Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[Quesjac]

Hi, two quick questions:

1. Generally speaking, are cashmere jackets warmer than other wools, or does it just seem that way because my cashmere jackets are mostly tweeds and my worsted jackets mostly not cashmere?
2. Is there a general phenomenon of suits of the same size being produced to smaller dimensions over time? I have a 38 in old label Zegna that fits close to my newer 40 Zegna, and recently got a new (grey label with year) Canali in a 40, whereas in older Canali I've always found the 38 a better fit. Is this just coincidence, or have sizes drifted over time?

 

[12345Michael54321]



Generally speaking, are cashmere jackets warmer than other wools

Probably not inherently so, although I've no problem believing that your cashmere jackets happen to be warmer than your non-cashmeres.

FWIW, my silk/linen/cashmere (equal percentages of each) blazer is the coolest blazer I own. And I don't find my cashmere sweaters to be any warmer than my merino sweaters.

I guess what it comes down to is, cashmere (like most wools) can be used to create an uncommonly warm garment, but it needn't be used that way, and often is not used that way.

Is there a general phenomenon of suits of the same size being produced to smaller dimensions over time?

Vanity sizing - which is certainly an actual practice - suggests just the opposite. That today's size 38 would fit like yesteryear's size 40, and not the other way around.

But this sort of thing really varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

have sizes drifted over time?

They have. And the fit/cut of suits have changed too, which can sometimes make it tricky comparing what once was, with what now is. But in any case, the drift has not been a uniform thing, across all makes of clothing. Some have gone smaller. Some larger. Some have varied in other ways.

Seems only fair, as my own body size/shape has drifted a little over time.

Anyway, what does the number on the label matter? If a jacket fits me well, then it fits me well. If it doesn't, it doesn't. If it's marked size 32, size 56, size 624.73, or whatever, what difference does that truly make? The "official" size should seldom be much more than a general guide, as to where you might care to start trying on RTW items for fit. It has little actual significance beyond that.

 

[tchaikovsky]

Hi guys, just wanted to follow up to my last post. I was looking for some suits in some great neutral colors. Well now, after $200, I am the proud owner of a BB golden fleece suit in gray, which I (think) fits me fairly well. I will get some quick tailoring done on it soon. My question now is- How do I take care of this suit? I have a wooden curvy hangar and a garment bag, and that's it. Should I store it a certain way? In a certain environment?

Also, I bought some AE Strands too-- any idea how to take the best possible care of those, too? The inside of the shoe says:

9 D 1635
43520S

I plan on spending $200 on fitting my suit / buying things needed to take care of it and the shoes.

Please forgive my ignorance, as these are the first "nice clothes" I've owned.

 

[b14k]

Hello!

I would appreciate any advice on whether to keep or return this suit. This is the smallest size they offered and the shoulders are a little too big, exactly 1/8 inch too wide. The tailor said it would cost me $60 to narrow the shoulders, but recommended it looks fine and it wouldn't be worth it. The tailor only recommended I hem the pants to a "slight break."

Do you guys think this the look okay to keep and alter the rest, despite the shoulders being a little too wide? If so, what else would you suggest getting altered on the suit?
This is my first suit and it will be primary used while I am in law school, so I am not looking for something too fashion forward, but at the same time I don't want something too conservative. Is the overall proportion okay or should I look to slim the sleeves, pants, and chest down further? Thank You!

 

[Isolation]

Looks fine to me.

 

[IJReilly]

The good news: I lost over 20lbs/10kgs this spring! My wife says I look better than the day she met me.

The bad news: My shirt collars are now far to big to wear buttoned with ties. I've lost about 5 centimeters in the neck. This is saddening because I have quite a few pricey and very nice made to measure shirts from various italian makers.

I've lost far to much weight to just move the button a centimeter. Are there any other options if I don't want to look like a school boy who borrowed my father's shirt? My guess is no, but there is no harm in asking. Worst case scenario I guess I will wear them open and keep them as back ups in case I gain back the weight I lost.

 

[hindi ako]

Described as a 3 button blazer, does this look more like an overcoat of some variety?

