ALLEN EDMONDS APPRECIATION THREAD 2021: News, pictures, clothing, accessories, etc.

[savvysartorial]

A bit chilly at 54 degrees this morning, but fortunately no snow for us.
Natty Sterling’s for a little tree top adventure!
View attachment 1559015
Green AE field jacket as well.
View attachment 1559017

Looks like a blast! Looking sharp, have fun!

 

[tcbinnc]

A bit chilly at 54 degrees this morning, but fortunately no snow for us.
Natty Sterling’s for a little tree top adventure!
View attachment 1559015
Green AE field jacket as well.
View attachment 1559017

Nice! Hmmm.. What does one wear to a Tree Adventure?? Why, Green on Green ... on Natural, Of course! Have Fun! ?

 

[jet-stream]

IMHO, 40 Over Fashion should not be espousing trends and styles that are meant for 20 and 30 year old's. While men over 40 should be stylish, the main point is to dress your age which by most classic style rules means "even more classic" the older you get. Watch a few of his videos and you will notice most of his wardrobe is what I would consider trendy, meant for younger men, often tacky, and overall not stylish (or classic). I do not think RMRS or any of the "menfluential" people are any better especially when it comes to style for men over 40.

Style is individual and personal so what I might consider "tacky" others might consider "stylish" and what I might consider "classic" others might find "fuddy duddy" (to use a term that was brought up here recently).

I am over 40 and tend to follow people such as Alan Flusser, Ralph Lauren, Simon Crompton - Permanent Style, and Bernhard Roetzel who are about classic men's style (even though I do not wear suits that often anymore).

IMO, Fashion ≠ Style. Fashion is in the name, which in my experience is a reliable indicator that style isn't the focus. To each his/her own.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

IMO, Fashion ≠ Style. Fashion is in the name, which in my experience is a reliable indicator that style isn't the focus. To each his/her own.

I am not sure your definitions are correct.

As defined by Merriam-Webster:
Fashion:
(1): the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time
/The spring fashions are now on display.
(2): a garment in such a style
/always wears the latest fashions

Style:
(4): a distinctive quality, form, or type of something
/a new dress style
/the Greek style of architecture
(5) a: the state of being popular : FASHION
/clothes that are always in style
b: fashionable elegance
c: beauty, grace, or ease of manner or technique
/an awkward moment she handled with style

As defined by Dictionary.com:
fashion
noun
1. a popular trend, especially in styles of dress and ornament or manners of behavior.
"his hair is cut in the latest fashion"

style
noun
2. a distinctive appearance, typically determined by the principles according to which something is designed.
"the pillars are no exception to the general style"
a particular design of clothing.
"his shoes were in a style that he could wear anywhere"
a way of arranging the hair.
"for a glamorous style, hair was brushed out after setting"

 

[MrOxford]

If you are talking about the official Alden commando sole, it is an integrated leather/rubber piece that needs to be entirely removed and a new one stitched on. Similarly, Allen Edmond's V-Tap sole is stitched on. In the pictures, it appears to be a separate leather sole and Vibram sole protector stitched-on together.

Many cobblers are able to create something similar to what you see in the pictures you quoted, using a leather sole and rubber sole protectors. The cobbler can stitch-on the sole protectors which would need a full resole when they wear out or they can glue-on the sole protectors which can be replaced without needing a full resole. It really depends on if the sole stitching happens "pre" or "post" sole protector installation. Many cobblers suggest glue them on afterward so they can be easily replaced but many customers like the "stitched thorough" look and want more durability (especially on boots but probably not necessary on shoes).

Thanks for your comments. I would certainly opt for the sole protector with stitches: more economical.

 

[MrOxford]

IMHO, 40 Over Fashion should not be espousing trends and styles that are meant for 20 and 30 year old's. While men over 40 should be stylish, the main point is to dress your age which by most classic style rules means "even more classic" the older you get. Watch a few of his videos and you will notice most of his wardrobe is what I would consider trendy, meant for younger men, often tacky, and overall not stylish (or classic). I do not think RMRS or any of the "menfluential" people are any better especially when it comes to style for men over 40.

Style is individual and personal so what I might consider "tacky" others might consider "stylish" and what I might consider "classic" others might find "fuddy duddy" (to use a term that was brought up here recently).

I am over 40 and tend to follow people such as Alan Flusser, Ralph Lauren, Simon Crompton - Permanent Style, and Bernhard Roetzel who are about classic men's style (even though I do not wear suits that often anymore).

I think fashion designer Tom Ford said it best. Paraphasing: "Wear your own combination of clothing to create your own unique style. Don't COPY exactly what the runway model is wearing down the catwalk. "

Listen at the 2 minute mark, after the lady's question.

 

[madhat]

I am not sure your definitions are correct.

As defined by Merriam-Webster:
Fashion:
(1): the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time
/The spring fashions are now on display.
(2): a garment in such a style
/always wears the latest fashions

Style:
(4): a distinctive quality, form, or type of something
/a new dress style
/the Greek style of architecture
(5) a: the state of being popular : FASHION
/clothes that are always in style
b: fashionable elegance
c: beauty, grace, or ease of manner or technique
/an awkward moment she handled with style

As defined by Dictionary.com:
fashion
noun
1. a popular trend, especially in styles of dress and ornament or manners of behavior.
"his hair is cut in the latest fashion"

style
noun
2. a distinctive appearance, typically determined by the principles according to which something is designed.
"the pillars are no exception to the general style"
a particular design of clothing.
"his shoes were in a style that he could wear anywhere"
a way of arranging the hair.
"for a glamorous style, hair was brushed out after setting"

I bet you’re fun at parties.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

Thanks for your comments. I would certainly opt for the sole protector with stitches: more economical.

