Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[cxbxw]

I bought a new pair of leather shoes, and the tongue digs into the front of my ankle slightly when I walk, creating a minor amount of discomfort.

Is this something that will occur less as the shoe softens? Moreover, if not, can this be adjusted?

 

[cxbxw]

^Please answer quickly and efficiently, as I'm going to bed soon. Thanks.

 

[Master Milano]

What color shoes to wear with a gray suit? I was thinking of wearing a silver duckie by florshiem long wings... But that seems a bit overthetop. Black? light brown? Thanks!

and to the above, my shoes always soften with wear, it shouldn't bother you for long...

 

[TauKappaEpsilon]

I picked up my Daltons today but they fit badly. Unfortunately when I tried them on several weeks ago I was wearing significantly thinner socks and I ordered the size that felt good. Today I got a call that they came in, so not thinking, I went to get them straight from the beach (not wearing any socks). I tried them on with the "try on" socks AE gave me and they felt good. However, when I got home and put on real socks they were so tight it was painful (but only on my left foot). Should I exchange them for a bigger size, wearing thinner socks, or wait for a few days of wear and allow them to stretch? Thanks for the help SF.

 

[calcoast]

What color shoes to wear with a gray suit? I was thinking of wearing a silver duckie by florshiem long wings... But that seems a bit overthetop. Black? light brown? Thanks!
and to the above, my shoes always soften with wear, it shouldn't bother you for long...

I would wear brown shoes with a grey suit. Black shoes would work fine, silver IMO is doing too much. These are just my opinions...

 

[New Shoes1]

I picked up my Daltons today but they fit badly. Unfortunately when I tried them on several weeks ago I was wearing significantly thinner socks and I ordered the size that felt good. Today I got a call that they came in, so not thinking, I went to get them straight from the beach (not wearing any socks). I tried them on with the "try on" socks AE gave me and they felt good. However, when I got home and put on real socks they were so tight it was painful (but only on my left foot). Should I exchange them for a bigger size, wearing thinner socks, or wait for a few days of wear and allow them to stretch? Thanks for the help SF.

Wear them around the house and walk around on carpet for a few days to see if they loosen up a little bit.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



So I was reading SF 101 and realized that most people actually use spread collars for use with suits. My face is pretty oval (I'm short though), would this be a bad mix? It's not going to be too bad and it'll have to make do anyways because I'm not planning to buy any more shirts for a few weeks anyways.

Also, does anyone know if there are cheap (~$300-400) MTM linen suit makers? I'm about 5' 5" and 125 pounds (35S suits). A lightweight suit isn't too essential for me so if all else fails, I'll get some BB or RL kids seersucker suits for ~$250. It'll probably fit okay.

Some people discuss how a collar should balance with ones face, but honestly I think a collar just needs balance in itself. Some degree of a spread collar will always look better than a point collar.

You are going to have a tough time finding a read to wear linen suit for $3-400 let alone MTM. Linen is a very expensive fabric even if the labor is cheap. I would look for used stuff.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



I bought a new pair of leather shoes, and the tongue digs into the front of my ankle slightly when I walk, creating a minor amount of discomfort.
Is this something that will occur less as the shoe softens? Moreover, if not, can this be adjusted?

It will most likely soften. New shoes frequently give me aches and pains that go away after a handful of wears.

^Please answer quickly and efficiently, as I'm going to bed soon. Thanks.

Sorry, didn't know when your bedtime was. Were you wearing your shoes to bed?

 

[hoth]

When buying a suit, are the measurements given the measurements of the fabric or what the man should be?

For example, a Benjamin 36R has the measurements of:

Chest: 39"
Shoulders: 17.15"
Sleeve length: 25.5"
Length from bottom of collar: 28.8"

I believe my measurements are:

Chest: 35.5"
Shoulders: 16"
Sleeve length: 24"

Does this mean the suit is too big for me?

 

[patrickBOOTH]



When buying a suit, are the measurements given the measurements of the fabric or what the man should be?
For example, a Benjamin 36R has the measurements of:
Chest: 39"
Shoulders: 17.15"
Sleeve length: 25.5"
Length from bottom of collar: 28.8"
I believe my measurements are:
Chest: 35.5"
Shoulders: 6"
Sleeve length: 24"
Does this mean the suit is too big for me?

Suits are measured by their chest in terms of labelled size, but measuring your chest and that of a suit and it being the same or close will never gaurantee a good fit. It is about proportion of fabric, where it is added, or lacks to come up with the measurement. These measurement guides online stores give are rough guidelines. However, 3.5" larger than your chest seems a bit big. Also, I dought your shoulders are 6" wide.

 

[hoth]

Thank you for the help!

Yes, I forgot the 1. My shoulders are 16" wide. So, it does seem the suit is a little big for me in all respects. Would a tailor be able to adjust all of those measurements?

Also, a 36S has the same measurements with the exception of:

Sleeve length: 24.5"
Length from bottom of collar: 28.4"

It sounds like that would be the better choice amusing a tailor fan help with the large chest.

If it helps, these are the two suits I am looking at:
http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-13035/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36R/Detail
http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-4853/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36S/Detail

(The only place that sells suits within 100 miles of me is MW, so I likely will have to purchase a suit online)

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Thank you for the help!
Yes, I forgot the 1. My shoulders are 16" wide. So, it does seem the suit is a little big for me in all respects. Would a tailor be able to adjust all of those measurements?
Also, a 36S has the same measurements with the exception of:
Sleeve length: 24.5"
Length from bottom of collar: 28.4"
It sounds like that would be the better choice amusing a tailor fan help with the large chest.
If it helps, these are the two suits I am looking at:
http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-13035/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36R/Detail
http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-4853/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--36S/Detail
(The only place that sells suits within 100 miles of me is MW, so I likely will have to purchase a suit online)

Chests can only be altered with desireable results of about an inch or so. It might be ok, but I don't know. Best case try on some models in person somewhere and then buy online. Move out of the sticks, boy!

It sounds like you are a small guy, so I would go with the short. But you would know better than me. How tall are you?

 

[hoth]

Yes, I live in a very casual beach town in central California. Once I get my BS, I'll likely move to a larger town, maybe Portland...

Anyways, back on topic.

I am 5' 11" 145lbs.

For a point of reference, here are two pictures of me. The first in a Benjamin 38R and the second in a J Crew Ludlow. I like the Ludlow's fit; however, it is cheap and made of cotton, not something I plan to keep.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

They both don't fit well at all. Look at all of the space around the collar. The gaping. Also the lapels look to be billowing out rather than falling straight down. I think you may have to try a different cut.

 

[D.B.Cooper]

Nasty collar gap on both.