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madhat

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Question about the 511 last and fit, since I've recently developed an interest in getting a PTB (maybe Leeds, maybe Gridiron). If the Dalton boot and a 511 closed-lacing oxford just barely fit in 8.5D with thin dress socks, do you think I ought to go with a 9D on the 511 last when wearing medium to thick wool socks for Fall/Winter/Spring?

The Dalton boots throat line (where lacing meets the vamp) was almost uncomfortably tight, and they always felt a little short in the toes.
The oxford is the Hampton, a wing-cap hybrid design, and the facings are still a bit far apart. The short toe feeling is more acceptable for these, but I wouldn't want that sensation in a PTB, which I'd wear for a more robust and casual option.

So: does anyone ever size up a half on the 511 last for thicker socks? Thanks!
It sounds like you need to move up either way if they are tight and a little short. I'd definitely move up from 8.5D to 9D. You may have a higher volume foot; the 511 isn't the most accommodating of that. No less than the 65 for sure, but it ain't no 2321.
 

munchau

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Bloor St.

C1F50CAD-1157-4ADB-A2DE-AB36980F83CE.jpeg
 

McQ7

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I wear my Dalton TTS even with thicker socks. I don't change sizes in the Leeds or Dalton. You may not have your exact size dialed in if you're having fit issues.

It sounds like you need to move up either way if they are tight and a little short. I'd definitely move up from 8.5D to 9D. You may have a higher volume foot; the 511 isn't the most accommodating of that. No less than the 65 for sure, but it ain't no 2321.

I appreciate the advice. For years I wore J&M dress shoes in 8.5, and I fit well in Alden's shell boots at JCrew in 8D with thin dress socks--medium socks on that boot and it was too tight in the throat area. That's on the Barrie last, and I could have gone 8.5 with medium or heavy socks. I've got some Indy boots in 8D that I have to wear medium or heavy socks to get a good fit because of the wide (to me) heel and ankle area, and some Viberg service boots on the 2030 last (goodyearwelt version) in 8D that fit more snugly and well with medium socks.
I think I might have a tall foot at the ball area but narrow heel to ankle area. Wish I had an AE store near me to try on. Anyway, thanks again!
 

Vocans

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general)? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

20181102_172444.jpg
 
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Thrift Couture

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general) ? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

View attachment 1064417
It looks nice with the flat welt. It makes the boot more sleek and refined. IMO.
 

ProfilaBinding

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I appreciate the advice. For years I wore J&M dress shoes in 8.5, and I fit well in Alden's shell boots at JCrew in 8D with thin dress socks--medium socks on that boot and it was too tight in the throat area. That's on the Barrie last, and I could have gone 8.5 with medium or heavy socks. I've got some Indy boots in 8D that I have to wear medium or heavy socks to get a good fit because of the wide (to me) heel and ankle area, and some Viberg service boots on the 2030 last (goodyearwelt version) in 8D that fit more snugly and well with medium socks.
I think I might have a tall foot at the ball area but narrow heel to ankle area. Wish I had an AE store near me to try on. Anyway, thanks again!

Based on what you said, you sound like an 8.5 D in the Leeds. The 511 is tricky for me because the heel is wide and the ball is average without a lot of volume. If the 8.5 D Leeds feels too narrow, you might try 8.5 E.
 

madhat

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general)? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

View attachment 1064417
That's easily done if they do a full resole/welt job.
It looks nice with the flat welt. It makes the boot more sleek and refined. IMO.
It can look good and less dressy at the same time; alden version below

20181009_125012.jpg
 

RMB35

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A great day at the hospital. Besides my wife’s inability to speak English she is in great shape for a women that I was supposed make arrangements for her funeral 10 years ago. Bad car crash with horrific damage to brain and body. Long story short she walks and talks, none of which any doctor thought possible.
That is such great news. Miracles can and do happen.
 

Thrift Couture

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My shell Higgins Mills are one of my favorite pairs of AEs but I've never been sold on how they look with a flat welt (even with JRs like mine has). The pattern, color and glorious PTB shell rolls seem more suited to split reverse. Has anyone had any luck having a pair of boots covered from a flat to a split reverse welt and care to make any recommendations on a good cobbler for the job (or care to talk me out of it in general)? Was thinking of going with BNelson in NYC.

View attachment 1064417
Check out Bedos Leatherworks. I call him the Shoe Sorcerer, everything he does is magical. Lbvs!
 

ProfilaBinding

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Interesting comment about the reverse welts. If I could, I would remove all the reverse welts on my shoes. They make the soles bigger than I want. Are there durability advantages to having a reverse welt, such as, will it handle winter weather better?
 

Vocans

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Interesting comment about the reverse welts. If I could, I would remove all the reverse welts on my shoes. They make the soles bigger than I want. Are there durability advantages to having a reverse welt, such as, will it handle winter weather better?

There's perhaps a very negligible weather resistance benefit to a reverse welt over a flat welt, but unlikely to make any noticeable difference in the real world. Largely boils down to a matter of preference.
 

M635Guy

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Well I did something weird. I noticed a pair of the hunter green Alden chukkas at a decent price and decided to grab them to compare to my MD Chukkas. They're not entirely what I hoped, but are decent. Going to be interesting to compare.

First Impressions: Clearly the MD chukkas have a more genuine olive tone where the olives are a darkish green. The sole, sole-edge and sole-finishing are pretty nice on the Aldens. Haven't had a chance to get through them much. Despite all that, the price for value on the MD chukkas is pretty amazing. Will give them both some wear next week...
 
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