HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

[phoenixrecon]

this thread needs new content

 

[black_umbrella]

it's just 5cm away

 

[XKxRome0ox]



I have come to trust mirror over camera in matters of color but camera over mirror in matters of fit.

this statement holds so much truth

 

[Kid Nickels]



I have come to trust mirror over camera in matters of color but camera over mirror in matters of fit.

this is like some Confucian analect of fashion..... tis true, I Love it!

 

[F. Corbera]



^ wow, thank you! I'm a bit tied up and can't give the proper verbal reply I'd like to, but here is a robot pose I didn't post yesterday if it helps clarify anything:

I do it out of love.

 

[F. Corbera]



This is interesting to me, in that Spoo's build, I suspect, is rather similar to mine. Yet the effect of our clothes is entirely different. But I'd put more emphasis on the role of the chest fullness than Vox has explicitly referenced. Spoo and I part ways from the get-go, in that the sort of narrow chest he has tended to favor is a deal-killer for me. I like a full chest, to accommodate the sort of crude waist-cinching Vox decries. But I don't want pulling at the button, and I don't care for artificial shoulder augmentation. So I've ended up with a sort of modified Trad look, knocking out the volume of the sack coat at the waist while preserving the shoulder. Perhaps my tastes are irreconcilable?

So, another guy like this if you think about it is Manton. He is another skinny dude but with a bit of width in across the bone on the hip. We stretch you, we get Spoo. We stretch Spoo, we get Manton.

He's an interesting example for guys built this way, especially since he has thrown quite a bit of knowledge and experimentation with bespoke tailors to get what he finds pleasing. And, they all involve room in the chest (among other things, of course.)

 

[DocHolliday]

How tall is Spoo?!?

 

[F. Corbera]



How tall is Spoo?!?

SF members are sized in 5cm increments, I am told.

 

[chogall]

hello mc. here's my country-city spectrum fail. I think it's a 9-8-4-3. worsted navy suit, broadcloth shirt, knit tie, suede loafers. geez, i need some plain black shoes.

Did you really set up a camera at the Embarcaderos?

So, another guy like this if you think about it is Manton. He is another skinny dude but with a bit of width in across the bone on the hip. We stretch you, we get Spoo. We stretch Spoo, we get Manton.
He's an interesting example for guys built this way, especially since he has thrown quite a bit of knowledge and experimentation with bespoke tailors to get what he finds pleasing. And, they all involve room in the chest (among other things, of course.)

someone need to make a meme w/ doc, spoo and manton. lol.

How tall is Spoo?!?

My guess is a bit over 6' with a build similar to a fit model.

 

[unbelragazzo]

 

[the shah]



i dont usually post here cuz i hate how i look in pics, but here goes anyways. hopefully my kid makes up for all i lack.

Spoiler

Spoiler: closer up

zegna overcoat
johnstons scarf
BB ocbd oxford
rlbl trousers
C&J edgwares

damn son i thought you were some scrawny white kid not al borland
dat zegna is nice

A few from the last few ... Spoiler tags to avoid photo overload

Spoiler

Deets ...

like a bawss

 

[SpooPoker]



Deets on tie, please.

Thanks, Cesare Attolini.

Robo pose confirms it, Spoo. I wouldn't make any adjustments, other than sleeve length.

Thanks, I don't think I will.

It's my job to read minds, remember? No, I guessed you'd be thinking of it based on how you tend to like your clothes, which why I pre-emptively argued against it upthread. My reasons are much simpler and less articulate than vox's, though I think equally valid: the jacket looks proportionally comfortable on you as it already is. Don't **** around with something that already looks right; it almost never results in incremental improvement.

Duly noted. Now give me that coat.

Spoo and I part ways from the get-go...

We converged once, Le Roi.

I'm with Vox on this. Doesn't need waist suppression. Do you normally have a dropped left shoulder? Or was that just the pose.

Just a ****** SpooPose.

I do it out of love.

How "structured" a shoulder has no direct relation to how it "looks" specifically on a static jacket. A heavily padded/shoulder can look "natural" or square...when the man isn't moving.
A completely unstructured, upadded shoulder can also look "natural" or square...based on, guess what? what the actual shoulder underneath is.
A man with a healthy, natural drop, with even and slightly sloped shoulders, can wear pretty much anything. A man who is a beanpole (or a pineapple) can be tailored to look approximately the same when completely still. The minute that heavily augmented man moves, however, and goes about the business of the day, those shoulders will look like ping pong tables on either side of his neck, rocking to and fro, queasily independent of his body.
The subterfuge, then, is up. It is obvious to the world that you have no game: instead, you have padding, like a padded bra or pants with the ass foam inserts (cue Barry Manilow reference.)
A particularly humorous account of this phenomena is given unconsciously by Reevolving in his sports bar thread, in which he regales us on the reaction of a woman when he puts his elbows up on the back of a bar stool.
Am I biased and exaggerating? Of course. I do so to make my point clear.
Now, getting back to Spoo for a second, many of you seemed to have daydreamed up a concept of his physique which contradicts his own description of his height and weight. He is slim, even skinny. He is not at an athletic weight (strong like LA Guy), although being slim is great for the sport of wearing tailored clothes. Many of his jackets swim at the shoulders, are constricted in the chest, and are too tight at the waist. The human torso is not naturally a round cylinder; so too with Spoo. He's well-shouldered, thin waisted, but also somewhat wide-hipped (bones, not the 5cm pizza problem.) That is what you are seeing revealed in the jacket from yesterday.
If you square out his shoulders to balance the hips, you have succeeded in one dimension and in a static pose. Your success, however, compromises everything else. If you bring in the middle at the side seams to exaggerate this effect further, then the jacket will not be (or will be less often) fluid on the torso when buttoned. It will "stick" like a lifesaver around your belly.
Instead, if you take the basic form of yesterday's jacket, widen the lapels toward the notch, lower the gorge, shorten the jacket, and cut open the fronts more, you would probably accomplish everything needed to balance shoulders-to-hips while still retaining the fluidity of the jacket. You've all seen this kind of cut before because it is all over the Internet in the form of the Liverano stuff that Cho and Crew carry (or facilliate when it is bespoke) and from several other makers like NSM, etc.
As for your last point about purposefully misfitting things to make it more "interesting," I really have no reaction to that point of view since it implies nothing can be wrong or right. If that really really is the belief system that has captured this thread and the Mens Clothing forum in general, then no wonder some of us feel alienated from it.

So, another guy like this if you think about it is Manton. He is another skinny dude but with a bit of width in across the bone on the hip. We stretch you, we get Spoo. We stretch Spoo, we get Manton.
He's an interesting example for guys built this way, especially since he has thrown quite a bit of knowledge and experimentation with bespoke tailors to get what he finds pleasing. And, they all involve room in the chest (among other things, of course.)

How tall is Spoo?!?

6'1, 165lbs usually, the holidays caught me up to 175.

someone need to make a meme w/ doc, spoo and manton. lol.

would REALLY like to see that.

 

[ctp120]



6'1, 165lbs usually

Interesting. Me too, though we seem to be shaped a bit differently.

 

[SpooPoker]



Interesting. Me too, though we seem to be shaped a bit differently.

You seem much more narrow shouldered, more "Manton".

 

[mktitsworth]

Well damn. I was all set to throw up some outlined photos which might highlight some of the contrast between the spoo-jacket-under-discussion and the one he posted today, but this thing seems to have resolved itself and moved on in the time that took...