Actually, it is the other way around, glued-on sole protectors are more economical because when they wear out you do not need a full resole and is costs anywhere from $55 to $75 to replace just the sole protectors. If you have the sole protectors stitched-on, then you need a full resole (aka leather soles and sole protectors are both replaced) when just the sole protectors wear out and need to be replaced which can cost $175 - $225. In either case, the leather sole lasts longer because the rubber sole protectors "protect" the leather sole. Often, most people can have 2-3 pairs of glued-on sole protectors replaced before they need a full resole.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

I bet you’re fun at parties.

Just because I like to be detailed and clear in my definitions does not mean I am not fun at parties. And for those who care, I am married to a high school English teacher which does not help the matter.

 

[stook1]

If you are talking about the official Alden commando sole, it is an integrated leather/rubber piece that needs to be entirely removed and a new one stitched on. Similarly, Allen Edmond's V-Tap sole is stitched on. In the pictures, it appears to be a separate leather sole and Vibram sole protector stitched-on together.

Many cobblers are able to create something similar to what you see in the pictures you quoted, using a leather sole and rubber sole protectors. The cobbler can stitch-on the sole protectors which would need a full resole when they wear out or they can glue-on the sole protectors which can be replaced without needing a full resole. It really depends on if the sole stitching happens "pre" or "post" sole protector installation. Many cobblers suggest glue them on afterward so they can be easily replaced but many customers like the "stitched thorough" look and want more durability (especially on boots but probably not necessary on shoes).

Alright, I feel the need to comment on this topic about stitching sole protectors because this remains one of the singularly more irritating experiences that I had with a local (read, not necessarily super reputable) cobbler that I had been trialing. My original intention was to do a resole on a pair of AEs but the cobbler was unable to source the sole I wanted so I instead elected to do a sole protector and defer the resole. The original soles were still intact so this seemed a reasonable medium term solution. However, since I had been originally discussing the resole, the cobbler for reasons unknown elected to stitch the sole protector.

Great idea, right? Wrong.

To do so, the cobbler tried to follow along the original welt stitching but did an, at best, mediocre job of doing so. The end result is a double layer of crappy looking stitching along the original welt. In the event of a full resole, I suspect that the end product would have looked pretty decent. But now I have two layers of stitching. It's just not that clean looking and it bugs the crap out of me every time I wear the shoes, which I seldom do at this point. Plus, if/when I DO actually elect to do a resole, I will now most likely need to also have them rewelted due to the imperfect 2nd row of stitching.

Don't stitch your sole protectors. With a really good cobbler, maybe, but in my view there is no functional benefit and it's not worth doing.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

Alright, I feel the need to comment on this topic about stitching sole protectors because this remains one of the singularly more irritating experiences that I had with a local (read, not necessarily super reputable) cobbler that I had been trialing. My original intention was to do a resole on a pair of AEs but the cobbler was unable to source the sole I wanted so I instead elected to do a sole protector and defer the resole. The original soles were still intact so this seemed a reasonable medium term solution. However, since I had been originally discussing the resole, the cobbler for reasons unknown elected to stitch the sole protector.

Great idea, right? Wrong.

To do so, the cobbler tried to follow along the original welt stitching but did an, at best, mediocre job of doing so. The end result is a double layer of crappy looking stitching along the original welt. In the event of a full resole, I suspect that the end product would have looked pretty decent. But now I have two layers of stitching. It's just not that clean looking and it bugs the crap out of me every time I wear the shoes, which I seldom do at this point. Plus, if/when I DO actually elect to do a resole, I will now most likely need to also have them rewelted due to the imperfect 2nd row of stitching.

Don't stitch your sole protectors. With a really good cobbler, maybe, but in my view there is no functional benefit and it's not worth doing.

You make some really good points but the most important one is: use a cobbler who is known to do good work.

I am sure you agree by your statements that the issue you encountered was not "stitched sole protectors" but rather inferior workmanship. Any competent cobbler would have removed the first set of stitches even if they decided to only replace the sole protectors but stitch them as well.

As to functional benefit, in some limited cases stitched sole protectors are more durable but in many cases it is unnecessary and simply increases replacement cost for no good reason.

 

[VeritasAequitas]

Just because I like to be detailed and clear in my definitions does not mean I am not fun at parties. And for those who care, I am married to a high school English teacher which does not help the matter.

No one cares

 

[NYCTechNerd]

No one cares

Well that was uncalled for and rude. You must be fun at parties too.

 

[VeritasAequitas]

Well that was uncalled for and rude. You must be fun at parties too.

Sorry man. I'm just kidding. We need a sarcasm font in the worst way.

 

[jet-stream]

I am not sure your definitions are correct.

As defined by Merriam-Webster:
Fashion:
(1): the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time
/The spring fashions are now on display.
(2): a garment in such a style
/always wears the latest fashions

Style:
(4): a distinctive quality, form, or type of something
/a new dress style
/the Greek style of architecture
(5) a: the state of being popular : FASHION
/clothes that are always in style
b: fashionable elegance
c: beauty, grace, or ease of manner or technique
/an awkward moment she handled with style

As defined by Dictionary.com:
fashion
noun
1. a popular trend, especially in styles of dress and ornament or manners of behavior.
"his hair is cut in the latest fashion"

style
noun
2. a distinctive appearance, typically determined by the principles according to which something is designed.
"the pillars are no exception to the general style"
a particular design of clothing.
"his shoes were in a style that he could wear anywhere"
a way of arranging the hair.
"for a glamorous style, hair was brushed out after setting"

The dictionary.com definitions look pretty good to me. “Trendy”and “put-together” (read: design principle) aren’t always the same.