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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. DjangoV

    DjangoV Well-Known Member

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    Quote:Although having cuffs on your trousers (or not) indeed is very much a matter of personal preference, I thought that cuffs were often considered to be a bit more formal (this is also the reason I asked). So the question should rather have been: What level of formality on a mid grey flannel pair of trousers would be considered more of a staple (cuffs, pleats, etc.) Guess I just answered my own question... no cuff would, if the above statement applies, be more versatile.
     
  2. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    I do not believe that is the case. Black tie and white tie trousers have no cuffs, while tweed trousers do. None of my trousers have cuffs because I'm vertically challenged and prefered a longer uninterrupted leg line, in the hope it makes me appear "taller".
     
  3. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    What he said :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  4. Bungle

    Bungle Member

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    If I was to wear a grey or charcoal suit with a white or pale blue shirt and with a chocolate brown tie, would black shoes be ok or should I get a pair of brown shoes?

    What PS would go well with the suit/shirt/tie combo? I already have a white linen, medium blue gingham, lavender gingham and a pale blue glenplaid.

    Thank you in advance!
     
  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Charcoal/grey suits are very versatile. You can go conservative/formal or more relaxed casual- which is why SF members suggest grey as a good first or second suit color.

    I would suggest that you focus on keeping the shirt, tie and PS in the same level of formality.

    -If you need to dress conservative, go with the white shirt and linen PS with the black shoes.
    -If you want a more casual look go with the pale blue shirt and gingham PS and use brown shoes.

    Some folks would say that a white shirt is to be avoided because it is too formal, but if formal is what you need then I think it's fine.

    Not sure about the tie- too many variables to give any ideas.

    Just one man's thoughts- see what the other members suggest and give it a shot.
     
  6. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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  7. DjangoV

    DjangoV Well-Known Member

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    Quote:I don't have any trousers with cuffs. Might have to look into it, since I am 6'1". I'll try some soon and see what I think of it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  8. Bungle

    Bungle Member

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    The only suit I own now (that's worth wearing) is a pick and pick made of black and white threads, so it looks like a medium grey. I was planning on getting a new suit in the near future, most likely in a plain charcoal but possibly in a herringbone or glenplaid if I'm feeling adventurous at the time. Also, if it's of any importance the suit I have now has side tabs instead of belt loops. The next suit I get will be the same.

    I figured grey suit -> white shirt -> chocolate knitted tie, or charcoal suit -> pale blue shirt -> choc knit tie would both be safe bets, but I wasn't sure if black shoes would work with them. I don't have any brown shoes at the moment and was hoping to avoid buying some, although a couple of new pocket squares from thetiebar.com won't hurt the budget!


    Thanks for the advice!
     
  9. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    Does anyone know a decent alterations/repair shop for knits in London? Have a fair isle sweater with a small moth whole and a cashmere sweater that's too voluminous.
     
  10. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    Re: Cuffs

    I think it looks a lot nicer on patterned suits than solids - like a large scale PoW or something. Adds an extra touch.
     
  11. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    Cuffs are traditionally considered less formal and I agree they look best on patterned suits (and double breasted) and odd trousers, but I wear them on plain navy worsted as well just because I really like the look. I'm 6'0 but would wear them even if I was shorter, but maybe not have full 2 inch cuffs. Odd flannel trousers look fantastic with a good sized cuff IMO.
     
  12. MMoon24

    MMoon24 Senior member

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    How long has the short suit jacket been around? The type where it shows a bit of your butt? In America? In Europe? Thinking of getting one for fun/bar events.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  13. p.henrik

    p.henrik Senior member

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    Far too long (sorry couldn't help myself)
     
  14. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I would mostly agree, when it comes to suits. No cuffs is more formal, but I cannot envision any setting where it would actually change the appropriateness of that suit for an occasion. I cannot think of a navy blue suit becoming less appropriate for a wedding, because it has cuffs on its trousers, but next to someone in a similar suit without cuffs, you will look slightly less formal.

    Formal wear is different (though I realize the original question was about odd trousers) According to what I've read, there has never been a tradition of cuffs on evening formal trousers (Black or White Tie), as previously stated. There have, apparently, always been a handful of gentlemen that prefer cuffs on their morning trousers, and I think that, with a Morning Coat, they do noticeably affect the formality but, in my opinion, doesn't ruin it. It is a bit of lighter, more fun, way to wear trouser.

    On a pair of odd grey pants, I agree with the other posters that it comes down to personal preference. I'm 5'7" and, while I do not currently have any pants with cuffs, my height would not stop me. I might have to experiment with width, but I would probably start with a full 2" and see how it looks. I don't see the point in wearing them, if they look wimpy. And, I'm 5'7"; cuffs are not going to be the thing that makes me look short. The fact that I'm short will take care of that by itself.
     
  15. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  16. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Funny.

    I think you can also go with a smaller cuff to lessen the visual effect of shortening the leg- like a 1 5/8" cuff instead of 1 3/4. I know bigger cuffs are "in" but I think the sizes I mentioned are more traditional(?)

    In the case of odd gray wool pants I stand by my earlier comments, but in the case of suits I'd agree that cuffs may give a more "country" look to some, but I don't think it is a problem. I don't have cuffs on my blue suits, just on the tweed and heavy winter stuff , which I feel is more old-school....but again it's all about preference, not right v. wrong.

    Good topic though!
     
  17. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    @marcodalondra is in London, perhaps he might know?
     
  18. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Black shoes were traditionally the accepted color for blue and grey suits, but since the late 90's that has been relaxed and now brown shoes are much more common.

    I'd encourage you to look into a pair of brown shoes- Allen Edmonds has frequent sales and you can buy second- quality shoes with minor defects for around $160-$200 during their sales. If you are building your wardrobe this is a great place to start.
    Note- Be prepared to "zero in" on your correct size for each last and if buying seconds you may have to return a few duds. Shipping in the US is free both ways.
    __

    I was just researching side-tabs adjusters for a suit I recently commissioned. I fluctuate in weight 20lbs throughout the year so it gets annoying!
     
  19. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    If you like cuffs for the drape effect, go with reverse cuffs.
     
  20. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    My understanding here is that cuffs were essentially invented to be "mud flaps" to protect the outside of the trouser leg when getting off your horse on a dirt road. The whole idea of the dinner suit was to change out of your dirty day clothes, so you really wouldn't be riding somewhere in your dinner clothes, and wouldn't have need of cuffs.
     
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