively the taller it becomes, so cowboys can walk like John Wayne instead of Herman Munster. If you don't need the heel, a walking heel with a shorter vertical rear can be spec'd. I have a gorgeous pair from David Espinoza in Phoenix that I found at a consignment store, bison skin with a walking heel and they're amongst the most comfortable footwear I own. I'll rejoin the conversation once I've read the whole thread.
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019

  3. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Distinguished Member

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    Nov 12, 2006
    Very nice! Always love the clean look of the Rios. Wear them in good health my friend, and count down the days until your next pair, because you know there will be a next pair very soon!!

  4. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Distinguished Member

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    May 23, 2011
    The Second City
    @Sartoriamo those are beautiful boots. What a find! Nice to know some good names to look out for should I be so lucky.

    One thing I like about what I’m seeing among western boots is that there seem to be lots of makers who offer a variety of heel and toe shapes MTO and various leather combinations. Not full bespoke of course, but very reasonaly prices MTO.

    @troika you could have a look at https://cartersboots.com/ They have some ropers stock in various sizes. I have a pair of their house brand boots. Quality seems good. Finish is almost certainly below Lucchese.

    @gnatty8 these Rios are really comfortable right away. Solved the snugness by putting slimmer insoles in. Definitely a gateway pair. :)

  5. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    Jul 24, 2009
    Gnatty8's Rios make me want to buy my first cowboy boots in over 10 years. Blame it all on my roots.

  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Likes Received:
    Jan 8, 2008
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    Seems to me that the reason this thread gets so little traffic is that among manufacturers (and even bespoke makers)...at every price point...there is no applicable aesthetic. And very little impulse to find one.

    The same can be said for a great many people that purchase and wear cowboy boots--the average consumer, IOW..

    People who admire high end men's shoes don't apply the same criteria or standards of quality to boots. People who would stand aghast at mismatched seams on a man's shoe, blithely extol the virtues, and tout the refinement, of boots that have blatantly mismatched seams--such as where the quarters meet; or side welts that are awkwardly warped off straight and towards the rear of the boot. And these are just a few of the examples...all common enough that they've become almost acceptable.

    There are lots of these 'sins' that people accept; common mistakes that when compounded over and over again on a pair of boots or even within a brand, add up to ugly. And inauthentic. But which so colour our perceptions that, in the eye of the average consumer boots are regarded, at best, as 'common.'

    Thing is that almost without exception the problems arise from a a misunderstanding of the last or the foot; poor patterning; or simply inattention or indifference. Not from the form or the possibilities inherent in the form.

    If the consumer doesn't demand better, they get what they deserve. But in the long run, it almost certainly will only get worse.

    Here are a few of the more egregious mistakes which are commonplace on virtually all commercially made (and even some bespoke) boots (please excuse these rough sketches):

    crooked_sideseam.png broken_quarter.png

    mismatched_seams.png mismatched_stitching.png

    sole_line.png undercut_heel.png
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019 at 4:50 AM

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