 

[cakv]

Gentlemen, I'm new to tall boots. Is it normal for the shaft to be so roomy? Please notice how tightly I lace my boots up top. Despite being laced tightly, I can insert 2 fingers into the shoe through the opening behind my calf.

The boot fits fine in the vamp, toes, and quarter. It's just the shaft that I'm questioning. Please ignore quality of boots(<$400)

 

[cakv]

This is the smallest size they offered and the shoulders are a little too big, exactly 1/8 inch too wide. The tailor said it would cost me $60 to narrow the shoulders, but recommended it looks fine and it wouldn't be worth it.

Do you guys think this the look okay to keep and alter the rest, despite the shoulders being a little too wide? If so, what else would you suggest getting altered on the suit?

I'm with Isolation on this one. I even think that the shoulders are a tad small for you. Notice how you can see the curvature of your delt/upper arm. I don't believe that should happen in a great fitting suit. If you look at a lot of the fit pictures, the shoulder extends far enough over the shoulder so that the sleeve hangs nicely in such a way that there is a smooth line from the sleeve head to the hem of the sleeve.

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

Gentlemen, I'm new to tall boots. Is it normal for the shaft to be so roomy? Please notice how tightly I lace my boots up top. Despite being laced tightly, I can insert 2 fingers into the shoe through the opening behind my calf.

The boot fits fine in the vamp, toes, and quarter. It's just the shaft that I'm questioning. Please ignore quality of boots(<$400)

Great looking boots. I think they're fine as long as your feet aren't sliding around inside or you're experiencing heel slip.

 

[12345Michael54321]



[ATTACHMENT=13751]IMG_3971.JPG (2,036k. JPG file)[/ATTACHMENT]

Post pictures. Not links to pictures.

Sort of how you presumably want people to post their opinions with regard to your question. Not links to their opinions.

Is it normal for the shaft to be so roomy?

I'm going to channel my inner Social & Behavioral Scientist - "Rather than worrying about what is 'normal,' you'd be better off focusing on how it makes you feel. Are you comfortable with it as it is? Does it serve you well? If so, then it sounds like a good thing, worth keeping."

So, does the fit of the boot cause you physical or psychological discomfort? Does the boot serve well as a boot?

I dare say the boot's fit around your lower leg is more roomy than might be the case with most other boots/people. Maybe your boots are unusually large in that aspect. Maybe your lower leg is unusually slender. Maybe some combination of the two.

Not that this is likely, as a general thing, to be visible to anyone else. Still, if it bothers you, they're not the right boots for you. If it doesn't bother you, there's no problem.

 

[12345Michael54321]



Described as a 3 button blazer, does this look more like an overcoat of some variety?

Yeah, I'd say it resembles an overcoat, more than it does a traditional blazer. Admittedly, I can't see it in person, examine the material, look at the lining, check out its weight, etc. Heck, I haven't even seen a photo of it being worn. But it's the kind of picture where if I came across it on eBay, and the auction described it as a blazer, I'd be sort of inclined to think it was maybe being misidentified. (Most of the "blazers" on eBay are, of course, misidentified. But they're typically orphan suit jackets, not overcoats.) Rule of thumb - If you have to ask, "Is this a blazer?" chances are, it isn't.

 

[cakv]

Can a sole guard(topy or Vibram brand) be applied to these shoes in this condition?

 

[Satmoche]

Dear all,

I am looking for a blazer like this.
The ones sold by Drake's are - very - expensive but very good in terms of cut and quality - cloth wise.
I am looking to put £400 top and I have not found anything on Suit Supply, Boggi, Yoox.
Are there other websites that I should look into for that ? I tried eBay with Harris tweed but I have not found anything at all. I would ideally look for a shop in London so that I could try it on since sizes vary from a brand to another.

 

[blacktaro]



Dear all,

I am looking for a blazer like this.
The ones sold by Drake's are - very - expensive but very good in terms of cut and quality - cloth wise.
I am looking to put £400 top and I have not found anything on Suit Supply, Boggi, Yoox.
Are there other websites that I should look into for that ? I tried eBay with Harris tweed but I have not found anything at all. I would ideally look for a shop in London so that I could try it on since sizes vary from a brand to another.

First thing came to my mind regarding this style was Polo Ralph Lauren, but you will need to wait for sale season to get it down below £400.